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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 26 Jan 2013 (Saturday) 10:20
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A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

 
dmward
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Jul 03, 2013 16:56 |  #1741

Whortleberry wrote in post #16088552 (external link)
EDIT: ASSUMING that the 5v feed really is part of a voltage-monitoring circuit, I'm far from convinced that you could run a flash unit on one port and a camera on the other. There'd probably be a conflict somewhere. I shan't be trying it, that's for certain!

Phil, that does, however, explain the spec on the Quantum site that the Turbo C, which has two ports can run the camera on one while running the speedlite on the other.

THIS (external link) cable is what peaked my interest. Not sure that I'd use one but its interesting to note that they exist. The way the cable goes into the battery shaped end suggests that they may have done some electronics in there. The price, being Quantum is hard to use as an indicator. :-)


David | Sharing my Insights, Knowledge & Experience (external link) | dmwfotos website (external link)

  
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Whortleberry
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Jul 03, 2013 18:49 |  #1742

If Quantum have to guess the street price in the USA, I hate to think what it might be this side of the pond.
It's highly unlikely I'll ever see one now so could only guess how they've achieved it. Could be a mighty expensive guess if applied elsewhere and wrongly so I shall invoke the "Discretion is the better part of Valour" clause, if I may. ;)

Oh, all right then - if you really insist - I'm a coward who won't spend what would probably be US$250 upwards to blow up a camera and/or power pack if I've guessed wrong.


Phil ǁ Kershaw Soho Reflex: 4¼" Ross Xpres, 6½" Aldis, Super XX/ABC Pyro in 24 DDS, HP3/Meritol Metol in RFH, Johnson 'Scales' brand flash powder. Kodak Duo Six-20/Verichrome Pan. Other odd bits over the decades, simply to get the job done - not merely to polish and brag about cos I'm too mean to buy the polish!
FlickR (external link) ◄► "The Other Yongnuo User Guide v4.12" by Clive Bolton (external link) ◄► UK Railway Photographs 1906-79 (external link)

  
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Osiriz
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Jul 03, 2013 21:26 as a reply to  @ Whortleberry's post |  #1743

I'm now in the process of hunting for some nice modifiers to use with my awesome new flash. :) In my desperate search for a foldable octabox with fiberglass ribs, I noticed this: http://www.phottix.com …-softbox-with-grid-2.html (external link)

Looks very interesting, but I could not find any decent reviews on it.

Anyone here using it?




  
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tetrode
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Jul 03, 2013 21:44 |  #1744

Osiriz wrote in post #16089233 (external link)
I'm now in the process of hunting for some nice modifiers to use with my awesome new flash. :) In my desperate search for a foldable octabox with fiberglass ribs, I noticed this: http://www.phottix.com …-softbox-with-grid-2.html (external link)

Looks very interesting, but I could not find any decent reviews on it.

Anyone here using it?

Don't order one until Mr. Whortleberry has weighed in. He has one. Note the wording CAREFULLY:

" includes fiberglass rod inserts"




  
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BigIronCruiser
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Jul 03, 2013 22:59 |  #1745

Osiriz wrote in post #16089233 (external link)
I'm now in the process of hunting for some nice modifiers to use with my awesome new flash. :) In my desperate search for a foldable octabox with fiberglass ribs, I noticed this: http://www.phottix.com …-softbox-with-grid-2.html (external link)

Looks very interesting, but I could not find any decent reviews on it.

Anyone here using it?

I have a foldable Octabox that I bought from Cheetah, and it looks very similar (maybe identical) to the one being sold by Phottix. The Cheetah product is a nice concept, but the fiberglass rods fall out of the pockets when it's collapsed, making it a PITA to re-open.




  
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Whortleberry
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Jul 04, 2013 03:32 |  #1746

Anything built on an umbrella frame has identifiable weak points. In descending order, these are:


  1. The rib itself at the hinge point between rib and stretcher - much the most common failure zone as this is where the greatest strain is concentrated.
  2. The attachment point of stretcher to slider (wire tie-wrap, effectively).
  3. The attachment point of rib to headstock (similar wire tie-wrap).
With this in mind, and getting more than fed-up of the standard 'U' channel ribs collapsing where the stretcher applies the stress to the rib, I assiduously researched alternatives.

At that time (and it's only a very few weeks ago), Phottix were advertising their 80cm (32") Octagonal softbox as having "fiberglass ribs". Fiberglass is more durable than thin, folded metal I thought. So I ordered. What arrived was a frame with fiberglass rod INSERTS into the ribs, straddling the weak point - not the fiberglass ribs (spokes) advertised at that time. As a direct result of my complaint of misleading advertising, Phottix immediately changed the wording to "fibreglass rod INSERTS" - exactly what they had provided but not what was advertised at the time of ordering. In the 'To & Fro' of my complaint and their rebuttal, they asserted that fiberglass ribs were unstable. Here's the full text of their last, very polite reply:

Dear Philip Weston,

Finally , I got you problem , thanks for your patience to express the details of the complaint.

Actually , this is the misleading of the description on our website.

Fibreglass is built in the metal rib and why we use this design is that all the fibreglass ribs
can not hold the umbrella stably but the metal one can.

Thanks in advance for your best understanding on this situation.

Regards,
Team Phottix

My feeling now is that, while the wording of their webpage was quite specific originally, this was a translation problem rather than a deliberate attempt to mislead. I'm NOT happy about the situation but acknowledge that these misunderstandings can happen. On this occasion to my detriment, but c'est la vie.

There are a couple of readily-identified problems with this 'insert' solution versus the entire rib being homogenous.


  1. An insert increases the stiffness locally and merely shifts the point(s) of greatest stress.
  2. Additional stresses have now been placed on the stretchers, the hinges between ribs and stretchers and the attachment of stretchers to slider by this differential stiffness. All of these components remain standard design and material.
Hence, while a temporary fix has definitely been applied, I feel that it is unequivocably temporary rather than a permanent solution. I can't accept that "all the fiberglass ribs can not hold the umbrella stably ..." when they continue to use full-length fibreglass ribs on their much larger Para-Pro umbrellas (albeit with 16 ribs). On the one hand fiberglass ribs are not stable, yet on the other hand they are. Simply doesn't equate.
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The 'fiberglass rod insert' seems to be an expedient 'fix' rather than a permanent solution to a problem which has plagued many users of many brands of umbrella-based softbox. What Phottix have actually done is a slightly more elegantly finished version of my own fibreglass splints on collapsed ribs of other makes of octagonal softbox. "We are not amused". Far better if going the 'insert' route would be to use full-length inserts of slightly thinner diameter; with appropriate terminations.

In fairness, the sofbox received has so far proved collapse-free - but then I've only used it twice, indoors and very carefully so this cannot be construed as any indication of longevity or solution to the problem. I do know that it's a lot stiffer to put up than any other I've owned. We shall see if it survives but no wager will be placed ;)

The really annoying thing is that I have (had - 2 were purloined) 3 golf umbrellas custom-built on Hoyland Fox frames (Samual Fox is reputed to have invented the steel-framed umbrella). These protected Brides in all sorts of extremely windy and stress-inducing weather for over 2 decades without a single collapse. They've been distorted and pushed out through small Church and limo doorways into appalling weather and have survived intact to this day. So a durable umbrella frame is not beyond the whit of mankind - why is it so hard to incorporate into anything with "Photographic" in the name. Yes, I'm aware that Westcott now appear to be using fiberglass full ribs - I haven't seen one 'in the flash' but it may be the way forward.

As a consequence of the preceding debacle, I couldn't recommend Phottix in this instance. There's perhaps the vaguest chance that I may just possibly be a tiny wee bit biased in light of recent events. I reserve that right! ;)

Phew! L o n g answer for which I apologise, just wanted to give as full information as I could. When Tetrode said about me 'weighing in', even I didn't realise just how heavy the response would be. :oops:

Phil ǁ Kershaw Soho Reflex: 4¼" Ross Xpres, 6½" Aldis, Super XX/ABC Pyro in 24 DDS, HP3/Meritol Metol in RFH, Johnson 'Scales' brand flash powder. Kodak Duo Six-20/Verichrome Pan. Other odd bits over the decades, simply to get the job done - not merely to polish and brag about cos I'm too mean to buy the polish!
FlickR (external link) ◄► "The Other Yongnuo User Guide v4.12" by Clive Bolton (external link) ◄► UK Railway Photographs 1906-79 (external link)

  
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tongki
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Jul 04, 2013 07:45 |  #1747

Whortleberry wrote in post #16088890 (external link)
If Quantum have to guess the street price in the USA, I hate to think what it might be this side of the pond.
It's highly unlikely I'll ever see one now so could only guess how they've achieved it. Could be a mighty expensive guess if applied elsewhere and wrongly so I shall invoke the "Discretion is the better part of Valour" clause, if I may. ;)

Oh, all right then - if you really insist - I'm a coward who won't spend what would probably be US$250 upwards to blow up a camera and/or power pack if I've guessed wrong.

based on my experience it can be tested,
you can test it both ways,
output from the cable itself and the dummy battery connector

I suggest you get Canon ACK-E4 and Quantum cable for LP-E4,
it is a good example where you can easily measure the output


EOS 70D x 2 units + EOS 7D mark II x3 units
Newton FR3, Newton modified bracket, EF 17-40mm x4,EF 24-70mm f/2.8 x2, EF 70-200mm f/2.8 x2
Quantum Trio x2, T5D-R x1 + FW7Q x1, CoPilot x2, Godox AD-180 x5
Propac PB960 head x12, PB960 battery x10
sorry, no stupid speedlite from Canon !

  
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Whortleberry
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Jul 04, 2013 08:55 |  #1748

tongki wrote in post #16090260 (external link)
I suggest you get Canon ACK-E4 and Quantum cable for LP-E4,
it is a good example where you can easily measure the output

Now why would I want to do that? Cost to me including shipping & various taxes US$476.04. Value to me US$0 because


  1. It doesn't fit any camera I own any more.
  2. I've never, ever needed extra batteries for any camera anyway. Not once since I started in photography in 1952. Pretty unlikely that a need would suddenly arise at this late stage.
Therefore a fairly futile exercise. Plus I refuse on principle to pay Quantum's stupidly inflated prices.

Meantime, back on the actual topic of this thread ...........22 days till both UK and USA distributors are supposed to receive shipping containers of goodies. In the USA at least, this should include some new modifiers for the flash unit(s) under discussion. See https://photography-on-the.net …p=16064674&post​count=1655 for a brief and tantalising mention of 3 of them.

Phil ǁ Kershaw Soho Reflex: 4¼" Ross Xpres, 6½" Aldis, Super XX/ABC Pyro in 24 DDS, HP3/Meritol Metol in RFH, Johnson 'Scales' brand flash powder. Kodak Duo Six-20/Verichrome Pan. Other odd bits over the decades, simply to get the job done - not merely to polish and brag about cos I'm too mean to buy the polish!
FlickR (external link) ◄► "The Other Yongnuo User Guide v4.12" by Clive Bolton (external link) ◄► UK Railway Photographs 1906-79 (external link)

  
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Jul 04, 2013 09:21 as a reply to  @ Whortleberry's post |  #1749

What modifier are you finding most useful with these flashes? Which softbox or octabox are you finding most useful with these flashes. For those who have tried it how is the Kacey beauty dish working out?


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Jul 04, 2013 09:35 |  #1750

butterfly2937 wrote in post #16090446 (external link)
For those who have tried it how is the Kacey beauty dish working out?

I've got the Kacey BD and have used it with both studio lights and speedlights. The CL-180 or CL-360 should certainly work well, if not better than a speedlight, and probably as well as a studio light.


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dmward
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Jul 04, 2013 10:23 |  #1751

So far I've either used the collapsible beauty dish or umbrella frame octa or square/rectangular soft boxes. I like the ease of using the umbrella frame soft boxes. As noted above the best are those with fiberglass frames. Largest one I have is 90cm, also two 70cm and two Phottix octas that have frame problems. If wind is an issue then the standard reflector with the diffusion disk.


David | Sharing my Insights, Knowledge & Experience (external link) | dmwfotos website (external link)

  
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elv
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Jul 04, 2013 13:20 |  #1752

butterfly2937 wrote in post #16090446 (external link)
What modifier are you finding most useful with these flashes? Which softbox or octabox are you finding most useful with these flashes.

The Apollo style softboxes are ideal, because you have easy remote power control and don't have to dig inside the softbox for that. Also they rob the power from speedlights, while the bare bulb is very efficient inside them. And the light is super soft as well.
.


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Osiriz
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Jul 05, 2013 00:37 |  #1753

Whortleberry wrote in post #16089930 (external link)
Anything built on an umbrella frame has identifiable weak points.

...........:

Thanks for that awesome explanation. Now I'll know exactly what to look for. :)




  
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Whortleberry
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Jul 05, 2013 01:57 |  #1754

Don't get me wrong - umbrella-framed modifiers are brilliant in concept and definitely my preferred option. Just not a universal panacea.

The Cheetah / Godox mini-folding-beauty-dish-thingy (:lol:) seems to have achieved a decently durable frame albeit in small size. Solid rods (different) for ribs/spokes, reworked terminations of rib/slider and rib/headstock with better mechanics than the bit-of-bent-metal solutions which most use. OK, the small size of the canopy produces smaller loads but at least some thought has been put into the thing rather than adopting the "we've always done it this way" approach. It'll be interesting to see what that 26 July shipment brings. Will the bigger softboxes be similarly rethought or will they be same-old-same-old? We can only hope!

Anyone out there got existing, current Jinbei or Godox umbrella-strut softboxes for comparison purposes?


Phil ǁ Kershaw Soho Reflex: 4¼" Ross Xpres, 6½" Aldis, Super XX/ABC Pyro in 24 DDS, HP3/Meritol Metol in RFH, Johnson 'Scales' brand flash powder. Kodak Duo Six-20/Verichrome Pan. Other odd bits over the decades, simply to get the job done - not merely to polish and brag about cos I'm too mean to buy the polish!
FlickR (external link) ◄► "The Other Yongnuo User Guide v4.12" by Clive Bolton (external link) ◄► UK Railway Photographs 1906-79 (external link)

  
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gomab1914
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Jul 05, 2013 11:08 |  #1755

ED @CheetahStand is the BEST!! Hands down the best customer service experience to date!! Cheetah has a customer for life!


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A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives
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