A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

ShotByTom wrote in post #17068323
Can anyone tell me if this light will do HSS with a pocketwizard Plus III?

Yes if you have an TT1 or TT5 triggering the Plus III.

link: http://wiki.pocketwiza​rd.com …php?title=Hyper​Sync_Setup

link: http://wiki.pocketwiza​rd.com …rSync_and_High_​Speed_Sync

Tor M wrote in post #17068348
I just tested mine. I got 308 full power flashes out of the battery, so it is far from the 450 full power flashes that are claimed in the specs. I did one mistake in that I didn't notice that the focus assistant light was on for the first round of flashes, so I could probably have gotten a few more flashes out of it... I got a maximum of 64 full power flashes before the battery got into heat protection mode.

i'm pretty sure that the AF assist light shouldn't drain 150 full power flashes from the claimed specs.... seems like the manufacturer specs grossly overstate the claimed 450 pops when you are only getting a little over 300.

Tor M wrote in post #17068348
I just tested mine. I got 308 full power flashes out of the battery, so it is far from the 450 full power flashes that are claimed in the specs. I did one mistake in that I didn't notice that the focus assistant light was on for the first round of flashes, so I could probably have gotten a few more flashes out of it... I got a maximum of 64 full power flashes before the battery got into heat protection mode.

Thanks Tor,

That sounds decent if most are getting around 340. Maybe just keep an eye on it and do the test again in a few weeks.

I think the battery pack heat protection count depends on how fast you are between pops.

You don't really want to be shooting the 360 at full power for lots of consecutive shots in real use anyway, so this is not something I would think is an issue.
.

Fwiw, Ed at cheetah suggested that pushing the light to trip the thermal protection might not be the best idea. It's the bulb that will trip first, so pushing it that hard is not a test of the battery, but of the flash head.

EOS utility has a way to trip the cameras shutter at timed intervals. I did it at one minute intervals for 200 shots and the head barely got warm.

I might have gotten a couple of flashes more if I didn't leave the focus assistant light on in the beginning of the test, so I think it is in line with what most people get with current production batteries. Seems like newer batteries are not up to the 450 flashes claimed in the specs so the specs are probably overstated at the moment. Maybe the best way to get more blinks is to get a seperate battery that is from an earlier batch.

Anyway I'm quite pleased with that result. I'm rarely at full power with normal use, so the battery will last long time between charges.

hes gone wrote in post #17069834
=he's gone;17069834]pushing the light to trip the thermal protection might not be the best idea. It's the bulb that will trip first, so pushing it that hard is not a test of the battery, but of the flash head.

Actually the pack will shut down well before the flash head reaches thermal protection if you're pushing it too hard with the 360.

I'm not suggesting to go flat out until protection cuts in, just that you will likely need to give the flash a break for 15 or 20 minutes every 75 shots. If you don't stop for a few minutes within each set the flash protection will come on because it runs on a count.
.

That was just my understanding after talking to Ed. I made sure to feel the temperature of all parts of the battery and flash as I went along. Real scientific, huh? The head (not bulb) was always signicantly hotter than the battery.

hes gone wrote in post #17069882
=he's gone;17069882]That was just my understanding after talking to Ed. I made sure to feel the temperature of all parts of the battery and flash as I went along. Real scientific, huh? The head (not bulb) was always signicantly hotter than the battery.

The head survives much, much, much more heat than the battery cells.

So it's expected that the head gets hotter. It takes lots of heat to generate that flash pulse, after all.

For the batteries, you want a low average temperature, since that slows down ageing. And you want to limit the peak temperature since at too high temperature (assuming the temperature protection doesn't cut in), the battery may reach a temperature where you get a thermal runaway.

pwm2 wrote in post #17069988
The head survives much, much, much more heat than the battery cells.

So it's expected that the head gets hotter. It takes lots of heat to generate that flash pulse, after all.

For the batteries, you want a low average temperature, since that slows down ageing. And you want to limit the peak temperature since at too high temperature (assuming the temperature protection doesn't cut in), the battery may reach a temperature where you get a thermal runaway.

gotcha.

I read the instructions again (no really, i actually read them and keep them handy) and it does say that the blinking and pause indicates "excessively high temperature inside the power pack". I must have misunderstood Ed, we covered a lot of ground in a short conversation.

Going over the instructions again makes me wonder if i should be charging the battery while it is in the control unit? There is no indication that it should be done that way, but it does say that the control unit will light up during charging. I have been charging without the control unit on the battery.

Thanks for your detailed explanation a couple of days ago. I'm trying to store all this information in MY aging control unit.

hes gone wrote in post #17070146
=he's gone;17070146]

Thanks for your detailed explanation a couple of days ago. I'm trying to store all this information in MY aging control unit.

LOL That is my issue too! I need a memory upgrade.

tongki wrote in post #17065246
Noup,
They dont provide it with balancing, I've opened the case already

How easy was it to extract the batteries when you took the 4 screws out of the battery housing? I'm tempted to do it just to check my individual cell voltages but not if the pack is glued to the housing.

I briefly contemplated modding the battery pack to install a 3s balancing plug that I could use with my fancy computerized balancing charger I use for RC Aircraft LIPO battery maintenance. I didn't get far down this path since I don't really think it would be practical in use to have the balance plug and wiring hanging out of the side of the case. I guess I could always tape it to the side of the case with a piece of gaffer tape when I wasn't charging. Still on the fence on that path. I would definately like to at least check the existing cell matching though.

draderusa wrote in post #17070182
How easy was it to extract the batteries when you took the 4 screws out of the battery housing? I'm tempted to do it just to check my individual cell voltages but not if the pack is glued to the housing.

I briefly contemplated modding the battery pack to install a 3s balancing plug that I could use with my fancy computerized balancing charger I use for RC Aircraft LIPO battery maintenance. I didn't get far down this path since I don't really think it would be practical in use to have the balance plug and wiring hanging out of the side of the case. I guess I could always tape it to the side of the case with a piece of gaffer tape when I wasn't charging. Still on the fence on that path. I would definately like to at least check the existing cell matching though.

I was thinking about going that route as well. Since I sent my battery in and have no spares I will have to wait until my replacement or the spare that I ordered arrives. I am interested in what you learn if you end up doing yours. Thanks

draderusa wrote in post #17070182
How easy was it to extract the batteries when you took the 4 screws out of the battery housing? I'm tempted to do it just to check my individual cell voltages but not if the pack is glued to the housing.

I briefly contemplated modding the battery pack to install a 3s balancing plug that I could use with my fancy computerized balancing charger I use for RC Aircraft LIPO battery maintenance. I didn't get far down this path since I don't really think it would be practical in use to have the balance plug and wiring hanging out of the side of the case. I guess I could always tape it to the side of the case with a piece of gaffer tape when I wasn't charging. Still on the fence on that path. I would definately like to at least check the existing cell matching though.

It simple to take out the battery, but if you removed the shrink wrap you would have to remove the top chip board and that will not be a safe and easy task. I would not recommend it, but if you do your doing it your own risk and voiding any warranty on your battery pack.

losangelino wrote in post #17070197
I was thinking about going that route as well. Since I sent my battery in and have no spares I will have to wait until my replacement or the spare that I ordered arrives. I am interested in what you learn if you end up doing yours. Thanks

WOW NO NO NO

It might only be an 11.1v battery, but its not like a AA throw way battery. Your dealing with a lot of power in a small package. We are talking large fire or explosion. LiPo batteries can not be throw in the trash it takes a special dump. If you punchers one of the cells or over charge it will start a large fire. A class ABC fire extinguisher is not going to put it out, It will have to run its own course.

I highly recommend no one trying to mod or mess with a LiPo unless you know what your doing (pro).

This is a good reason not to post what your going to do, because other people with think its okay to do and could cause serious injury or loss.

abbadon31 wrote in post #17070346
WOW NO NO NO

It might only be an 11.1v battery, but its not like a AA throw way battery. Your dealing with a lot of power in a small package. We are talking large fire or explosion. LiPo batteries can not be throw in the trash it takes a special dump. If you punchers one of the cells or over charge it will start a large fire. A class ABC fire extinguisher is not going to put it out, It will have to run its own course.

I highly recommend no one trying to mod or mess with a LiPo unless you know what your doing (pro).

This is a good reason not to post what your going to do, because other people with think its okay to do and could cause serious injury or loss.

"DO NOT DO IT!!!"

Please DO NOT take the battery apart.we are not talking about void the warrany....
This is VERY DANGEROUS............P​lease DO NOT DO IT.

All the Cheetah Battery L4500 or V850 and V860c,We have the newest production just come in by air today.
We test every battery and light before we ship to our customers.....

If you have ANY battery issue,We'll take care of it!
At CheetahStand we service what we sale!