A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

For those who doubt the HSS capability of the CL-360's:

Nikon D4 with 24-70 2.8G zoomed to 45mm

Lastolite 24" Ezybox positioned 4' from subject

Triggered with PW MiniTT1 & AC3 on camera, and FlexTT5 cabled to the CL-360's Sync Port

ISO 200, 1/1600, f/2.8

CL-360 in "H" mode at 1/4 power

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^^^ Great example. Also, nice portrait.
And its comforting to see that the ControlTL stuff works with the CL H mode FP sync.

Did you have to do any special setup in the firmware?

dmward wrote in post #16138083
^^^ Great example. Also, nice portrait.
And its comforting to see that the ControlTL stuff works with the CL H mode FP sync.

Did you have to do any special setup in the firmware?

No, there wasn't any special firmware setup; the configuration values for the Hypersync/HSS tab (in the PW Utility) are set to their defaults.

BigIronCruiser wrote in post #16138106
No, there wasn't any special firmware setup; the configuration values for the Hypersync/HSS tab (in the PW Utility) are set to their defaults.

Canon and Nikon differs in this and I had a look at it with my 5D MKIII and the AD360. I got better results with my 5D MKIII then with a 1D MKII which puzzled me. Normally that is the other way around with PW.

You can read about it in the PocketWizard forum on Flickr.

http://www.flickr.com …iscuss/72157634​428487427/

BigIronCruiser wrote in post #16137901
For those who doubt the HSS capability of the CL-360's:

Nikon D4 with 24-70 2.8G zoomed to 45mm

Lastolite 24" Ezybox positioned 4' from subject

Triggered with PW MiniTT1 & AC3 on camera, and FlexTT5 cabled to the CL-360's Sync Port

ISO 200, 1/1600, f/2.8

CL-360 in "H" mode at 1/4 power

HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Byte size: ZERO

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I have tested this with Nikon D700 and all works good with both CL180 and CL360. I only use standard manual when 1/1 but switch on H-mode when stepping the light to anything less than 1/1. My question is why the AC3 mounted on camera? I tested with it on and off. I use the cheetah transmitter to change light ratio and it works in the mini TT1 fine even in HSS sync. Just curious why the recommendations are to use SBXXX/SU800 or AC3 mounted on top of miniTT1? It can't be used to change power of CL. Perhaps if mixing with standard Nikon speedlights?

Nikkor316 wrote in post #16138394
I have tested this with Nikon D700 and all works good with both CL180 and CL360. I only use standard manual when 1/1 but switch on H-mode when stepping the light to anything less than 1/1. My question is why the AC3 mounted on camera? I tested with it on and off. I use the cheetah transmitter to change light ratio and it works in the mini TT1 fine even in HSS sync. Just curious why the recommendations are to use SBXXX/SU800 or AC3 mounted on top of miniTT1? It can't be used to change power of CL. Perhaps if mixing with standard Nikon speedlights?

Mixing with Nikon speedlights would necessitate the use of an AC3 or a Master-capable speedlight on the MiniTT1. I believe that using an AC3 (or SBXXX/SU800) also allows the user to selectively enable/disable the zone for the CL-xxx.

B.I.C. thanks for checking this out with your Nikon gear. Your setup is similar to what I'm using, and I've been wondering how mixing an on-camera SB-900/910 would work with the Cheetah Lights.

Quick (dumb) question: Do you have your CL-360 mounted onto the FlexTT5 hot shoe for simplicity, as well as cabled together? or would that not work? (sorry for what may seem like a really simple question, but my PocketWizard experience is only with the Flex and Mini units via their hot shoes.)

Just to make sure I'm understanding properly: An SB-900 mounted onto a MiniTT1 on-camera, can trigger a remote set of CL-360 cabled to a FlexTT5 on your stands. But you still need the CL-TXRX (in your pocket for example) set to change the power of the CL-360 lights, is that right?

One final question: If you are slipping your CL-360 into the FlexTT5 hot shoe, how is the fit? Is it nice and tight? or is there a lot of play?

If you haven't put together this sort of setup just yet, would you mind testing it for me? If I have the above things correct, this is what I'm looking to do should I go with the Cheetah Lights. This would give me an on-camera flash (along with the AF assist lamp I rely upon), along with great remote lights. The only shortcoming is needing to pocket the CL-TXRX, but I suppose I can deal with that if necessary. Thanks in advance!

Nikkor316 wrote in post #16138394
I have tested this with Nikon D700 and all works good with both CL180 and CL360.

You got HSS working with CL180 + D700 + PocketWizards? Could you please share your settings / setup as I couldn't achieve same with same gear.

Ulysses01 wrote in post #16138628
B.I.C. thanks for checking this out with your Nikon gear. Your setup is similar to what I'm using, and I've been wondering how mixing an on-camera SB-900/910 would work with the Cheetah Lights.

Quick (dumb) question: Do you have your CL-360 mounted onto the FlexTT5 hot shoe for simplicity, as well as cabled together? or would that not work? (sorry for what may seem like a really simple question, but my PocketWizard experience is only with the Flex and Mini units via their hot shoes.)

Just to make sure I'm understanding properly: An SB-900 mounted onto a MiniTT1 on-camera, can trigger a remote set of CL-360 cabled to a FlexTT5 on your stands. But you still need the CL-TXRX (in your pocket for example) set to change the power of the CL-360 lights, is that right?

One final question: If you are slipping your CL-360 into the FlexTT5 hot shoe, how is the fit? Is it nice and tight? or is there a lot of play?

If you haven't put together this sort of setup just yet, would you mind testing it for me? If I have the above things correct, this is what I'm looking to do should I go with the Cheetah Lights. This would give me an on-camera flash (along with the AF assist lamp I rely upon), along with great remote lights. The only shortcoming is needing to pocket the CL-TXRX, but I suppose I can deal with that if necessary. Thanks in advance!

The Cheetah fits into the Flex shoe okay, but it won't trigger the light at anything above standard sync speed. There may be a way to modify the Flex settings to make it work above x-sync, but I'm not inclined to mess around with it since I already have a working solution.

One thing I don't like is having the Flex rubber-banded to the SpeedPro Bracket. My thought is to drill a hole at the back of the slider channel, and then secure the Flex to the bottom of the bracket with a 1/4-20 wing bolt. I also want to find a sync cable with right-angles on both ends so the connectors aren't so prone to getting whacked. Anyone know where to find such a beast?

ZoranC wrote in post #16138883
You got HSS working with CL180 + D700 + PocketWizards? Could you please share your settings / setup as I couldn't achieve same with same gear.

See THISpost. No special configuration was needed on the PW's. It's not exactly HSS, but it does allow the Cheetah's to be used at any shutter speed.

BigIronCruiser wrote in post #16138957
It's not exactly HSS, but it does allow the Cheetah's to be used at any shutter speed.

If you have the Cheetah Light in H-mode, that is FP HSS.

If you take it out of H-mode (and use full power on the flash) that is Hypersync.


So far yourself (with a D4) and Nikor316 (with a D700) appear to have this working fine in both H-Mode and Hypersync, with the PocketWizards (but Zoran doesn't for some reason).

You are all connecting the flash via the P2 port on the TT5 receiver correct? (and standard setting on the PW utility).

.

Can any Nikon users try the PC sync port on a Nikon flash mounted on camera?

You will need a hotshoe to PC sync cord to connect the CL-Tx to the PC sync port on the flash mounted on camera.

Then simply set the flash on camera to HSS, and the CL-180/360 to H-Mode.


That way you should get the same pre-sync signal needed for HSS without any extra PocketWizards or TTL triggers needed.

.

mmmfotografie wrote in post #16138129
Canon and Nikon differs in this and I had a look at it with my 5D MKIII and the AD360. I got better results with my 5D MKIII then with a 1D MKII which puzzled me. Normally that is the other way around with PW.

You can read about it in the PocketWizard forum on Flickr.

http://www.flickr.com …iscuss/72157634​428487427/

Where did you get up to with this? Did you find some setting that are working reasonbly well?

Unfortunately once the troll starts there it doesn't make much sense anymore.
.

Has anyone tried these with the new King Pro yet? Especially interested in the Nikon version compatibility.

BigIronCruiser wrote in post #16138940
One thing I don't like is having the Flex rubber-banded to the SpeedPro Bracket.

Thanks for the reply. And very much agreed. I'm extremely unlikely to band or velcro any of these pieces together. I'm looking for a cleaner solution if at all possible.

BigIronCruiser wrote in post #16138940
My thought is to drill a hole at the back of the slider channel, and then secure the Flex to the bottom of the bracket with a 1/4-20 wing bolt.

Is there not an accessory you can find that already has such a hole already or a that has the 1/4-20 built in so you don't have to retrofit like this?