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Thread started 14 Jan 2013 (Monday) 03:02
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500mm on a motorized barn door tracker?

 
KingRiver
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Feb 13, 2013 14:40 |  #16

Update; recieved the Celestron Logic Drive and .... what a disapointment! Wayyyyyyy to slow rpm's on this drive. It's like 5-6 minutes/1 rpm. Trying to mod it and if that fails I'm gonna look for a stepper motor and add a speedcontrol.


EOS 60D = Sigma EX 10-20/4,0-5,6 DC HSM = Sigma 17-70/2,8-4,0 DC OS HSM = EF 50 1.8 II = Helios 44-2 F/2

  
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NavyDiver911
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Feb 14, 2013 14:11 |  #17

Wow that looks amazing. Keep us updated with the progress. I'm very interested in the finished product!


Gripped Canon 6D | 24-105mm f4L| Samyang 14mm f2.8 | Canon SX40 HS w/CHDK.
http://www.youtube.com …NavyDiver911?fe​ature=mhee (external link)
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calypsob
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Feb 16, 2013 01:54 |  #18

KingRiver wrote in post #15606482 (external link)
Update; recieved the Celestron Logic Drive and .... what a disapointment! Wayyyyyyy to slow rpm's on this drive. It's like 5-6 minutes/1 rpm. Trying to mod it and if that fails I'm gonna look for a stepper motor and add a speedcontrol.

that slow even turned up all the way? I would call celestron on that or send it back. I have one that came from a cheap zhummell and it works the way it should


Wes
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Gear: Many gears Yes.

  
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KingRiver
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Feb 17, 2013 09:09 |  #19

calypsob wrote in post #15615456 (external link)
that slow even turned up all the way? I would call celestron on that or send it back. I have one that came from a cheap zhummell and it works the way it should

Yes, its that slow even turned up to max. As I read in another forum - "Upon receipt, examination of the motor drive revealed that it is of the continuously-variable type, capable of speeds from 1/20 rpm to 1/6 rpm inclusive, with the ability to reverse rotation. It is supplied with two brackets, as well as a somewhat flexible coupling for the drive shaft. Power is supplied by a single 9-volt battery "
That's my experience also. Tried to raise the voltage in steps of 0.5V to 12 volts directly to motor with no success....same speeds. You simply would have to dismantle the gearbox and exchange the gears inside. Thats if you find anything that suits. I'd rather sell it and look for a stepper motor with speed control unit. Looking for a simple,suitable control unit atm. There are some small,6V driven and 1rpm/min motors on Ebay but then you are stuck at that rpm with no chance to set rpm according to focallength.


EOS 60D = Sigma EX 10-20/4,0-5,6 DC HSM = Sigma 17-70/2,8-4,0 DC OS HSM = EF 50 1.8 II = Helios 44-2 F/2

  
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SteveInNZ
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Feb 17, 2013 12:58 |  #20

The Celestron one is working the way it should. It's intended for a mount with a 1:144 worm gear for the final drive. A day is 1440 minutes long so the motor output should turn at 1 rev every 10 minutes.
Even if you get a stepper motor drive, it will still need gearing so you're bypassing the real issue which is knowing what speed you actually want. You need to work that out using the distance from the hinge to your threaded rod and how many threads per inch/cm your rod is. The rate is the same, regardless of the lens you put on it ie. 1 rev per day at the camera. Once you know what rate you need at the rod, then you can go shopping for a gearhead motor that suits.

If the math isn't your thing, post up the numbers and someone here will work it out for you.


"Treat every photon with respect" - David Malin.

  
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KingRiver
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Feb 17, 2013 13:30 |  #21

SteveInNZ wrote in post #15620094 (external link)
The Celestron one is working the way it should. It's intended for a mount with a 1:144 worm gear for the final drive. A day is 1440 minutes long so the motor output should turn at 1 rev every 10 minutes.
Even if you get a stepper motor drive, it will still need gearing so you're bypassing the real issue which is knowing what speed you actually want. You need to work that out using the distance from the hinge to your threaded rod and how many threads per inch/cm your rod is. The rate is the same, regardless of the lens you put on it ie. 1 rev per day at the camera. Once you know what rate you need at the rod, then you can go shopping for a gearhead motor that suits.

If the math isn't your thing, post up the numbers and someone here will work it out for you.

-Never said it was broken or not working as it should. It just don't fit my needs.


EOS 60D = Sigma EX 10-20/4,0-5,6 DC HSM = Sigma 17-70/2,8-4,0 DC OS HSM = EF 50 1.8 II = Helios 44-2 F/2

  
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neimad19
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Feb 17, 2013 21:25 |  #22

SteveInNZ wrote in post #15620094 (external link)
If the math isn't your thing, post up the numbers and someone here will work it out for you.

I'm also in the middle of building a barn door mount out of wood with a synchro .8 rpm motor and spent the last few hours scouring the net for information about them.

I turned up this handy formula for working out the maths behind it all.

R=RPM/(0.004375*tpi) where 'R' is distance between the centre of the hinge and the hole for the drive screw and 'tpi' is threads per inch on the lead screw.




  
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the ­ jimmy
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Feb 18, 2013 06:28 |  #23

neimad19 wrote in post #15621835 (external link)
I turned up this handy formula for working out the maths behind it all.

R=RPM/(0.004375*tpi) where 'R' is distance between the centre of the hinge and the hole for the drive screw and 'tpi' is threads per inch on the lead screw.

Chcecking this against Gary Seronik's (external link) site he has a 4 RPM motor, 32 TPI drive bolt and 7.14 from the hinge to the drive bolt

7.14=4/(.004375*32)
7.14=4/(.14)
7.14=28.572

Not sure if I have missed something here.




  
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neimad19
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Feb 18, 2013 14:19 |  #24

the jimmy wrote in post #15622701 (external link)
Chcecking this against Gary Seronik's (external link) site he has a 4 RPM motor, 32 TPI drive bolt and 7.14 from the hinge to the drive bolt

7.14=4/(.004375*32)
7.14=4/(.14)
7.14=28.572

Not sure if I have missed something here.

Under the paragraph "The Drive and Electronics" he explains that he uses a set of gears to reduce the 4 RPM down to 1 RPM at the drive bolt

Radius = 1(which is the rpm at the drive screw after the gears)/(.004375*32)
R = 7.14




  
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neimad19
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Feb 18, 2013 14:21 |  #25

I probably should have mentioned that "RPM" is measured at the drive screw after the gearing. Not straight from the motor. Unless your direct driving your mount with a really slow motor without gears




  
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the ­ jimmy
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Feb 18, 2013 15:56 |  #26

neimad19 wrote in post #15624128 (external link)
Under the paragraph "The Drive and Electronics" he explains that he uses a set of gears to reduce the 4 RPM down to 1 RPM at the drive bolt

Radius = 1(which is the rpm at the drive screw after the gears)/(.004375*32)
R = 7.14

Good catch, I went over this several times, B4 coffee :o




  
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calypsob
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Feb 19, 2013 14:24 |  #27

KingRiver wrote in post #15619339 (external link)
Yes, its that slow even turned up to max. As I read in another forum - "Upon receipt, examination of the motor drive revealed that it is of the continuously-variable type, capable of speeds from 1/20 rpm to 1/6 rpm inclusive, with the ability to reverse rotation. It is supplied with two brackets, as well as a somewhat flexible coupling for the drive shaft. Power is supplied by a single 9-volt battery "
That's my experience also. Tried to raise the voltage in steps of 0.5V to 12 volts directly to motor with no success....same speeds. You simply would have to dismantle the gearbox and exchange the gears inside. Thats if you find anything that suits. I'd rather sell it and look for a stepper motor with speed control unit. Looking for a simple,suitable control unit atm. There are some small,6V driven and 1rpm/min motors on Ebay but then you are stuck at that rpm with no chance to set rpm according to focallength.

I'm sorry to hear that the motor is not living up to what you had hoped it would be. This site is really good for finding low rpm motor parts and gears. You may even be able to find an appropriate worm gear which in turn could be paired with the appropriate main gear to rotate the barndoor thread at the right speed http://www.servocity.c​om/ (external link) . After reading Steve's comment I realized what he was talking about. Looking at my old cheap EQ mount, the motor drive is connected to a worm gear and the gear for the DEC axis is fitted on top of the worm gear so I am guessing the teeth on the DEC axis are numbered appropriately to match a formula with the worm gear and output speed of the drive motor.


Wes
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Gear: Many gears Yes.

  
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calypsob
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Feb 20, 2013 00:23 |  #28

I was browsing servo city again and came across this, may be of interest if you can apply the formula to this design, only $20 more than the celestron drive you purchased http://www.servocity.c​om …haft_worm_drive​_gear.html (external link)


Wes
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flickr (external link)
Gear: Many gears Yes.

  
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KingRiver
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Feb 20, 2013 14:06 |  #29

calypsob wrote in post #15630548 (external link)
I was browsing servo city again and came across this, may be of interest if you can apply the formula to this design, only $20 more than the celestron drive you purchased http://www.servocity.c​om …haft_worm_drive​_gear.html (external link)

-Thank you. Will have a look....still considering other solutions.


EOS 60D = Sigma EX 10-20/4,0-5,6 DC HSM = Sigma 17-70/2,8-4,0 DC OS HSM = EF 50 1.8 II = Helios 44-2 F/2

  
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calypsob
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Feb 20, 2013 16:16 as a reply to  @ KingRiver's post |  #30

Celestron also makes a motor setup for the EQ4 which is considerably more money than the smaller eq motor http://www.celestron.c​om …e-da-for-cg-4-mounts.html (external link) but you would be stuck with an unusable ra motor


Wes
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Gear: Many gears Yes.

  
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500mm on a motorized barn door tracker?
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