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Pretty great—best 24mm equivalent I’ve used.

Found in a fern garden in the side yard.
Not a clue what kind but to me it looked like an orb.

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2jP6​BWq

MedicineMan4040 wrote in post #19126531
I think you scored the premier copy of this lens on planet Earth!

Couldn’t agree more. Mine is pretty sharp but not at 400mm. This copy is insane! Don’t let this lens out of your sight, Aladyforty. You do some great work with it.

Went exploring on some backroads yesterday and found several interesting subjects. These are just a couple.

HaroldC3 wrote in post #19134025
Went exploring on some backroads yesterday and found several interesting subjects. These are just a couple.

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Hosted photo: posted by HaroldC3 in
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these need to also be posted in the "old buildings" thread.
excellent images

Rainy day in Florida

I'm already having so much fun with the 16mm.

OoDee wrote in post #19133571
Just came home with the 16/1.4. And now I realize how much I've been missing the 24mm equivalent.

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My favorite FL in the 'wides'. You'll enjoy I'm sure.

Great framing/Timing!

Tomorrow I have to go to a gallery and produce a 360º flowing tour in HTML5 for embedding on their site. Thats something I've not done before so looking forward to the challenge, I have done loads of multi row panos using my pano head but never a 360 one. Lots of youtube tonight I fear

Two Hot Shoes wrote in post #19135017
Tomorrow I have to go to a gallery and produce a 360º flowing tour in HTML5 for embedding on their site. Thats something I've not done before so looking forward to the challenge, I have done loads of multi row panos using my pano head buy never a 360 one. Lots of youtube tonight I fear

Take a minute to figure out the no-parallax point of your camera/lens combination on your pano head - this will save you hours of headache down the road once you start stitching.

https://youtu.be/zEgLg​ReARxs

Level your camera, set everything on manual after you have taken exposure readings across the entire space, fix your white balance to a static setting, fix your manual focus and aperture to get the depth of field you need. Shoot with the same segmentation (angle and number of images at each angle) for each series of photos (depends on the lens you use - I have used the Zeiss 12mm and the Fujifilm 16mm on the X-H1 and X-Pro3) and make sure you get sufficient overlap between images and image rows. It also helps to use a remote release so that you do not have to touch the camera and perturb its level, etc.

Use small JPEGs as proxy images when stitching in PTGui and make a template from the proxy stitch and then apply the template to the full-res images.

Make a good nadir image after you have shot your entire sequence so you can completely remove the tripod. PTGui has a feature that lets you tell it that the nadir image has been taken after the camera has been moved relative to the position it was in for the rest of the sequence.

Making a spherical panoramic image in a tight space like an interior requires good image acquisition hygiene, so to speak. Being careful during set up and image acquisition will save you a lot of time on the post-processing end for sure. The PTGui website has a good set of video tutorials on the process as well:

https://www.ptgui.com/​videotutorials.html

Good luck and have fun! When you make a good spherical panoramic image and view it in an immersive viewer, it is really satisfying!

Kirk

Thanks for the links, I'm well up on the multi row bit so the parallax and nodal is good, it's the 360 thing that had me as that's totally new so I'll have a good dig about those links for sure. My pano gimbal has a fairly big 'foot' so I'm thinking it'll be a bit too big and might just shoot an extra plate to I can mask out the tripod/head etc.. before I build the 360 up. Trying to think of any hiccups before I go shoot to avoid having to do any pickups.

Yeah - you want to shoot a straight up (zenith) and a straight down (nadir) shot from the pano head - I actually shoot two of each, rotating the head 180 degrees between shots. When you are completely finished and feel confident that you have captured everything with the pano head in place, move the tripod and shoot down at the location on the floor where the tripod was to get the shot that will patch out the tripod and pano head. I often will put some small markers on the floor area to mark the tripod legs (in case I have to go back and pick up shots) but also around the area of the tripod to use as targets for matching and stitching - these can easily be spot healed out of the final image. This is because flooring is often uniform with few unique and easy to find features to match for the nadir editing. Same with uniform areas on walls, etc. where an entire segment of the pano will have very few features to help the stitch.

kirk

Can't decide which one of these I like better... both from the X-H1 and Rokinon 12mm

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2jN8​PZf

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2jN4​Soo