A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

Do 180 and 360 use same or different flash tube? Could the AD360 have been fitted with the wrong tube?

I was thinking the exact same thing when I read no Hss used. I dont think you can use the wrong flash tube without it blowing up on the first pop if at full power. One bulb is rated at 180W the other at 360w. The ratings is not the same for the bulbs and I would think using the 180w bulb in the 360 at full Power would end in disaster and I would never try it!!!! This could injure or cause death!!!. Dont try it or mix the bulbs up. If all the settings are correct and the 360 is still not acting right, it may be time for a visit to the repair center.

If both flashes charges the cap with the same voltage, then the extra light from a AD360 either needs to come from a longer flash pulse or from the AD360 using a flash tube that draws more current. Alternatively, the AD360 steps up the voltage to a higher value internally.

No, I don't recommend experiments either without more information about actual differences between tubes in AD180 and AD360. If AD180 tube is rated for a lower voltage, then it could explode if put in the AD360. If AD360 tube is designed to draw more current, then it could damage the electronics of an AD180.

However - if the AD360 came with a spare tube, it would be a good idea to switch to the spare tube and see if there is a difference.

Do the tubes have the same socket?
Do they have any marking?

So I got the CellsII-C trigger. Was trying out the "long burn" method shooting my 5D3 at higher shutter speeds with the CL-360 at full power and in M mode. (Not HSS mode)

Unfortunately, I am seeing a little bit of the black shutter towards the very top of the frame. It's not tremendous but it's absolutely there to a point where I can't use this thing.

Anything I need to know about? This is what I am doing so far:

• CL-360 at 1/1 power in M mode. (Not in H mode)
  
• 5D3 + CellsII-C. Shutter speed of 1/8000 for example. This puts the 5D3 + CellsII-C combo in HSS mode via the flash settings in the camera.

Cheetah Lights Beating the sun

F22, ISO 100, 1/200S Canon 5D Mark III, Tamron 24-70mmf2.8 VC

Nick,
That's what I do. Only suggestion would be to make sure the Cells Iic has fresh alky batteries.
in FP sync the only way to get a shutter curtain is if the fire signal arrives late. That implies a timing problem. Which means something in the camera or propagation delay in the trigger.
Are you getting same behavior from more than one camera?

JESUS PADILLA wrote in post #16428142
Cheetah Lights Beating the sun

F22, ISO 100, 1/200S Canon 5D Mark III, Tamron 24-70mmf2.8 VC

amazing. care to tell us what modifier you used?

JESUS PADILLA wrote in post #16428142
Cheetah Lights Beating the sun

F22, ISO 100, 1/200S Canon 5D Mark III, Tamron 24-70mmf2.8 VC

best photographer using these

Jesus is producing amazing results.

abbadon31 wrote in post #16428494
best photographer using these

dmward wrote in post #16426929
Not sure about the conflicting shadows. The sun was just about opposite the camera.

I decided I wanted the light more off axis have some with it just about on camera axis but like this better for this shot. Light is harsh because its an 11" high output reflector about 20 feet away. Locating the light was a bit of a challenge because of the tall grass and bushes in the area. Didn't want to do any ecological damage getting the shot.

You'll notice that the shadow transitions are just about as sharp in the first picture (profiles) this was done with a 19" collapsible octal and diffusion panel. The light was about 4 or 5 feet away. Still far enough to loose most of the wrap.

Outside I'm less interested in getting gradual transitions more in getting balance between sun highlights and flash fill or counter lighting.

When using flaslight it is cheating reality so you have to look out for giveaways like sharp shadows like the sun is creating. Don't partly rotate softboxes when the reflection is good vissable in the eyes. In this picture the shadow on leg of the girl and the shadows on the ground are suggesting the are two suns.

The shadow on right shoulder of the girl is not a big give away that would disturb a viewer.

Is al about geting an optimal exposure without leaving clues.

up2you4 wrote in post #16427800
I sure not HSS,
both AD180 and AD360 are in "M mode",
never be S1 or S2 or RPT mode.

whatever i use a FT16 remote or directly press "TEST" button on the flash
the result are the same........

It's really strange!!

What if you leave the diffusers sheets in the reflector. To me the 360 gives a lot more light in your setup picture. As experiment set your 360 to 1/2 and make a new picture of both flashes firering.

I'd say Jesus is killing these, but it would sound oxymoronic.

dmward wrote in post #16428148
Nick,
That's what I do. Only suggestion would be to make sure the Cells Iic has fresh alky batteries.
in FP sync the only way to get a shutter curtain is if the fire signal arrives late. That implies a timing problem. Which means something in the camera or propagation delay in the trigger.
Are you getting same behavior from more than one camera?

Silly question and I apologize for not doing the leg work to find out. Is FP Sync the same as "long burn". Neither is HSS correct? Just want to make sure we are talking about the same thing. So this means the CL-360 in M mode (regular mode), and the 5D3 via the CellsII-C in HSS mode. Correct?

I used the batteries that came with the CellsII-C. I can certainly break out a new pair of Duracell or Energizer batteries and test. I can also test on another 5D3. I'll report back later tonight. I need this to work. Otherwise the trigger is absolutely useless to me.

JESUS PADILLA wrote in post #16428142
Cheetah Lights Beating the sun

F22, ISO 100, 1/200S Canon 5D Mark III, Tamron 24-70mmf2.8 VC

Beautiful photograph! Sun looks pretty low by the horizon. Nothing challenging here as far as "overpowering" the sun though.

Again, lovely work.