Canon T3 + Right Lens good enough for hoops?

Obviously a new poster here, so forgive me if this has been addressed a little bit in the past. I've done some reading on the board and have a general idea of the answer to my question, but I figured it'd be more direct to come out and ask.

I work as a freelance journalist, and most of my work is as a writer. But I also take photos, mostly of sporting events. I'd like to get into it more and have a fair understanding of photography, especially when it comes to exposure and lighting.

The problem is my budget. I'd prefer to get a moderate body with good glass, but my wallet isn't as cooperative.

With the T4i out, I've been hoping the T3i or even T2i would come down in price. But I've seen them mostly priced within $50-75 of each other.

But I've found a couple decent deals with the T3. Everything I've read suggests that the T3 and T3i are similar except for the megapixels and a slightly older sensor in the T3, along some additional features that don't necessarily mean much to me.

Here's the question: Can I get by shooting above average basketball photos with the T3, a kit EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens and something like a Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Standard AutoFocus Lens? I can get right down on the baseline, so proximity isn't an issue. But it's below average light and no flash capabilities in the gym.

I can get that set-up for the price of a T3i body, hence the appeal.

I realize every gym is different. The good news is I shoot at the same locations every time, so I can dial it in from there. But any insight would be much appreciated.

Yes, the Rebels will do fine for basketball, but my biggest concern with the T3 is that it maxes out at ISO 6400 with no expansion.

Forget about using the kit lens, especially in a gym. The 50/1.8 is great value for it's price (~$75), but if possible, keep an eye out for the 85/1.8 (~$300 used). And for field sports in the Spring, keep an eye out for a good deal (~$175) on the 55-250mm IS.

I bought a T1i as a 2nd body when they first came out years ago, and it did fine in the gym...

1. T1i, ISO 6400, 85mm, f/1.8

I use a 50d at ISO 6400 f/2.8 and 1/640 sec. for basketball. Our gym has great lighting for high school basketball.

My photos show motion blur at anything below 1/500 sec. Our bleachers are too close to use my 70-200mm lens behind the basket unless the bleachers have been pushed against the end wall. A focal length of 70mm and longer works from near the corner.

You stated that your gym is "below average light." I am guessing you will need at least ISO 6400 and f/2 to get a relatively fast shutter speed - 1/640 sec. preferred.

Recommendation: 85mm f/1.8 lens unless there is limited room at the ends in which case you might need a 50mm lens to shoot under the basket. An 85mm lens works fine when shooting from the corner. Camera - get the best you can afford. High ISO capability is extremely important, if not a necessity, for action shots in less than ideal light.

New T3i for $529 plus new 85mm f/1.8 for $359 totals $888 Get the 18-55mm lens as part of a kit and $1,000 is history. Then get a telephoto zoom lens, then a flash, then a ____ and a ____and a____, etc. Ouch!

I always recommend a budget of at least $1,000 for someone getting into SLR photography. It is not an absolute necessity but that number is reached (and passed) quicker than most people can ever imagine. No one said this is a cheap hobby.

The EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS lens is not a good choice for indoor sports. It is okay as a starter, general purpose lens.

Don't let me discourage you. Take your time, start with basic gear, practice, develop your skills, have a rigid savings plan. Save twenty dollars per week and you will have $1,040 in one year. You can acquire some really good gear in less than two years. You do not need top-of-the-line equipment to get great photos.

This is great: https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=414088

EagleMorph wrote in post #15488802
Obviously a new poster here, so forgive me if this has been addressed a little bit in the past. I've done some reading on the board and have a general idea of the answer to my question, but I figured it'd be more direct to come out and ask.

I work as a freelance journalist, and most of my work is as a writer. But I also take photos, mostly of sporting events. I'd like to get into it more and have a fair understanding of photography, especially when it comes to exposure and lighting.

The problem is my budget. I'd prefer to get a moderate body with good glass, but my wallet isn't as cooperative.

With the T4i out, I've been hoping the T3i or even T2i would come down in price. But I've seen them mostly priced within $50-75 of each other.

But I've found a couple decent deals with the T3. Everything I've read suggests that the T3 and T3i are similar except for the megapixels and a slightly older sensor in the T3, along some additional features that don't necessarily mean much to me.

Here's the question: Can I get by shooting above average basketball photos with the T3, a kit EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens and something like a Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Standard AutoFocus Lens? I can get right down on the baseline, so proximity isn't an issue. But it's below average light and no flash capabilities in the gym.

I can get that set-up for the price of a T3i body, hence the appeal.

I realize every gym is different. The good news is I shoot at the same locations every time, so I can dial it in from there. But any insight would be much appreciated.

Available-light basketball from a Canon T2i.

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Eagle, since you'll be shooting pretty much in only one gym, I'd suggest finding out what your ISO need is in that gym using f/2 at 1/640 and see if it is at or below ISO 6400. Then you'll know if that body and a 50 f/1.8 will work for you. My best HS gym I'm at f/2.9, 1/640 at ISO 3200 for basketball. Next school over I'm at ISO 8000. Another school (with old pot lights) I'm at 12-16k ISO. I think you really need to see what you'll need in that gym before spending your hard earned money.

If you have access to a light meeter that would be your best bet in determining what you'll need in that gym. If not as any photog that shows up what his settings are. Or if you have a DSLS you can see what your shutter speed is using the highest ISO at the largest aperture. From there you can estimate what your ISO is at 1/640 or 1/800 but the number of stops you'll need to up your ISO to get the shutter you require. You should be withing a 1/3rd of a stop of estimating that buy just doing the math.

dwarrenr wrote in post #15490731
If you have access to a light meter that would be your best bet in determining what you'll need in that gym

Maybe I should have mentioned that this light meter has been very useful in getting incident readings at basketball games to determine the correct exposure settings, including the ones used in the above examples. Not everyone on this forum likes the use of light meters at basketball games, however.

DC Fan wrote in post #15492234
this light meter... to determine the correct exposure settings

Not everyone on this forum likes the use of light meters at basketball games, however.

Agreed... there are dozens of things the OP should consider before spending $200 on a light meter. There are hundreds of examples in this forum that clearly illustrate that an external meter does not improve an image any more than can be done with the camera's meter. External meters are very useful when doing manual strobing, but for ambient gym shooting, save the gadgets for later.

Especially since his budget is extremely tight. I'd rather see him learn to use the meter in the camera to determine an adequate manual exposure. And then practice timing and composition.

If/when additional funds become available, IMHO better glass and even an upgraded body should be considered before spending money on an external meter.

clarence wrote in post #15492372
If/when additional funds become available, IMHO better glass and even an upgraded body should be considered before spending money on an external meter.

Exactly.

DC Fan wrote in post #15490655
Available-light basketball from a Canon T2i.
With the correct lenses, settings and technique, any current Canon DSLR can easily capture indoor basketball. The key to these examples was the use of a Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 lens. One sort of 70-200mm f/2.8 (and there are currently six lenses with that specification available for Canon EF EOS cameras) is the basic available light coverage lens for any indoor sport.

That was my hope. I went deep into looking at the bodies and I didn't see enough of a difference to help with a decision. I've always been taught that technique, settings, and lenses meant significantly more to the quality of a photo than anything else (within reason, of course), but I was taught that on 35mm. Some things translate to digital, some don't.

I know a lot of this will come down to experimentation and adding to my lens library. I'm patient in that regard.

It's hard to tell solely from photos, but the examples in this thread look like similarly constructed gyms with a similar light set-up to mine. I'm encouraged, and I think I'm going to go ahead with the T3, the kit lens, and a 50mm f/1.8 lens to start. Considering I can get all of that from Adorama for the price of a T3I or even T2I body, I think it's a reasonable starting point.

Thanks for the insight, everyone.

clarence wrote in post #15492372
If/when additional funds become available, IMHO better glass and even an upgraded body should be considered before spending money on an external meter.

That's the plan, clarence. This is kind of like a cycle. The hope is that jumping into this helps bring in a little more money, which can then be turned around into better gear.

Of course, that's all subject to the ol' "the best laid plans of mice and men..." yada, yada, yada.

If the ISO fits the lighting, per D. Warren, consider a used T2i for $300-$350, then look at the 50 f/1.8 and and 85 f/1.8, both used.

Also keep in my the t3 frames per second is 3 you might need more if you are shooting sports

rockdog63 wrote in post #15494099
Also keep in my the t3 frames per second is 3 you might need more if you are shooting sports

Being able to shoot bursts is handy, but not essential for most sports photography. And IMO unless you can get to 6 fps minimum and more realistically 8, then the actual maximum fps doesn't matter too much.

There are no cameras near the OP's price point that will approach 6, so 3 is fine. The OP will have to shoot by anticipation and good timing, which is what most people do for most of the shots in sports anyway.

For the OP, I really recommend either an 85/1.8 or a 50/1.4 over the 50/1.8 II. The 50/1.8 II has such poor AF performance that I think you will find it to be a large handicap in getting photos in focus.

JeffreyG wrote in post #15497426
Being able to shoot bursts is handy, but not essential for most sports photography. And IMO unless you can get to 6 fps minimum and more realistically 8, then the actual maximum fps doesn't matter too much.

There are no cameras near the OP's price point that will approach 6, so 3 is fine. The OP will have to shoot by anticipation and good timing, which is what most people do for most of the shots in sports anyway.

For the OP, I really recommend either an 85/1.8 or a 50/1.4 over the 50/1.8 II. The 50/1.8 II has such poor AF performance that I think you will find it to be a large handicap in getting photos in focus.

Actually a 30D is 5fps which is really close to 6 fps and you can usually pick up a 30D for about $200-$250 and a 85f/1.8 for $200(if you look for good deals)-$300 and I would say if you can expand your budget this would be a great starter package

T2iGuy wrote in post #15498528
Actually a 30D is 5fps which is really close to 6 fps and you can usually pick up a 30D for about $200-$250

But a 30D only goes up to ISO 3200(H) and that's with expansion... VERY noisy. It really needs to stay at 1600 max, which is not sufficient for most gyms.

http://www.dpreview.co​m …00d&products=ca​non_eos30d

In 2009 when I had to choose between keeping my T1i or my 40D, I kept the T1i, mainly because of the better ISO. Plus, NR in PP does better when it has more pixels to work with.

I would not choose the 30D just to go from 3fps to 5fps. IMHO, high fps is over rated. Just time your shot, don't spray and pray.