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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 26 Jan 2013 (Saturday) 10:20
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A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

 
amirg
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Sep 16, 2013 13:42 |  #2506

janmi wrote in post #16300182 (external link)
But I would like to use the wireless remote AND put a SB-900 on the hotshoe at the same time. What are the best solutions to do this? I think one way is to use a wireless trigger with a hot shoe passthrough, and the wireless remote is then off-camera.

This is what I do. It works well and allows any flash to be used in the pass-through. If you don't already have the flash or are willing to switch, then the Mitros+ noted by elv may be an interesting option as well.


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dmward
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Sep 16, 2013 13:48 |  #2507

JaycYu wrote in post #16301221 (external link)
Is it appropriate to write a review about the CL-360 here + photos?
Thanks in advance for the info on this thread. It makes gambling the purchase— as my first flash unit of any kind— less nerve wrecking.

I flicked through some of your gallery and really like your high key images. Especially those with eye lashes in focus and also the black element.

Looking forward to seeing what you do with the CL-360. Also, reading your impressions and what you use to modify the light.


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JaycYu
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Sep 16, 2013 15:34 |  #2508

IMAGE: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5521/9777447915_9d17a22872_c.jpg
-CL-360 in a 43" softbox umbrella + 42" white reflector

IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Redirected to error image by FLICKR

-Brittnie Rae

IMAGE: http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3681/9777465665_6a11f1d0f1_c.jpg
-Sun + 42" diffuser + 42" white reflector. This is my default setup without flash.

IMAGE: http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x369/demongix/Box/8b501fa2-b193-46e6-96df-8894747d0ddb_zpsd239c67b.jpg
-Control shot, in shade without flash (I triggered before the capacitors charged)
-All shots are taken on the same shoot with a 5DII Canon full-spectrum mod + 930nm IR filter + 85mm f/1.2.
-Photos are not retouched.
-Full resolution + Exif data can be found in my secondary flickr stream:
http://www.flickr.com/​photos/94410435@N03/ (external link)

[Pro]
-Bare bulb fills an umbrella evenly.
-Nice belt clip on the battery. It looks nice on the belt. It's light, and lighter than the head. The capacity indicator is an appealing design.
-Compact enough to fit the flash head + cable with my grape-fruit lens and 5DII in a Nova 180 AW Lowpro bag
-Side threads
-Non-hotshoe bottom
-Small battery-less receiver
-Love hearing that capacitor charge during power-up
-Durable, thick cables
-I like the dial, much like Canon's prosumer goods
-The top halve tilts below the 90°, though it does not make contact with the bottom except at its joint. Taping 0.5cm objects between the gap can redirect the weight evenly.
-I like how it looks like a Pocket-Wizard ii. With a nice large hotshoe locking ring, the Cells II doesn't have the PW logo, but it's good enough for me.
-Simple operation. In HSS, light control is intuitive, even for a newby like myself. Already at the minimum power of 1/8, I stacked paper on bulb to balance the light on the model with the light in the leaf background (with the BG a few stops darker). Then I use the shutter speed (between 1/800 and 1/3000) to properly expose, just like without flash.
-Fast email communication/support
-Powerful, though I haven't drawn upon the unit's full potential yet
-Strobes' reviews cover many positives. My points are the impressions fortified after use.
-Designed in Texas

[Con]
-The fat CL-360 loses the slick curves of its CL-180 form.
-There is only one expensive international shipping option, though it arrived in 5 work days. Surprisingly, the gear I ordered at the same time from eBay/Asia arrived with Cheetah's stuff at the same time.
-In HSS, 1/8 power takes equally long to charge as 1/1 (two seconds which cripples my speed)
-HSS can't set below 1/8 power. The CL-360 is too powerful for me atm. I had to use 5 layers of paper as a ND filter. The paper is an insulator, and is unhealthy for the bulb. If it isn't a plain paper, the ink will liquify at 1/1 power, on top of a depressing burning smell.
-The protruding dialing wheel and the dials on the transmitters/receiver are vulnerable to bumps.
-The USB receiver is vulnerable.
-The test button on the Cells II is large and shallow, resulting in a lot of misfires when dismounting from the hotshoe.
-The hotshoe mounting-plate screws need an exactly matching screw driver. I was lucky my old man had an appropriate Philip set on the night before the shoot.
-The locking mechanism on the batt is plastic-ish, and may eventually wear down.
-As a flashaholic, the 2x red 5mm LED's err me. A red (or even a warm-white) Cree XP-E driven at 4W with low-high levels would be a proud addition.
-The Cells II test button is too large and shallow; there were at least 5 accidental triggers during my last shoot. Like many said, I hope power-remote + HSS get combined in the next transmitter design.
-A bit expensive at around 1 grand, though the halved weight compared to a Alien Bees/VML setup is the correct choice for me, as I plan to secure a second unit and have to carry everything during transit.
-The bulb slot is black. A white surface would reclaim light, and resist heat build up.
-The battery pack feels a little hollow, meaning it can be made smaller or can be filled with more lithium + components.

[Note]
-On the CL site, the initial stated shipping cost was $130 to Canada, but the actual cost was only $67 after placing the order. The price does not include pre-paid taxes and duties.
-Addicted to torches through flashlight photography, and bought a few Li-on cells, the chemistry has its risks, namingly fire and its toxic smoke. Even 2 tiny CR123's after exploding have enough hazardous gaseous material to hospitalize someone with lung and kidney damage, subsequent to breathing that stuff in for 30 minutes. I can't tell if the Cheetah lithium uses 4x 18650's or a single RC battery pack, but 11V 4500mah is good energy density; in either case, the increased size (by comparison to a 6P torch) improves the capacity, current draw, and safety.

[Setup]
-Swivel mount hadn't arrived. With its side screw centering it to the umbrella, the CL-360 directly mounted the lightstand at 90°.
-43" silver umbrella with built in diffuser. I stuffed 3 sheets of white paper behind the ribs to diffuse the light more. It still collapsed well. The shaft was really in the model's face. The detachable rod of a Softlighter II is in my next purchase list. The light source size from the 43" was effectively less than of a 42" diffuser + sunlight— maybe it was the rod that distanced the umbrella. The 43" produced a pretty creamy light, though I was unknowingly overexposing during the shoot. A 42" white reflector was inadequate to balance the light. I'll try the silver next, hoping a mirroring of soft light is still soft light.
-The umbrella was mounted via one reusable ziptie.
-The umbrella light was much more solid without looking like it's coming from a bare-bulb. Sometimes sunlight through a diffuser make the skin too translucent to be acceptable.
-A 60" Softligher will better use the flash's abundant power.

My flickr pictures (external link)

  
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mmmfotografie
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Sep 16, 2013 17:05 |  #2509

[QUOTE=JaycYu;16301535​]

[Pro]
-Designed in Texas - Nope, China
-I always hoped to mount a transmitter with a form like the first-gen pocket-wizard. With a nice large hotshoe locking ring, the Cells II doesn't have the PW logo, but who with me can tell. - Nope
-Simple operation. In HSS, light control is intuitive, even for a newby like myself. Already at the minimum power of 1/8, I stacked paper on bulb to balance the light on the model with the light in the leaf background (with the BG a few stops darker). Then I use the shutter speed (between 1/800 and 1/3000) to properly expose, just like without flash. - Why are you on HSS

[Con]
-There is only one expensive international shipping option, though it arrived in 5 work days. Surprisingly, the gear I ordered at the same time from eBay/Asia arrived with Cheetah's stuff at the same time. I was like WTF, and the deliveryman asked suspiciously whether the umbrella was mine, and after receiving an affirmative, he checked the bar-code again anyways. - at least you can order it with Cheetha
-In HSS, 1/8 power takes equally long to charge as 1/1 (two seconds which cripples my speed) - actually 1/8 is almost instant recharge
-HSS can't set below 1/8 power. The CL-360 is too powerful for me atm. I had to use 5 layers of paper as a ND filter. - again why are you on HSS
-The hotshoe mounting-plate screws need an exactly matching screw driver - quite normal
-The battery pack feels a little hollow, meaning it can be made smaller or can be filled with more lithium + components. - 6000 mAh is comming

If you use the flash in non-HSS mode you can go as low as 1/128 power so no need for layers of paper and instant recycle time.

Great pictures by the way!




  
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Meddin ­ Studios
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Sep 16, 2013 18:58 |  #2510

Damian - with a +3 you get a cheap trigger that is on a separate zone from your TTL stuff (allowing independent on/off and separate trigger options) while still giving full frame HSS coverage. I like them because they are simple, robust and play nice with studio strobes.

The problem with the CL-Tx and HSS is that you lose your pass through shoe so you can't use an AC3. You CAN however use your Sekonic without an AC3 and still control power levels (of your TTL lights) and trigger the CL's for metering (since the TT1 receives the firing signal from Sekonic).
You can also place a CL-Tx in a TT1/5 hotshoe mounted off camera or use the new PW hotshoe to 1/8" adapter and use a +3 on a stand with the CL-Tx to trigger all your CL's.

Elv - great news on the radio Mitros! I think they did a stellar job on the first one. Now we're still in the dilemma of losing a pass through hotshoe with the Odin Tx or losing remote power control with the Mitros+ in the hotshoe. Unlesssss the Mitros+ includes some Odin remote power options!?




  
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Chad ­ D
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Sep 16, 2013 20:18 |  #2511

now waiting on a M4/3 flash solution :)

thanks again for the great site and work ya do for those that love light :)

elv wrote in post #16301012 (external link)
Phottix have just announced a Mitros + flash unit, which is sure to have built in radio -

http://flashhavoc.com …ix-mitros-plus-announced/ (external link)

As much as I'd prefer not to have extra receivers, this is likely going to be the best option for TTL flash on camera, because you don't have to mess with any pass through hotshoes or second transmitter connected to the camera. Odin receivers on the Cheetah lights would fire them with HSS.
.


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philpeterson
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Sep 16, 2013 20:24 |  #2512

mmmfotografie wrote in post #16301759 (external link)
6000 mAh is comming

From Godox? What's the timeframe?


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CheetahStand
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Sep 16, 2013 20:54 |  #2513

philpeterson wrote in post #16302256 (external link)
From Godox? What's the timeframe?

Just to make this clear,We do not have plan to make 6000mAh.
If we do, will first let POTN members know.
We have plan for 1200W studio light.one second 10 pops.Diration 1/20000 sec.Can work with CL-Tx/Rx.
Stay tune......


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philpeterson
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Sep 16, 2013 21:08 |  #2514

CheetahStand wrote in post #16302331 (external link)
Just to make this clear,We do not have plan to make 6000mAh.
If we do, will first let POTN members know.
We have plan for 1200W studio light.one second 10 pops.Diration 1/20000 sec.Can work with CL-Tx/Rx.
Stay tune......

Thanks for clearing that up.


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Chad ­ D
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Sep 16, 2013 21:47 |  #2515

thinking out loud :)
would be cool if a cheetah/godox mono could be built using two of the batteries (4500 current ones from the CL packs) so we have a true high power mobile
and of course be able to use regular power :)
or even a pack head system

CheetahStand wrote in post #16302331 (external link)
Just to make this clear,We do not have plan to make 6000mAh.
If we do, will first let POTN members know.
We have plan for 1200W studio light.one second 10 pops.Diration 1/20000 sec.Can work with CL-Tx/Rx.
Stay tune......


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HappyFish.com (external link) - post production services for professional photographers

  
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ZoranC
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Sep 17, 2013 00:05 |  #2516

CheetahStand wrote in post #16302331 (external link)
We have plan for 1200W studio light.one second 10 pops.Diration 1/20000 sec.Can work with CL-Tx/Rx.

Shweeet! Looking forward to hearing more about it :cool:




  
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butterfly2937
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Sep 17, 2013 00:07 |  #2517

amirg wrote in post #16301248 (external link)
This is what I do. It works well and allows any flash to be used in the pass-through. If you don't already have the flash or are willing to switch, then the Mitros+ noted by elv may be an interesting option as well.

You could use odins and a flash bracket. The odins will fire both canon flashes and CL. I use a promedia gear boomerang bracket and love it.


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mmmfotografie
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Sep 17, 2013 03:10 |  #2518

CheetahStand wrote in post #16302331 (external link)
Just to make this clear,We do not have plan to make 6000mAh.
If we do, will first let POTN members know.
We have plan for 1200W studio light.one second 10 pops.Diration 1/20000 sec.Can work with CL-Tx/Rx.
Stay tune......

I stand corrected and it is a cooperation between Cheetahstand and Godox.

The 6000 mAh was listed over here as coming soon and I can still order it in the shops. However the firm that imports and distributes Godox in our country has taken the 6000 mAh of their site.




  
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DamianOz
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Sep 17, 2013 03:34 |  #2519

DamianOz wrote in post #16297511 (external link)
Thank you, very helpful.
My Sekonic light meter has a PW transmitter built in, your test has swayed me to get a TT1, now to try and find out what frequency my Sekonic L-478DR Tx uses, 433MHz or 344MHz (or some other). Any one know how to find out?

For general information.
Sekonic L-478DR Serial numbers
serial number starting with JR21- = CE frequency model
serial number starting with JR22- = FCC&IC frequency model


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amirg
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Sep 17, 2013 08:58 |  #2520

butterfly2937 wrote in post #16302740 (external link)
You could use odins and a flash bracket. The odins will fire both canon flashes and CL. I use a promedia gear boomerang bracket and love it.

That's actually what I used to do to have an on-camera fill with the Odins. I gave it up quickly though as I found the set-up bulky for weddings. With something like the Stratos I don't need the bracket and the result is more compact.


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