A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

Did an engagement shoot Sunday.
Used a CL-360 with three modifiers, depending on the shot. 11" high output reflector. Its the Buff reflector that I taped an adapter onto so it would slide onto the CL-360. Also used the standard 5" reflector for a couple of shots. And the 19" collapsible octa with diffusion panel on the front and my 4" deflector disk. The first image was with the 19" octa about 3 feet from the couple. 200mm L at F4, 1/800 second ISO 100. The light was about 1/8 Hmode. Second image is with the 11" reflector about 20 feet away. I discovered that even at that distance a 29* cone has to be carefully aimed. 200mm F2.8, 1/2000 second, ISO 100. The light was about 1/4 H mode.

In both images the sun is creating the rim light.

Just a quick update on my situation.

I'm not going to get into details, but thanks to Edward Tang at Cheetah, I now have a fully functioning CL-180. There was definitely something wrong with it. I used it at a wedding I shot this past weekend towards the end of the night when the guests were dancing. I mounted it on-camera and bounced at 1/2 to 1/4 power and was getting very nice results. So much more power than a speedlite. No issues so far. Hopefully it remains that way.

In fact, I had 2 CL-360 on light stands at the reception and absolutely zero issues. I mean, there wasn't any issue with the CL-360s. It was a bad cable. Just glad I have it all sorted out. I've got 2 more weddings left. Looking forward to using these.

Hello everyone!

I have a question about the output (GN?) of CL-180/CL-360.

I just got my AD360 today.
then I did a simple test to campare with CL180/CL360.
It's so weird ....both CL180 and CL360 have the same exposure !!??
I use Sekonic L-308 Light Meter to test.

Here are the settings：
Distance -- 1M (100cm)
ISO -- 100
Speed -- 1/250s
with standard reflecor

Test Result -- F32.7~32.9

Is this correct？
or maybe i got a a flaw CL360???


Please excuse my bad english...

Drop to 1/160s and more distance between the meter and the flash.

dmward wrote in post #16424303
Did an engagement shoot Sunday.
Used a CL-360 with three modifiers, depending on the shot. 11" high output reflector. Its the Buff reflector that I taped an adapter onto so it would slide onto the CL-360. Also used the standard 5" reflector for a couple of shots. And the 19" collapsible octa with diffusion panel on the front and my 4" deflector disk. The first image was with the 19" octa about 3 feet from the couple. 200mm L at F4, 1/800 second ISO 100. The light was about 1/8 Hmode. Second image is with the 11" reflector about 20 feet away. I discovered that even at that distance a 29* cone has to be carefully aimed. 200mm F2.8, 1/2000 second, ISO 100. The light was about 1/4 H mode.

In both images the sun is creating the rim light.

On the second picture there are conflicting shades. The flash is hars and should a bit closer to you.

Just tested at 5 feet, flash set to full power, sekonic L-358, iso 100, shutter speed 200, meter at a height of flash and standard reflector with diffuser removed:

AD180= F32
AD360= F51

You must be doing something differently

mt99 wrote in post #16426609
Just tested at 5 feet, flash set to full power, sekonic L-358, iso 100, shutter speed 200, meter at a height of flash and standard reflector with diffuser removed:

AD180= F32
AD360= F51

You must be doing something differently

Thank you mt99!!

I tried again like your setting.

5 feet / iso 100 / speed 200 / full power (1/1)
meter at a height of flash and standard reflector with diffuser removed

My result
AD180=F29
AD360=F32

This afternoon I took some pics in a dark room.

1920 x 1281

EMBED PREVENTED, IMAGE TOO LARGE: http://farm8.staticfli​ckr.com …95730534_5bc028​22ca_o.jpg Click here to see our image rules.

1920 x 1281

EMBED PREVENTED, IMAGE TOO LARGE: http://farm3.staticfli​ckr.com …95728384_f22b82​2365_o.jpg Click here to see our image rules.

mmmfotografie wrote in post #16426582
On the second picture there are conflicting shades. The flash is hars and should a bit closer to you.

Not sure about the conflicting shadows. The sun was just about opposite the camera.

I decided I wanted the light more off axis have some with it just about on camera axis but like this better for this shot. Light is harsh because its an 11" high output reflector about 20 feet away. Locating the light was a bit of a challenge because of the tall grass and bushes in the area. Didn't want to do any ecological damage getting the shot.

You'll notice that the shadow transitions are just about as sharp in the first picture (profiles) this was done with a 19" collapsible octal and diffusion panel. The light was about 4 or 5 feet away. Still far enough to loose most of the wrap.

Outside I'm less interested in getting gradual transitions more in getting balance between sun highlights and flash fill or counter lighting.

Do you have HSS enabled or anything set on the remotes that would reduce the power? I find this very strange. maybe you have HSS on

There are a couple of things going on here.
First, in my view, measuring flash output within a couple of feet in the center of the cone is problematic because one it measuring a very small percentage of all the light and also measuring it at the brightest point in the cone.

Also, measuring output in a room where light colored walls are relatively close is misleading because the light at the edge of the cone if reflected back toward the center metering point.

I think that 10 feet is minimum distance I would be more inclined to use 20 feet and also measure toward the edge of the cone. My recollection is that the spread of a reflector is determined by the arch of the cone that provides one EV less light at the edge compared to the center.

dmward wrote in post #16427116
I would be more inclined to use 20 feet and also measure toward the edge of the cone.

I would be inclined to use a different modifier.

mmmfotografie wrote in post #16422818
Ha an other Photobucket user. I really don't like they scale the pictures and they do it almost as worse as Facebook.

Read this page and use "Display linked out photos in original size. Scale yourself the picture and then upload it.

The problem is when using a better monitor to display Photobucket pictures you see artifacts in the highlights so a face of a person gets acne or even worse..........

I always say when putting pictures on Photobucket the quality of the picture also go down the bucket...eh drain.

So can I put images directly on here? PB is the only site I know that gives me a code so I can post images for display. If others have better method I would appreciate it if you would share. Thanks!

gomab1914 wrote in post #16427636
So can I put images directly on here? PB is the only site I know that gives me a code so I can post images for display. If others have better method I would appreciate it if you would share. Thanks!

Any web site that allows you to see the address (URL, i.e something starting with http://...) of the image, and that alows deep linking, i.e. direct-linking to images, can be used on POTN.

So you aren't limited to sites that have a special button with BBCode.

JESUS PADILLA wrote in post #16406882
Hi Every Body!! I just Want To share a Session o made last Saturday 19 images done with flash the amazing Cheetah Light CL 360 MOST OF THEM USING 3 lights..the location was complicated but the mobility of the set up cheetah lights with cheetah stands C8 was the perfect combo to move quickly i had plenty of power en using this equipment was a joy as a main light i use the Big soft box sold by cheetah stand and as a fill i used an 80 cm Octabox sold by the same vendor,,,and now because i picture say more than a thousand word let the picture do the talk...!!

Beautiful images, Jesus!
Do you meter your flash/ambient ratio or do you shoot with experience? If you meter them, would you remember what the ratios were?

TIA

mt99 wrote in post #16426959
Do you have HSS enabled or anything set on the remotes that would reduce the power? I find this very strange. maybe you have HSS on

I sure not HSS,
both AD180 and AD360 are in "M mode",
never be S1 or S2 or RPT mode.

whatever i use a FT16 remote or directly press "TEST" button on the flash
the result are the same........

It's really strange!!