A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

pwm2 wrote in post #16957736
It was a good post, since it showed how easy it was to gain a lot more light without any need for special equipment.

Thanks for compliment and you have to think-up and make stuff yourself when it is not on the market. It is even nicer if it simple and cheap and can made by getting stuff in a local store.

I have also made colour filters for the small octa of for this flash.

mmmfotografie wrote in post #16957810
Thanks for compliment and you have to think-up and make stuff yourself when it is not on the market. It is even nicer if it simple and cheap and can made by getting stuff in a local store.

I have also made colour filters for the small octa of for this flash.

Okay cool thanks

abbadon31 wrote in post #16413471

I need the insert to place inside my octa or maxilite to bounce the light forward. A T Bracket Bowens/Elinchrom will be what holds all the weight of the modifier. Just the smallest wind and just using an insert mounted on the head of the 360 would probably snap.
Since on a T Bracket you can bring the head in or move it back to have the insert rest up against the back of the speedring or insert filling the hole.

I found by adding dome insert didn't really do any thing but effect how far i could mount the tube into a modifier. Leaving it off gave me more options.

Since you brought it up, I will do a reading later today to see how much spill comes out the back. If its less then half its not going to effect my image even in a tight area.

abbadon31 wrote in post #16957830
I found by adding dome insert didn't really do any thing but effect how far i could mount the tube into a modifier. Leaving it off gave me more options.

Since you brought it up, I will do a reading later today to see how much spill comes out the back. If its less then half its not going to effect my image even in a tight area.

You better also measure in the front because there were it all happens.

mmmfotografie wrote in post #16957787
To be honest the idea to re-use the light thrown out the back came from you, looking at 'back the scenes' pictures of you. So you can even claim some fame if you want.

mmmfotografie wrote in post #16957851
You better also measure in the front because there were it all happens.

I don't have a problem with lighting style or my output, but since you brought up the light thrown out the back from me. I figure I better check that out.

Scott, I think you'll find its not much light quantitatively. Our eyes are susceptible to the flash of light, so it looks like a lot of light is "leaking". My guess, based on some very simple tests many years ago is that its well below a 1/4 EV and probably closer to 1/10th. Not worth a lot of effort in my experience.

^^^ Thanks David

The setup

a magic arm mounted to a Cheetahstand C10 stand to make sure the distance never changed. 10 inches power setting was 1/8

elv wrote in post #16958612
I've only got white interior regular softboxes here, but putting the umbrella reflector on the flash while using those gives about an extra stop of light. Even compared to using a flat disc stopping any spill out the back.

I can imagine it may not be as much, if any advantage in a reflective silver lined softbox though.

I don't think measuring the light direct at 10 inches would give the same result as with the softbox in place and measuring maybe 4 feet away.
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The reason for the boost in power using the umbrella reflector is because your focusing the light because its curved.

The reason why there is none using the dome insert is because its flat.

When measuring light the distance is based on the size of the modifier. 9" reflector your getting full coverage at 10". If it was a 4' octa I would have measured at 5'.

One thing to remember when measuring light from a modifier, is that there will be fall off from center to edge. I read somewhere, have no idea if its a recognized standard, that the angle of coverage spec for a reflector is based on 1 EV fall off from center to edge of light cone. That makes sense since more than 1 EV is going to be quite noticeable.

Placing the light meter right in front of the flash tube even at some distance means that the dome of the meter is going to be struck by direct light with minimal contribution from light redirected into the cone by a reflector.
Similarly, light "escaping" out the back of a mount is going to be reflected light rather than direct light.
There is at least one YouTube video where Joel Grimes is using Westcott soft boxes without the rear panel in place. i.e. There is a large open area around the strobe. Not sure how much light is "escaping" but obviously not enough to make a difference. Then again, he may be using that as a way to reduce output when the modifier is quite close to the subject.

I use to use the insert till I found out how much it limited my bulb placement. I don't have a problem with not enough power or the blow back effecting my style.

Again this is my thoughts and no one has to agree with it or follow it.

After using the flash extender I found the further out the bulb is the better the coverage and I get a longer throw. This is why I like to test my modifiers and find the sweet spot that makes it most effective.

abbadon31 wrote in post #16959634
After using the flash extender I found the further out the bulb is the better the coverage and I get a longer throw.

I bet I know somebody that's not buying the Profoto B1 500 Air anytime soon.

I found I could place the CL-360 in a Cheetah S bracket so that the bulb was about 3 inches inside the modifier.

I agree with Scott, the best approach is some testing to see what works best with each modifier. Unless I can't get enough light from the flash at full power there is no problem with a bit of "leakage". And, experience tells me that if I don't have enough light at full power I should move the light closer to the subject.

abbadon31 wrote in post #16959634
I use to use the insert till I found out how much it limited my bulb placement. I don't have a problem with not enough power or the blow back effecting my style.

Sorry I didn't realise you were using the flat insert inside another reflector there. I was wondering what the reflector was (thinking it was quantum mount).

I still wouldn't expect any difference in reading bare at 10" though, but yes using the flat reflector in a softbox doesn't do much if anything to boost the light.
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We are all on the right page Elv

Quantum QF63B Telephoto Reflector with the QF63S Spacer on the 360. Flash is 30 feet from the wall getting f/18 1/1 power.

I've got one of those Quantum tele reflectors and extender. I don't remember trying it on the 360. I'll have to give it a try.

Here are two head shots I did this morning. The young men are two of this year's Evans Scholarship recipients from Westmoreland Country Club here. For those who aren't golfers, the Evans Scholarship program awards full scholarships to caddies meeting the qualifications for need and academic excellence.

Used a CL-360 at 1/16th power through a Westcott collapsible umbrella which was about 6 feet away. Fuji XT1 with 55-200mm lens at F5.6.

Nice work David

That combo really puts out the power and great for long throws. I think it would be a plus for any bird watcher shooters.

I have not tested it on a subject yet, hoping to get to this next weekend. I did have to file down the 2 pins to get it fully seat in my 360. I wish it slid in like tube did in the top or like the 180 it fits perfect with no mods.