A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

Thanks David

Yes I have tried various options - the test button works and triggers the AD360 even when in situ on the 1D3. I can even get the Cells IIc to remotely triger the 1D3 via the cable release.

The 1D3 detects that there is a HSS capable device in the hot shoe but the settings are fixed within the camera menu - ie HSS, manual power 1/128 A+B+C the channel setting is a bit unusual states 143 options show 1,2,3,4 but these cannot be changed. I tried taping the pins on the Cells IIc, just to see if it would trigger without HSS, sans the centre but then the 1D3 said no flash attached so there must be other communication going on between the 1D3 and the trigger over the pins.

If I use a HSS capable strobe in the hot shoe then the menu options are fully open and HSS works as expected, so the 1D3 is functioning OK.

I can also shoot up to 1/320 with the AD360, at various power settings and the FT-16 trigger.

And when the Cells IIc are on the 700D it all works as expected and triggers the AD360 all the way up to 1/4000.

I am wondering if the Cells IIc version FW or changes have removed something which these older bodies require in order to make them compatible with the 5D3, 1DX.

There is the older version (non-C) of the trigger and maybe this is what is required to function with the 1D3.

dmward wrote in post #16510680
Does the Cells IIc fire the AD360 via the test button?
Make sure the selector switches are set to transmit and camera.
Does the camera indicate that an HSS capable speedlite is in the hot shoe?

I've also noticed, that when changing a camera setting it takes a half press on the shutter button to tell the camera to send the new info to the "speedlite" without doing this the first shot will be black because the camera thinks it has to update the speedlite with setting before it can send the FP-sync fire signal.

I doubt that they have removed anything.
It appears that there is a need to add some signaling that is unique to the 2012 cameras.
I have noticed that the 1D3 has issues with flash in some other circumstances but have no idea how they might relate.

Not sure what the next steps might be.

Ok thanks David - its not that I use HSS at all very often but the whole point of obtaining the Cells IIc was to have that ability if required. They do work within the group of AD360 when non-FT-16 strobes are connected but I also have V850 so these triggers may well become redundant until I upgrade the 1D to something more recent ..- will see how to track down their support .. apologies everyone as this was a bit off topic for the thread ....

dmward wrote in post #16510676
YN-622c in hot shoe, camera then can go beyond 1/200 in FP-sync mode. Camera thinks there is an HSS capable speedlite in the hot shoe. Then plug the second YN-622c into the CL-360 with a cable from the PC port on the YN-622c to the mini-jack on the CL-360.
Should fire all the way up to 1/8000 without shutter curtain shadow.
If you want less then full power CL-360 has to be switched into H mode via the two buttons on the back.

Remember when using this technique that the CL-360 is a "constant" light source and that shutter speed influences exposure along with F stop, and ISO. Naturally, power setting and distance of light from subject are also ways to control light on subject.

is FP-sync HSS? As in, in the canon 5d mk2's menu, under "external speedlite control" i have it set to ettl ii or manual flash and Hi-speed under shutter sync.

i have a yn 622c ontop of the camera, and a yn622c with PC to mini-jack connecting to the flash

flash is set to 1/1 - from 1/250 and above i get a black band on the top of the frame - its pretty thick too, not just a little black bar. it only works when i have the H mode on the flash

any ideas?

The 360 is set to H mode right?

How the CL/AD lights work with FP-sync:
A) at full power the flash duration is long enough to permit using any shutter speed. The camera has to have a Cells IIc, YN-622c or similar trigger in the hot shoe so that the camera will switch to FP-sync when the shutter speed is greater than x sync. This is NOT Canon High Speed Sync. The external flash menus seem to work but they are not linked to the flash units in any way. The only signal that gets from the YN-622 or Cells Ilc to the CL/AD flash is the fire signal.

If wanting to use the flash at less than full power it has to be placed into H mode by pressing the two buttons on the back of the flash. There is no way to place it into H mode remotely. Once its in H mode, the flash uses the same rapid flash cycling that Canon uses for HSS. The difference is that the CL/AD units are preset and the H mode flash is fired by the sync port.

When using H mode, the CL/AD flash unit is essentially a constant light source that is turned on for a fraction of a second by the sync pulse.

If you are getting a shutter curtain shadow it means that the timing between the camera and the trigger is off. My personal experience with 5DIII and an older Xsi is to not have the curtain shadow. Try slowing the shutter down from x-sync to a stop slower and see if that helps. If it eliminates the shadow trying moving the shutter speed up in 1/3 steps to see when the shadow appears.

The trigger propagation delay can be a factor, battery power and outside interference can influence it.

The YN-622 use 2.4GHz band which can be crowded, depending on the location. Try a couple of different channel options via the dip switches. It may help if you can find a cleaner channel.

dmward wrote in post #16514320
How the CL/AD lights work with FP-sync:
A) at full power the flash duration is long enough to permit using any shutter speed. The camera has to have a Cells IIc, YN-622c or similar trigger in the hot shoe so that the camera will switch to FP-sync when the shutter speed is greater than x sync. This is NOT Canon High Speed Sync. The external flash menus seem to work but they are not linked to the flash units in any way. The only signal that gets from the YN-622 or Cells Ilc to the CL/AD flash is the fire signal.

If wanting to use the flash at less than full power it has to be placed into H mode by pressing the two buttons on the back of the flash. There is no way to place it into H mode remotely. Once its in H mode, the flash uses the same rapid flash cycling that Canon uses for HSS. The difference is that the CL/AD units are preset and the H mode flash is fired by the sync port.

When using H mode, the CL/AD flash unit is essentially a constant light source that is turned on for a fraction of a second by the sync pulse.

If you are getting a shutter curtain shadow it means that the timing between the camera and the trigger is off. My personal experience with 5DIII and an older Xsi is to not have the curtain shadow. Try slowing the shutter down from x-sync to a stop slower and see if that helps. If it eliminates the shadow trying moving the shutter speed up in 1/3 steps to see when the shadow appears.

The trigger propagation delay can be a factor, battery power and outside interference can influence it.

The YN-622 use 2.4GHz band which can be crowded, depending on the location. Try a couple of different channel options via the dip switches. It may help if you can find a cleaner channel.

Thank you. will check tonight when I get home. I know deff at 1/250 black band is present. I haven't checked 1/200 with hss on in camera menu, but 1/200 with first curtain its fine.

Is it possible its my $3 sync cable that I'm using?

so ive tried again

i have fresh imedion batteries in my yn622c
i tried a few different channels - nothing changed with my results
H mode is OFF the flash, with 1/1 power
ettl with Hi-speed sync in 5D mk2 flash menu

im using the godox ad360. it was only bought recently - is it possible that the flash duration is different in newer models?

i shot at 1/100, 200, 250, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400 and 8000th. here are my results:

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/ronaldtan/11304​469215/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/ronaldtan/11304​504716/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/ronaldtan/11304​471405/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/ronaldtan/11304​472495/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/ronaldtan/11304​473745/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/ronaldtan/11304​530484/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/ronaldtan/11304​510696/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/ronaldtan/11304​577333/

here are my results with H mode ON

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/ronaldtan/11304​685553/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/ronaldtan/11304​642504/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/ronaldtan/11304​687753/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/ronaldtan/11304​688463/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/ronaldtan/11304​689213/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/ronaldtan/11304​645604/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/ronaldtan/11304​646574/

eventsof1768 wrote in post #16515562
im using the godox ad360. it was only bought recently - is it possible that the flash duration is different in newer models?

The timing is just a bit off. There's not much you can do about it without any adjustment, but when the new YN-622C-TX arrives that will have a timing adjustment.

Who knows though Godox may even beat YN to it.

I put up an explanation of long duration sync, and adjustment with the Odin, but other triggers with a basic timing adjustment will be similar.
.

Not as impressive as Jesus's Pack, but I still thought i would share

Anyone using any kind of pelican case with their lights? Looking for the right size to store/transport: 2 lights, 2 battery packs, cables, triggers including Cells2 and YN-622s, the umbrella reflectors, and a few umbrella T-brackets.

Yup. 2 180's and a 360 in an 1564.

Nice looking case Jason

That's great thanks. Guess I'll need that case + a 3rd light .