A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

Wait why cant you get a curled cable? Why did you need to do it yourself?

mt99 wrote in post #16397682
Wait why cant you get a curled cable? Why did you need to do it yourself?

If you can't get or buy it then you have to do it yourself.

Why I needed it: https://photography-on-the.net …p=16371028&post​count=2800

elv wrote in post #16396917
Hi David, with the baby I wasn't using H mode. It was really nothing to do with the camera settings, just the light was too bright and kept upsetting him. All I could do was raise the light further away (which changes the effect).

I just carry the Multi Boom, a stand, and Apollo style softbox (as they all wrap neatly together in a compact package). So I was actually able to boom the Multi Boom directly overhead with a gridded Phottix octobox.

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This is becoming a plug now for the Multi Boom but it really is handy to be able to boom it straight over like this (without carrying a boom) -

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H mode is the same story, but portrait outside in bright light, high shutter speed and the same softbox just a foot or so away.

I don't have a big problem because I'm only using about F2, and a crop camera which doesn't get the banding pattern at 1/8th power. People trying to use the 5D at F1.4 etc are running into more problems. Ideally you want to use 1/4 power to avoid any pattern issues there as well. (So an ND cap you could just clip on and off the light quickly would really be helpful for some people).
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Nice shot Elv.
Still confused about too much power. 1/128th power in normal mode is 2.5 Ws. That's not much light going through the modifier.

And I too like the mini boom for exactly the same reason.

[QUOTE=JESUS PADILLA;16363143][QUOT​E=mmmfotografie;163624​02]

Well Basically Cheetah Lights Changed completely (for good ) the way i work..i am a wedding photographer,,and i need the best tools i might buy to make properly my job...i got in my bag 9 canon 580 EX II flashes, 4 Einstein and lots of modifiers, since i bought my cheetah lights i have not used my canon and Einstein any more...jejej i am not worried about charging a hundred batteries in the case of my canon flashes,,,i am not worried about recycling....i am not worried about carrying a lot of weight in the case of my einsteins,,,LOVE , LOVE my Cheetah Lights!...i used them the whole wedding and never run out batteries,,i used them at full power , minimum power and control everything from camera....CHEETAH LIGHTS are the lights i have been waiting!!....JUST LOVE THEM!

AT MINIMUM POWER GRIDED AND GELLED

symbolphoto wrote in post #16393540
Could one put the CL360 on top of the YN-622c and fire it?

In the Nikon (don't know about Canon) world, it's possible to put a Pocketwizard Flex or Mini in the camera's hotshoe, and then put a speedlight in the shoe of the Flex/Mini. If wanted, the speedlight can be configured to "AF-Assist Only" mode to prevent it from actually firing. The downside, of course, is that the CL-xxx devices need to have PW receivers. My D4 can focus in extremely low light, so although AF assist on the camera body could be a useful feature, it's pretty low on my priority list.

mt99 wrote in post #16397379
If I try to use a nikon sc-28 cord with the cheetah/genesis transmitter, it will not fire. I tried 4 phottix ttl cords and one nikon original sc-28 cord. I think the center pin is not making contact. If i place a phottix strato II transmitter on the shoe of the camera and place the cheetah transmitter on a phottix strato receiver, it fires the flash fine.

I have not had problem firing with any camera I have put transmitter on but I haven't tried it on any cable yet (as I don't see need for that). I do have few cables here and I will try when I have a chance.

mmmfotografie wrote in post #16397524
I am happy with my DIY skills and I can use the rest of the 5 meter as extension cable.

I am glad you are happy with DIY route. Me, half an hour of my time is worth to me more than one 9' cable costs. And manufacturer can always do it better than I can.

Just a quick question before I order the cellsII-c for my 5D3.

So with the CL-360 at 1/1 power and NOT in HSS mode, will it do "long burn" (HyperSync I guess?) or am I stuck at 1/200 max sync shutter speed?

I know that at 1/1 power in regular mode, I can get around 75 pops. I would much rather prefer that over 10-15 pops in HSS mode.

So the idea is to be able to shoot at say 1/8000 with the CL-360 in regular mode. (M mode) Is that even possible?

Just need clarification before I place an order.

Thanks!

[QUOTE=BigIronCruiser;​16399320]

JESUS PADILLA wrote in post #16363143
Jesus: Can you post a picture that shows how you're putting gels on the Cheetah's?

I won't answer for Jesus but what I do is simply Velcro my gels to the reflectors or if I'm not using reflectors, I will make a tube from my gels and slip it over the bulb.

ZoranC wrote in post #16399717
I have not had problem firing with any camera I have put transmitter on but I haven't tried it on any cable yet (as I don't see need for that). I do have few cables here and I will try when I have a chance.

OK, I have put one end of genuine Nikon SC-28 on my camera and plugged CL TX on other end, fired off half a dozen shots and not a single misfire.

Okay thanks for trying. I will need to troubleshoot further thanks

nicksan wrote in post #16399768
Just a quick question before I order the cellsII-c for my 5D3.

So with the CL-360 at 1/1 power and NOT in HSS mode, will it do "long burn" (HyperSync I guess?) or am I stuck at 1/200 max sync shutter speed?


I know that at 1/1 power in regular mode, I can get around 75 pops. I would much rather prefer that over 10-15 pops in HSS mode.

So the idea is to be able to shoot at say 1/8000 with the CL-360 in regular mode. (M mode) Is that even possible?

Just need clarification before I place an order.

Thanks!

Yes that is correct it will do the long burn at anything from 1/200th up. I don't have the 5DIII, but David is saying he doesn't get any shutter in the image with that combination either.

As mentioned grab the 2 into 1 power cable, that's much better in any case.
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elv wrote in post #16399990
Yes that is correct it will do the long burn at anything from 1/200th up. I don't have the 5DIII, but David is saying he doesn't get any shutter in the image with that combination either.

As mentioned grab the 2 into 1 power cable, that's much better in any case.
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This sounds promising. My understanding is that the cellsII-C needs to be mounted on the hot shoe to do this as opposed to it being connected via PC sync cable. Is this correct?

nicksan wrote in post #16400691
This sounds promising. My understanding is that the cellsII-C needs to be mounted on the hot shoe to do this as opposed to it being connected via PC sync cable. Is this correct?

Yes it needs the full TTL contacts to receive the pre-sync signal.

Its also quite sensitive, so it won't work on anything (like pass through hotshoes etc) other than mounted DIRECTLY on the cameras hotshoe.
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nicksan wrote in post #16400691
This sounds promising. My understanding is that the cellsII-C needs to be mounted on the hot shoe to do this as opposed to it being connected via PC sync cable. Is this correct?

Yes, it has to have the control pin contact with camera so the camera will go past x-sync.
I did a test at 1/8000 second on 5DIII CL-360 at full power then at full power H mode and then down to 1/8 power H mode. The full power burn is long enough to cover the shutter travel. (this is also true for 180)

Two into one cable shortens recycle time but should not affect the thermal slowdown since that is capacitor/electronics driven.

Nick HERE is an article where I describe using the CL-360 with FP sync including the full power configuration.