A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

Well I have read this for so long, I have forgot most of it.
5D MKii with pw tt1 in hotshoe AC3 in tt5
360 in tt5
360 in tt5
This will work without cables?
Full manual control yes?
Without AC3 full wireless ettl yes?

BamPhoto wrote in post #16400948
Well I have read this for so long, I have forgot most of it.
5D MKii with pw tt1 in hotshoe AC3 in tt5
360 in tt5
360 in tt5
This will work without cables?
Full manual control yes?
Without AC3 full wireless ettl yes?

NO Ettl at all.

To even use Manual settings you will need a second transmitter to control the output of the 360's and both the PW receiver and the Godox receiver will need to be plugged into the 360 at the same time.

AC3 only controls power for ETTL capable speedlites and certain Elinchrom and Buff monolights with ControlTL control modules.

With some setup in firmware the FlexTT5 hotshoe may be able to fire a Cheetah Light placed in the hotshoe. Not sure if anyone has confirmed this capability.

dmward wrote in post #16402124
With some setup in firmware the FlexTT5 hotshoe may be able to fire a Cheetah Light placed in the hotshoe. Not sure if anyone has confirmed this capability.

Many times. If Godox/Cheethastand and PocketWizard would want it even the receiver could be modified to trigger and control the flash power trough a TT1/TTt+AC3. They are using the same frequencies.

mmmfotografie wrote in post #16402410
Many times. If Godox/Cheethastand and PocketWizard would want it even the receiver could be modified to trigger and control the flash power trough a TT1/TTt+AC3. They are using the same frequencies.

Frequency is the least of it.
With Elinchrom and Alien Bee/Einstein receivers they were designed by Pocket Wizard, with help from the lighting manufacturer to ensure they got the protocols right for controlling the light. When I beta tested the MC2 for Einstein there were issues that they couldn't seem to get fixed.

I think that Godox and most of the Chinese manufacturers see themselves has having eclipsed Pocket Wizard.

And it seems PW is most interested in the lighting companies with sufficient market presence to justify their development investment. I doubt that Godox AD series light have risen to that level.

You can fire a 180/360 by putting a CL-Tx on a TT5 and thus the CL-Tx fires the CL-Rx that are attached to the lights. However you can not put a 180/360 onto a TT5 hotshoe directly and fire it. You must use the P2 port and run to the sync port on the light.

I can't wait for the Mitros+ to finally land on Amazon. They'll compliment the Cheetahs nicely as the "specials, fills, peppers, etc" while the Cheetahs play as a nice Key for bigger setups. Either that or Yongnuo whomever gets to the market first.

I just can't do the whole PW thing any more. Just give me an Odin or 600EX Tx setup and I'm set. I ditched my 478 meters and stuck with the tried and true 758's. The touchscreen is cool but after a while I was fussing with the whole system too much between AC3's and HSS settings and timing adjustments and +3 vs TT5 vs using a meter or not using one. After I got burned on a wedding from 580EX misfires (which were fully socked), I'm hanging up the towel and going Phottix or Yongnuo. Yongnuo will likely win the bet since they have AF lights. Interesting times ahead.

Meddin Studios wrote in post #16404539
.... I ditched my 478 meters and stuck with the tried and true 758's. The touchscreen is cool but after a while I was fussing with the whole system too much between AC3's and HSS settings and timing adjustments and +3 vs TT5 vs using a meter or not using one. After I got burned on a wedding from 580EX misfires (which were fully socked), I'm hanging up the towel and going Phottix or Yongnuo. Yongnuo will likely win the bet since they have AF lights. Interesting times ahead.

Maybe the famous 580EX II noise that is interfering with the operation of PocketWizards. PocketWizard even had to produce shields to keep the noise the 580EX II is transmitting contained. Other firms offered to modifying the 580EX II to reduce the noise output.

http://www.pocketwizar​d.com …rations/technol​ogy/range/

http://www.pocketwizar​d.com …ts/other_gear/r​f_shields/

A 580EX II modified to reduce noise: http://www.pocketwizar​d.com …ch_bulletins/58​0exii_mod/

dmward wrote in post #16400831
Yes, it has to have the control pin contact with camera so the camera will go past x-sync.
I did a test at 1/8000 second on 5DIII CL-360 at full power then at full power H mode and then down to 1/8 power H mode. The full power burn is long enough to cover the shutter travel. (this is also true for 180)

Two into one cable shortens recycle time but should not affect the thermal slowdown since that is capacitor/electronics driven.

Nick HERE is an article where I describe using the CL-360 with FP sync including the full power configuration.

Very informative article on FP Sync.

However, I just want to make sure I understood correctly regarding NOT using the CL-360 in H mode but still being able to use the long burn to shoot high shutter speeds with my 5D3 + CellsII-C.

So essentially, I have to of course put the CL-360 in normal mode (not H mode), but leave my camera in HSS mode so I am able to shoot at higher shutter speeds? Or is it that having the CellsII-C mounted on the hot shoe will allow me to use high shutter speeds?

My apologies for these silly questions. Just trying to wrap my brain around this!

BTW, I placed an order for the 2-in-1 cable, flash bulb protector, some more cables, etc. Looking forward to the 2-in-1 cable in particular.

nicksan wrote in post #16405089
Very informative article on FP Sync.

However, I just want to make sure I understood correctly regarding NOT using the CL-360 in H mode but still being able to use the long burn to shoot high shutter speeds with my 5D3 + CellsII-C.

So essentially, I have to of course put the CL-360 in normal mode (not H mode), but leave my camera in HSS mode so I am able to shoot at higher shutter speeds? Or is it that having the CellsII-C mounted on the hot shoe will allow me to use high shutter speeds?

My apologies for these silly questions. Just trying to wrap my brain around this!

BTW, I placed an order for the 2-in-1 cable, flash bulb protector, some more cables, etc. Looking forward to the 2-in-1 cable in particular.

Nick,
The Cells-IIc is required in the camera hot shoe. The control pins tell the camera that an FP capable device is attached. That's what permits the shutter speed to go above x-sync. Then just use the light as you would normally. Ambient exposure settings, then place the light. If 1/1 is too much go to H mode 1/1, that's about 1 EV down, then down from there as necessary.

dmward wrote in post #16405153
Nick,
The Cells-IIc is required in the camera hot shoe. The control pins tell the camera that an FP capable device is attached. That's what permits the shutter speed to go above x-sync. Then just use the light as you would normally. Ambient exposure settings, then place the light. If 1/1 is too much go to H mode 1/1, that's about 1 EV down, then down from there as necessary.

Thanks for the clarification. Yeah, the whole idea is to avoid going to H mode due to the limited amount of pops. If 1/1 is too much, I'll deal with it in other ways. (stop the lens down or use ND filters) For the way I usually work, this is a much better solution than H mode. I view H mode as a nice to have in emergency situations, that is unless you are not going over the 10-15 pops limit. I do...and obviously learned the hard way. It's VERY easy to shoot 5 shots here, then move and 2 minutes later shoot another 5, and so on. The next thing you know, you can't use the flash for 10-15min. I would rather avoid that scenario entirely.

Nick,
I just did a quick test. Full power 2 to 1 cable. Fired the 360 22 times in 1 minute 20 seconds. About 3 second recycle time. I fired frames faster than that which did not have flash fire. Just to get a feel for how fast one could shoot with this setup. I'd say if you give yourself 3 seconds between shots you'll be good. Also, 5 to 8 shots then move you should be able to go all day.

1/8000 F2.8, ISO100, with 16" collapsible octa and diffusion panel about 30" from Manny. That's two stops below sunny outside background for test.

HERE is a post in another thread that shows three different modifiers mounted on the 360. Camera settings were: 1/8000, ISO 100, F 2.8. The camera meter read 0 for ambient in background at 1/4000, ISO 100, F1.4.

Meddin Studios wrote in post #16404539
I can't wait for the Mitros+ to finally land on Amazon. They'll compliment the Cheetahs nicely as the "specials, fills, peppers, etc" ....

I asked Phottix on their facebook page about ODS support for the Mitros+ they said "ODS will most likely not be implemented to the Mitros+. That poses a lot of technical challenges when an on-board flash / transmitter combo is use."

Which I understand, but makes it a little less useful.

Meddin Studios wrote in post #16404539
After I got burned on a wedding from 580EX misfires (which were fully socked)...

mmmfotografie wrote in post #16404971
Maybe the famous 580EX II noise that is interfering with the operation of PocketWizards. PocketWizard even had to produce shields to keep the noise the 580EX II is transmitting contained. Other firms offered to modifying the 580EX II to reduce the noise output.

He said they were fully socked.

Gareth ONeill wrote in post #16405727
=Gareth O'Neill;16405727]He said they were fully socked.

I found the socks to be unreliable. Only real solution is to modify the 580EXs or, as I did, get Nissin Di866s. They work like a charm without any modification and are certified by PW.

(I have three for sale now that ControlTL has been sold. )