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FORUMS Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon Lenses 
Thread started 23 Jan 2013 (Wednesday) 10:01
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Noob question

 
5W0L3
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Jan 23, 2013 10:01 |  #1

This is coming from a person who has never used a macro lens before...

How important is the macro ring flash if someone wishes to get into macro photography?.. mainly looking for ring shots (for weddings), detail shots, and sometimes going out in my spare time and taking photos on insects, water drops etc.

is spending $$ on a macro ring flash (14EX) worth it? or do you guys normally bounce flash indoors and use no flash outdoors for macro work?


Manav
5D III x 2 (gripped) | 35L | 85L II | 100L | 24-70mm IIL | 70-200mm IIL | Some strobes & some speedlights.
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dpds68
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Jan 23, 2013 10:55 |  #2

I use my flash with a Flash Bender for Macro .

David


Gripped Canon 7D,20D,XT / Tamron 17-50mm 2.8, Canon 85mm f1.8 , 70-200 2.8L,EF50mm1.8 II,Sigma 150-500mm OS, Sigma 105mm 2.8 Macro, Sigma 10-20mm 4-5.6
Vivitar285Hv x2,Canon430EX,Nissin Di866,CTR-301P Triggers,
http://www.flickr.com/​photos/dpds68/ (external link)

  
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amfoto1
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Jan 23, 2013 10:56 |  #3

Actually, I'm not a big fan of macro ring flash at "normal" macro or the most commonly used magnifications. To me, even with multiple light sources that can be individually adjusted offered by some ringlites, they just give too flat and "scientific" lighting when used for up to around 1:1, maybe 2:1 magnification. I do like a ringlite for higher magnification work (higher mags than most people do and higher than most lenses are capable of doing on their own).

I prefer using a twin flash (such as Canon MT 24EX shown below). They allow more flexibility... a greater difference or lighting ratio between the main and fill lights.

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7032/6772188683_6e378013e8_z.jpg

The flash heads on the twinlite shown are mounted on a Lepp/Stoboframe dual flash bracket (no longer made, unfortunately) instead of the the mount Canon provides, which is shown separately in the photo and clips onto the front of Canon macro lenses (different sizes are needed for some lenses... flash comes with one to fit 58mm filter thread lenses such as the 100/2.8 USM/non-L/IS). I prefer the Lepp/Strobo bracket because it allows a whole lot more separation of the flash heads as well as a lot more flexibility positioning them.

However, you don't really need to go to the expense of a macro flash at all, unless you really want to.

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7033/6772540431_47da554ceb_z.jpg

A single speedlite can do quite well... For example, all of the images below were done with a single 550EX (setup very similar to the 580EXII shown above):

IMAGE: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5007/5310747604_8897684f22_o.jpg

IMAGE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8223/8304735606_ccaa8d309a_c.jpg

IMAGE: http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6201/6143768203_0c2819c423_o.jpg

In all three I used the 550EX on an off-camera shoe cord. I think in all three I also used a couple layers of white gauze bandage over the flash tube, held in place with a rubber band, to reduce the flash's output and diffuse it a bit. This acts like a large softbox in the sky, to smaller subjects like these.

The two praying mantis shots are more "full flash" (so that the background would go black, it was a rather busy tangle of leaves). Using a single, slightly diffused flash like this, the light tends to bounce and "wrap" around, so I didn't need a second fill flash. It is possible to use a second flash (with an optical trigger or something like that). Or, it's possible to bounce some fill off a white card or metallic reflector.

The flash was handheld fairly high and off to one side to simulate natural lighting, yet give some nice shadows. Camera and lens (100mm macro) were also handheld, but resting on an unside down, empty 5 gallon paint bucket.

The garden spider was lighter fill flash, to retain the background. No bounce and the flash was held to more directly throw light onto the subject. Camera and lens (70-200/2.8 with 25mm extension tube) were on a tripod. I am not certain I used the gauze bandage trick on this image, since it's fill flash. I might have used the wide angle panel instead.

Alan Myers (external link) "Walk softly and carry a big lens."
5DII, 7DII, 7D, M5 & others. 10-22mm, Meike 12/2.8,Tokina 12-24/4, 20/2.8, EF-M 22/2, TS 24/3.5L, 24-70/2.8L, 28/1.8, 28-135 IS (x2), TS 45/2.8, 50/1.4, Sigma 56/1.4, Tamron 60/2.0, 70-200/4L IS, 70-200/2.8 IS, 85/1.8, Tamron 90/2.5, 100/2.8 USM, 100-400L II, 135/2L, 180/3.5L, 300/4L IS, 300/2.8L IS, 500/4L IS, EF 1.4X II, EF 2X II. Flashes, strobes & various access. - FLICKR (external link)

  
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Japers
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Jan 23, 2013 11:45 as a reply to  @ amfoto1's post |  #4

A speedlight will work just fine if you’re shooting at 1:1. When you get into higher magnifications where your working distance gets really short, you’ll need to get your light source much closer, but generally speaking you can do a lot with a simple speedlight. I use only a 430ex (hotshoe) with either a cheapo sto-fen diffuser cap or a mini softbox. You can see samples at my Flickr (external link) (don't wanna hijack the thread with photos).


60D + Lenses = Flickr (external link)

  
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