Approve the Cookies
This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and our Privacy Policy.
OK
Index  •   • New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear  •   • Reviews
Guest
New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear  •   • Reviews
Register to forums    Log in

 
FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 26 Jan 2013 (Saturday) 10:20
Search threadPrev/next
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as a registered member)

A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

 
mmmfotografie
hanging up-side-down in a cave
2,114 posts
Likes: 492
Joined Jul 2013
Location: Helsinki Airport
     
Jul 24, 2013 13:51 |  #1936

As already told my AD360 on a extended light stand fell over and the thing what not yet was repaired was the power pack which hit also a rock and dislodging the battery en ripping out the retention bit.

I went today to work to repair that and only glue would not do it so I cut a piece out of a hair clip that made of steel that is working as an spring.

First I made with a saw two slots and then super glued the steel spring in. After some grinding it fits OK and I don't have to put tape on the side any more to keep the battery in place.

Anyone a suggestion which material I can use to close the broken out part with to have also a nice look on the outside?


HOSTED PHOTO
please log in to view hosted photos in full size.




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as a registered member)
Whortleberry
Goldmember
Avatar
1,719 posts
Likes: 53
Joined Dec 2011
Location: Yorkshire, England
     
Jul 24, 2013 16:32 |  #1937

mmmfotografie wrote in post #16150286 (external link)
As already told my AD360 on a extended light stand fell over and the thing what not yet was repaired was the power pack which hit also a rock and dislodging the battery en ripping out the retention bit.

I went today to work to repair that and only glue would not do it so I cut a piece out of a hair clip that made of steel that is working as an spring.

First I made with a saw two slots and then super glued the steel spring in. After some grinding it fits OK and I don't have to put tape on the side any more to keep the battery in place
.

Anyone a suggestion which material I can use to close the broken out part with to have also a nice look on the outside?

I have VERY successfully used a 2-part epoxy glue (Araldite (external link) in the UK) as a filler for this type of job - the most long-lived was to fill the hole in a car headlight lens (edge, not the beam forming part). This lasted for several years through all sorts of weather and never failed roadworthiness tests either (it actually fascinated the testing stations).You could colour this with something like turmeric food additive to get approximately the orange colour of your pack.

The easy way to get a smooth finish on the outside would be to fill in the hole slightly above the surface and then apply a very advanced technique. Wet your finger thoroughly with saliva and smooth quite firmly over the outside area while the glue is still plastic (ie not super-runny but not yet cured hard). You can achieve a remarkably smooth finish this way - I've used this technique quite a number of times on various projects with 100% success.

You'll have to experiment with the turmeric to get the right colour, of course. An alternative would be one of the colourants used to make fishing bait even more attractive to fishermen; it could possibly also work on the fish but it quite definitely attracts fishermen who are nearly as gullible over gadgets as photographers. A third alternative weould be to try powder paint although I'm not sure what effect this would have on durability.

If you aren't happy with the standard of finish using saliva, you can smooth the hardened glue with 1200 or 2000 grit wet & dry carbide abrasive. BTW, if you use the saliva on finger method only lick your finger ONCE - it doesn't taste very nice the second time. Go on - ask me how I know this!! Or deduce for yourself ;)

Either variety of Araldite will do the job - the standard variety is stronger but takes 24 hours to cure while the 5 minute variety cures 288 times faster (in ? minutes, surprisingly enough) but the 'open' time gives you less time working on the epoxy/saliva interface.

Just in case someone reads this and thinks it's a joke, I assure you that I am totally serious. It really does work remarkable well. But then they did use the stuff to glue bits of Sydney Opera House together! Again, not joking!

PS. Making the perhaps erroneous assumption that you're male - can I ask how come you have some hair clips?? :lol:


Phil ǁ Kershaw Soho Reflex: 4¼" Ross Xpres, 6½" Aldis, Super XX/ABC Pyro in 24 DDS, HP3/Meritol Metol in RFH, Johnson 'Scales' brand flash powder. Kodak Duo Six-20/Verichrome Pan. Other odd bits over the decades, simply to get the job done - not merely to polish and brag about cos I'm too mean to buy the polish!
FlickR (external link) ◄► "The Other Yongnuo User Guide v4.12" by Clive Bolton (external link) ◄► UK Railway Photographs 1906-79 (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
mmmfotografie
hanging up-side-down in a cave
2,114 posts
Likes: 492
Joined Jul 2013
Location: Helsinki Airport
     
Jul 25, 2013 08:04 |  #1938

Whortleberry wrote in post #16150713 (external link)
I have VERY successfully used a 2-part epoxy glue (Araldite (external link) in the UK) as a filler for this type of job - the most long-lived was to fill the hole in a car headlight lens (edge, not the beam forming part). This lasted for several years through all sorts of weather and never failed roadworthiness tests either (it actually fascinated the testing stations).You could colour this with something like turmeric food additive to get approximately the orange colour of your pack.

The easy way to get a smooth finish on the outside would be to fill in the hole slightly above the surface and then apply a very advanced technique. Wet your finger thoroughly with saliva and smooth quite firmly over the outside area while the glue is still plastic (ie not super-runny but not yet cured hard). You can achieve a remarkably smooth finish this way - I've used this technique quite a number of times on various projects with 100% success.

You'll have to experiment with the turmeric to get the right colour, of course. An alternative would be one of the colourants used to make fishing bait even more attractive to fishermen; it could possibly also work on the fish but it quite definitely attracts fishermen who are nearly as gullible over gadgets as photographers. A third alternative weould be to try powder paint although I'm not sure what effect this would have on durability.

If you aren't happy with the standard of finish using saliva, you can smooth the hardened glue with 1200 or 2000 grit wet & dry carbide abrasive. BTW, if you use the saliva on finger method only lick your finger ONCE - it doesn't taste very nice the second time. Go on - ask me how I know this!! Or deduce for yourself ;)

Either variety of Araldite will do the job - the standard variety is stronger but takes 24 hours to cure while the 5 minute variety cures 288 times faster (in ? minutes, surprisingly enough) but the 'open' time gives you less time working on the epoxy/saliva interface.

Just in case someone reads this and thinks it's a joke, I assure you that I am totally serious. It really does work remarkable well. But then they did use the stuff to glue bits of Sydney Opera House together! Again, not joking!

PS. Making the perhaps erroneous assumption that you're male - can I ask how come you have some hair clips?? :lol:

Thank you so much Whortleberry and I going to try that and I am going for the slow version.

I am doing model shoots and as photographer you collect a lot of things that a male person normally not needs but the female models do forgot to put in their suitcases/bags. I have now to add paracetamol to it and in the studio I have it, but not when I do shoots outside. Next time I will have it when a model asks for it. Today I received a portable dressing room if a model has to change. You have to keep them happy. :D

Disclaimer, girl not included and please, don't fold down the dressing room before removing the person inside first. ;)

You can use the dressing room in a horizontal way if the model tries to put on pants that are to tight for her. After an all clear, from the person inside, you can put the dressing room a upright position again or leave it horizontal and just open the zipper and roll over the dressing room. In doing this the dressing room cleans itself from person(s) and clothes still present inside.


HOSTED PHOTO
please log in to view hosted photos in full size.




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
dmward
Cream of the Crop
9,083 posts
Gallery: 29 photos
Likes: 1530
Joined Jun 2009
Location: Metro Chicago
     
Jul 25, 2013 09:28 |  #1939

Just added this post to a thread I started about triggering via the flash.

I was looking for a way to have an ETTL speedlite on camera and fire remote strobes via a trigger attached to the speedlite. Canon, in its wisdom, has decided not to provide an out fire signal on the PC connection on the 600EX-RT.

Rand suggested the Strato II Multi as an option. I ordered a trigger/receiver set and tested.

They work as expected, but do not pass an FP-Sync to the Strato receiver. Thus, the Cheetah Lights do not offer H mode benefits using this approach. Still very useful for combining on camera ETTL with remote CLs below X-Sync speed.

The nice thing is that mounting the CL-Tx in the Strato II receiver means having remote power control of all the CLs and also having control of the ETTL features of the on-camera speedlite. And no cables or dangling receivers.


David | Sharing my Insights, Knowledge & Experience (external link) | dmwfotos website (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
dmward
Cream of the Crop
9,083 posts
Gallery: 29 photos
Likes: 1530
Joined Jun 2009
Location: Metro Chicago
     
Jul 25, 2013 10:40 |  #1940

Had another thought, so I gave it a try as well.
I have a Fujifilm X-Pro-1 (I loved my Leica M-4s :-) ) and I knew I could use it with the CLs via the CL-Tx, but that's kind of a big trigger on such a nice little camera. So...

I mounted the Strato II trigger on the XP1 and put the CL-Tx in the Strato II receiver, as expected success!

Here's a test shot. CL-360 in a 28" beauty dish with sock mounted on a Pro Bracket. The diffusion sock is about 30" from the peach and feathered just slightly behind and up. CL-360 is set to 1/64th power in M mode. Camera settings: 1/125 shutter, F2.8 and ISO 200 (lowest available on XP1). Lens was the XF-60 F2.4. It has macro focus capabilities but not used here.

Ambient exposure calculated by the camera would require ISO 1600 for same shutter speed and F stop. That's 3 EV so realistically, the CL-360 is doing all the lighting.

This image was imported using my recipe for XP1 to simulate Kodachrome 25.


HOSTED PHOTO
please log in to view hosted photos in full size.


David | Sharing my Insights, Knowledge & Experience (external link) | dmwfotos website (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
elv
Goldmember
1,491 posts
Likes: 181
Joined Jul 2006
     
Jul 25, 2013 12:28 |  #1941

dmward wrote in post #16152570 (external link)
Just added this post to a thread I started about triggering via the flash.

I was looking for a way to have an ETTL speedlite on camera and fire remote strobes via a trigger attached to the speedlite. Canon, in its wisdom, has decided not to provide an out fire signal on the PC connection on the 600EX-RT.

Rand suggested the Strato II Multi as an option. I ordered a trigger/receiver set and tested.

They work as expected, but do not pass an FP-Sync to the Strato receiver. Thus, the Cheetah Lights do not offer H mode benefits using this approach. Still very useful for combining on camera ETTL with remote CLs below X-Sync speed.

The nice thing is that mounting the CL-Tx in the Strato II receiver means having remote power control of all the CLs and also having control of the ETTL features of the on-camera speedlite. And no cables or dangling receivers.


The Strato II has a more secure pass through hotshoe, but why would you not just use the YN-622C, if you wanted just the one ETTL flash on camera, and CL-360's to fire in HSS (connected to YN-622C receivers).
.


FLASHHAVOC.COM (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
windpig
Chopped liver
Avatar
15,358 posts
Gallery: 7 photos
Likes: 1681
Joined Dec 2008
Location: Just South of Ballard
     
Jul 25, 2013 12:56 |  #1942

1941 posts, OMG!


Would you like to buy a vowel?
Go ahead, spin the wheel.
flickr (external link)
I'm accross the canal just south of Ballard, the town Seattle usurped in 1907.

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
dmward
Cream of the Crop
9,083 posts
Gallery: 29 photos
Likes: 1530
Joined Jun 2009
Location: Metro Chicago
     
Jul 25, 2013 13:16 |  #1943

elv wrote in post #16153074 (external link)
The Strato II has a more secure pass through hotshoe, but why would you not just use the YN-622C, if you wanted just the one ETTL flash on camera, and CL-360's to fire in HSS (connected to YN-622C receivers).
.

Elv, If I needed the CL-XXX to fire in H mode with a flash on the hotshoe that's what I'd do.

But this is more about how to have an ETTL flash on the camera and other manual strobes being fired via a trigger system with minimum complexity when at or below X-Sync. The Strato II becomes the manual trigger to replace the mini-jack in the side of the speedlite Flash Zebra offers for older Canon Speedlites.

Using this method, I can have a 600EX-RT on the camera, a couple around the dance floor, all controlled from the camera via the 600EX-RT menus. And, also one or more CL-XXXs in the far reaches of the venue lighting it up. And I can control them via the CL-Tx for power.

The YN-622c takes over the camera to flash connection and makes the 600EX-RT into a 580EXII.

The Strato II does not interfere with the 600EX-RT in anyway. Its apparently a mechanical connection between foot and shoe because it works with the Strato II turned off as well.


David | Sharing my Insights, Knowledge & Experience (external link) | dmwfotos website (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Csae
Goldmember
Avatar
3,350 posts
Likes: 1
Joined Nov 2008
Location: Montreal, Canada
     
Jul 25, 2013 21:31 |  #1944

You guys are getting so in-depth on one specific topic that it might warrant its own thread, just a suggestion.

That way its easier to find in search results when someone looks up the particular topic.


Feel free to call me Case.
CasePhoto.ca (external link) - FanPage (external link)
-Montreal based Photography.

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
elv
Goldmember
1,491 posts
Likes: 181
Joined Jul 2006
     
Jul 25, 2013 21:32 |  #1945

dmward wrote in post #16153230 (external link)
Using this method, I can have a 600EX-RT on the camera, a couple around the dance floor, all controlled from the camera via the 600EX-RT menus. And, also one or more CL-XXXs in the far reaches of the venue lighting it up. And I can control them via the CL-Tx for power.
.
.
The Strato II does not interfere with the 600EX-RT in anyway. Its apparently a mechanical connection between foot and shoe because it works with the Strato II turned off as well.

Ok thanks for that, I didn't realise you wanted to use off camera Canon RF as well.

Yes the Stratto II are more of a direct pass through than most, but I'm not sure that the signal doens't still run through the processor, or at least some extra circuitry, as they do have issues with some things mounted on top. The Cells II won't fire on top of the Strato II pass through for example.

The Strato II are still my favorite all round manual triggers though. The pass through comes in handy for all sorts of things. You can use the grouping feature to test fire CL lights individually if needed.
.


FLASHHAVOC.COM (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
windpig
Chopped liver
Avatar
15,358 posts
Gallery: 7 photos
Likes: 1681
Joined Dec 2008
Location: Just South of Ballard
     
Jul 25, 2013 21:45 |  #1946

Can we agree that Edward is a great vendor to deal with?


Would you like to buy a vowel?
Go ahead, spin the wheel.
flickr (external link)
I'm accross the canal just south of Ballard, the town Seattle usurped in 1907.

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
dmward
Cream of the Crop
9,083 posts
Gallery: 29 photos
Likes: 1530
Joined Jun 2009
Location: Metro Chicago
     
Jul 25, 2013 22:22 |  #1947

windpig wrote in post #16154451 (external link)
Can we agree that Edward is a great vendor to deal with?

Without question!


David | Sharing my Insights, Knowledge & Experience (external link) | dmwfotos website (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
dmward
Cream of the Crop
9,083 posts
Gallery: 29 photos
Likes: 1530
Joined Jun 2009
Location: Metro Chicago
     
Jul 25, 2013 22:25 |  #1948

Csae wrote in post #16154424 (external link)
You guys are getting so in-depth on one specific topic that it might warrant its own thread, just a suggestion.

That way its easier to find in search results when someone looks up the particular topic.

Case, If you've been following this thread through its 1900 plus post evolution, you'll remember that there have been many times that its delved deeply into a characteristic of the CL lights, and how they interact with various other pieces of the puzzle. The thread has always come back to its central theme.

I expect it will again.


David | Sharing my Insights, Knowledge & Experience (external link) | dmwfotos website (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
windpig
Chopped liver
Avatar
15,358 posts
Gallery: 7 photos
Likes: 1681
Joined Dec 2008
Location: Just South of Ballard
     
Jul 26, 2013 13:03 |  #1949

dmward wrote in post #16154524 (external link)
Without question!

Then this thread should be put back on track relative to the CL180 and CL360 in the non hypersync usage, as Edward requested. I'm making this comment on my own volition because I think these units are a great alternative to a number of portable flash options and I've been recommending the link to this thread, digging through the minutia of oversynch makes it difficult to reasonably vet out the basic information.


Would you like to buy a vowel?
Go ahead, spin the wheel.
flickr (external link)
I'm accross the canal just south of Ballard, the town Seattle usurped in 1907.

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
silvrbullet
Senior Member
Avatar
617 posts
Likes: 3
Joined Apr 2009
Location: Kansas
     
Jul 26, 2013 13:34 |  #1950

There has been some question on using the Cheetah lights with a PLM. This is how I primarily use my CL-180, so I thought I would post an example.


IMAGE: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5452/9370236367_6acf0457e2_b.jpg


This was taken with a 51" extreme silver PLM with diffusion fabric. The PLM is reverse mounted via a 3/8" steel rod going into a grip head. The steel rod is held in place by the 8-32 set screw on the end of the PLM (I have replaced it with a longer screw, and drilled a dimple in the 3/8" rod for safety).

The rod insert that holds the PCB cage has an 5/16-24 thread to accommodate the supplied bolt for attaching the cage. I couldn't find a shoulder bolt long enough, so I tapped the other end of the shaft to accept a 5/16-18 thread. I thread the shoulder bolt through the Cheetah umbrella holder, and through the umbrella reflector, then screw it into the rod insert. Completely secure.

That might be confusing as hell... Maybe I should post a pic of the setup..

Sony A7RII | Zeiss Batis 2.8/18 | Fuji X-T1 | 23 F/1.4

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as a registered member)

1,396,740 views & 273 likes for this thread
A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives
FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
AAA
x 1600
y 1600

Jump to forum...   •  Rules   •  Index   •  New posts   •  RTAT   •  'Best of'   •  Gallery   •  Gear   •  Reviews   •  Member list   •  Polls   •  Image rules   •  Search   •  Password reset

Not a member yet?
Register to forums
Registered members may log in to forums and access all the features: full search, image upload, follow forums, own gear list and ratings, likes, more forums, private messaging, thread follow, notifications, own gallery, all settings, view hosted photos, own reviews, see more and do more... and all is free. Don't be a stranger - register now and start posting!


COOKIES DISCLAIMER: This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and to our privacy policy.
Privacy policy and cookie usage info.


POWERED BY AMASS forum software 2.1forum software
version 2.1 /
code and design
by Pekka Saarinen ©
for photography-on-the.net

Latest registered member is m.nobles
892 guests, 245 members online
Simultaneous users record so far is 15144, that happened on Nov 22, 2018

Photography-on-the.net Digital Photography Forums is the website for photographers and all who love great photos, camera and post processing techniques, gear talk, discussion and sharing. Professionals, hobbyists, newbies and those who don't even own a camera -- all are welcome regardless of skill, favourite brand, gear, gender or age. Registering and usage is free.