A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

Nikkor316 wrote in post #16132804
Can the CL-xxx be used in the hotshoe of the FlexTT5 rather than a hotshoe adapter plus cable? Does this work for HSS?

No. The CL-xxx only has the center pin on its hot foot. I don't know if the FlexTT5 will fire it with just the center pin. It should fire via a cable from the P mini-jack. And, if I remember correctly that will work to deliver an FP-sync fire signal.

If you are talking about the Nikon version, I presume it works about like the Canon version.

symbolphoto wrote in post #16130963
I don't mind changing power regularly (I shoot in manual mode on my flashes all the time). But i don't want to have to mess around with cables, extra triggers, extra batteries etc. I'm done with that.

Wow... where is the big "THANK YOU" button when you need one??

Thanks to all who have contributed here, it helped me make a decision to get this light. I got the Godox version (in Singapore) a couple of days back. I also have the YN622C triggers and wanted to try the H mode on the strobe.

I tried using the PC - 3.5mm cable to connect the YN622C to the AD-360 (and mounting flash on YN622) but was not able to fire correctly above sync speeds. I tried shutter speeds of 1/800 and above with the power on the flash set at all H mode levels.

Can someone who has used it guide me on how to use it?

BigIronCruiser wrote in post #16130460
Though I've never wanted to do this, Nikon appears to be a little easier than Canon in terms of mixing speedlights with CL-xxx's. I posted something close to the following elsewhere in this thread, but to save time this is what works with a Nikon D4...

1. Place a PW MiniTT1 with a CLS-compatible speedlight (e.g. SB-910) in the camera's hotshoe
2. Set the SB-910 to Master Mode, and set its zone to anything, i.e. TTL, Manual, ---, etc
3. Place the remote CL-xxx in a hotshoe adapter, and connect the male end of the adapter cable to P2 on a FlexTT5
4. Select a Zone (A, B or C) for the remote FlexTT5
5. Set the selected Zone from Step 4 to Manual on the SB-910
6. Happy shooting (even up to max shutter speed as long as the CL-XXX is set to 1/1)
7. Focus assist on the SB-910 is active, though it's rarely needed when using a D4

An AC-3 zone controller or SU-4 can be used in place of the SB-910 if desired.

One of the downsides, of course, is that PW's are fairly pricey.

This works! tried at a wedding this weekend and to my surprise it simply worked. I was using the tt1 on camera with an sb900 as the master and ----- setting.

srikeerthi wrote in post #16133165
Thanks to all who have contributed here, it helped me make a decision to get this light. I got the Godox version (in Singapore) a couple of days back. I also have the YN622C triggers and wanted to try the H mode on the strobe.

I tried using the PC - 3.5mm cable to connect the YN622C to the AD-360 (and mounting flash on YN622) but was not able to fire correctly above sync speeds. I tried shutter speeds of 1/800 and above with the power on the flash set at all H mode levels.

Can someone who has used it guide me on how to use it?

The AD-360 can not be in the hot shoe of the YN-622. It has to be connected to the PC port on the side of the YN-622. Then it will fire in H mode, providing there is a YN-622 on the camera and it has activated HSS on the camera. I think that happens automatically when the shutter is set past the sync speed. If not try going into the external flash menu on the camera and setting HSS.

Robsphoto wrote in post #16133325
This works! tried at a wedding this weekend and to my surprise it simply worked. I was using the tt1 on camera with an sb900 as the master and ----- setting.

Have you tried it in H mode. At 1/1 and the higher shutter speeds its probably the HyperSync capability of the ControlTL system coming into play.

If you try H mode I think you will have to set the HSS switch over shutter speed in the firmware utility. At least for Canon, as I recall, there is a setting to switch from HSS to HyperSync.

dmward wrote in post #16125603
If I didn't have 4 Einsteins, I probably wouldn't buy any unless I was doing studio fashion or similar. I find them great in that environment, even though the 360 has enough power the recycle time is slower. With models its nice to be able to keep hitting the shutter to make sure of the expression before the pose goes.

For most applications the 360 is going to be perfect. Even for kids, since the power can be brought down by having the light close, and using the 2 to 1 cable to help recycle time.

That's what I'm eager to try.

LOL, I was just thinking of selling my profoto D1 kit that I purchased in April for another Cl-360 to complete my kit. Hum, decisions, decisions!! The CL 360 is so portable and has more power especially doing formals at weddings.

dmward wrote in post #16132877
No. The CL-xxx only has the center pin on its hot foot. I don't know if the FlexTT5 will fire it with just the center pin. It should fire via a cable from the P mini-jack. And, if I remember correctly that will work to deliver an FP-sync fire signal.

If you are talking about the Nikon version, I presume it works about like the Canon version.

It does fire correctly in HS of FlexTT5 but won't go above x-sync mode for HSS. Does it matter if connected using PC jack or 1/8" mono plug?

Nikkor316 wrote in post #16133380
It does fire correctly in HS of FlexTT5 but won't go above x-sync mode for HSS. Does it matter if connected using PC jack or 1/8" mono plug?

I use the mini-jack on the CL-xxx and its connected to the PC jack on the YN-622 so I expect that it would work in the P port on a FlexTT5. But it may require adjusting some settings in the Flex firmware.

dmward wrote in post #16133389
I use the mini-jack on the CL-xxx and its connected to the PC jack on the YN-622 so I expect that it would work in the P port on a FlexTT5. But it may require adjusting some settings in the Flex firmware.

Just to clarify, this worked with my Nikon D4 by connecting the male pin of the hotshoe adapter to P2 on the FlexTT5, and I didn't do any special configuration on my Flex and/or Mini hardware. It worked without black bars up to 1/8000 as long as the CL-360 or CL-180 was set to full power. The downside is that the effective power of the CL-xxx drops as shutter speed is increased. This means that any change in shutter speed will require an adjustment in the camera's f/stop in order to get the correct exposure.

BigIronCruiser wrote in post #16133570
Just to clarify, this worked with my Nikon D4 by connecting the male pin of the hotshoe adapter to P2 on the FlexTT5, and I didn't do any special configuration on my Flex and/or Mini hardware. It worked without black bars up to 1/8000 as long as the CL-360 or CL-180 was set to full power. The downside is that the effective power of the CL-xxx drops as shutter speed is increased. This means that any change in shutter speed will require an adjustment in the camera's f/stop in order to get the correct exposure.

Was the CL-xxx set to H mode? It sounds like it.

The flash duration at full power is such that it could also be Hyper Sync.

I could get a clean frame with Einstein at full power with ControlTL. Don't remember how far up the shutter speed dial I went.

dmward wrote in post #16134292
Was the CL-xxx set to H mode? It sounds like it.

The flash duration at full power is such that it could also be Hyper Sync.

I could get a clean frame with Einstein at full power with ControlTL. Don't remember how far up the shutter speed dial I went.

No, it was NOT set to H mode.

BigIronCruiser wrote in post #16135728
No, it was NOT set to H mode.

The CL-180 has a 1/1 flash duration of 1/800. The CL-360 is 1/300. Those flash durations are long enough, especially when considering that t.1 is longer, to act as a constant light source during the shutter travel. That makes them ideal for Hyper Sync with ControlTL at full power.

The IGBT power control means that as power is reduced the flash duration decreases. Thus, H mode to help with FP-sync applications. That gives away about 1 stop so the capacitor energy can be dispersed during the rapid cycling flash. Net result is 1/1 use M. If you need to stop down, use H mode where 1/1 is same as 1/2 M.

srikeerthi wrote in post #16133165
Thanks to all who have contributed here, it helped me make a decision to get this light. I got the Godox version (in Singapore) a couple of days back. I also have the YN622C triggers and wanted to try the H mode on the strobe.

I tried using the PC - 3.5mm cable to connect the YN622C to the AD-360 (and mounting flash on YN622) but was not able to fire correctly above sync speeds. I tried shutter speeds of 1/800 and above with the power on the flash set at all H mode levels.

Can someone who has used it guide me on how to use it?

Did you make any progress here? As David mentioned you can only use the PC sync port on the the YN-622C receiver to get the pre-sync signal required.

There's nothing to do really other than connect it up and put the CL-360 into H-mode. Even when its not is H-mode you should get similar results from the Hypersync.

Which camera body btw?
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jcolman wrote in post #16130086
When I use my 580EX on camera, I use pocketwizards to fire the Cheetah lights. One pocketwizard gets plugged into a modified base on the 580EX and is rubber banded to the flash. The other PW is attached to the Cheetah lights sync port.

Thanks Jim. That is handy having the PC out on the flash foot. David started a post about the 600EX-RT here for anyone else interested in this concept - https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1316429

Nikon users are lucky to have a PC sync out port already on their speedlights.
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