A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

agv8or wrote in post #17199256
a new Mitro II with the Odin II specs and quick access button layout

This is exactly what would make me switch back to Phottix. With the speed of lighting products development this shouldn't be too far off hopefully.

futureal33 wrote in post #17061016
I dont understand how you're getting anything like that!
I was shooting a wedding on saturday and the ambient was metering at 1/200th (sync speed), ISO 100, f5.6. This was around 7pm at night, so not dark by any means - but beginning to darken down.

"Great" I thought, no trouble overpowering this with the Godox - which Id rather use for soft lighting, than using a barebulb speedlite.

However, when it was inside the softbox (same as this: http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …_rapid_box_octa​_mini.html)
I couldn't get enough power from it, even on 1/1 to overpower the ambient by 1 stop (shooting f8, rather than f5.6 to give me the 1 stop difference) The softbox was as close to my couple as I could physically get (in terms of actual distance, Id guess around 1 - 1.5m max) without it being in shot.

In the end I gave up, and went to a barebulb Canon 600ex which gave me f8 no problem (albeit, harsh and direct lighting...)

Sorry for late reply, only just seen this. Until recently I was using just the original 120J heads….I must profess to being slightly baffled - the 120J is a stop less powerful than the AD180 which I just bought. shot with 120J and 19" Cheetahlight/Godox folding gridded softbox, light is around 1.5m from the subject and the flash is set at 1/4 power.

So I'm wondering how your gear didn't cut it? was there an update? sorry if I didn't read the whole thread

Alright, so i've narrowed it down to two modifiers with my ad-360

http://www.ebay.com …-32-Softbox-/310897184030
seems like 32" is the sweet spot for the size of this light.

Question: do i need the umbrella attachment in order to keep the light source in the middle of the umbrella? Also, would the PCB mini boom arm help to adjust the angle of the softbox to tilt downwards?
http://www.paulcbuff.c​om/mba.php

http://www.ebay.com/it​m/261548511142
The 19" collapsible softbox. You can gel this softbox and it seems to be very well made. The only downside seems to be the size of the softbox. It seems like this is a much more hassle free modifier with the exception of having to screw on the deflector.


thanks

The 360 is right at home in my cheetah 43 inch octa. In my 24" collapseable qbox, it packs a hell of a punch. I don't think there is any reason to limit yourself to a small box. In fact the next thing I'm looking for is something around 50 square. Either that or I'm going with a couple of large (7'x40") diffusion panels.

c2thew wrote in post #17205940
http://www.ebay.com/it​m/261548511142
The 19" collapsible softbox. You can gel this softbox and it seems to be very well made. The only downside seems to be the size of the softbox. It seems like this is a much more hassle free modifier with the exception of having to screw on the deflector.


thanks

I really like this soft box…..so versatile. this is the one I used for the mechanic shot. has a grid with it, which can be used in either soft box mode or beauty dish mode. takes like 30 seconds to put together if that. my only complaint is that the material covering the mount wears out over time (18 months for me) but hey it's $50. I can afford to buy a couple of spares.

hes gone wrote in post #17206091
=he's gone;17206091]The 360 is right at home in my cheetah 43 inch octa. In my 24" collapseable qbox, it packs a hell of a punch. I don't think there is any reason to limit yourself to a small box. In fact the next thing I'm looking for is something around 50 square. Either that or I'm going with a couple of large (7'x40") diffusion panels.

Yep use the pro s bracket and the new Godox S-FA and use 4x 360 in a 8" octa or a para umbrella.

is the umbrella holder accessory mandatory when using the godox 360 and the octa softbox? I'm worried about over stressing the flash head (even though it seems sturdy enough).

c2thew wrote in post #17211180
is the umbrella holder accessory mandatory when using the godox 360 and the octa softbox? I'm worried about over stressing the flash head (even though it seems sturdy enough).

All you need is the S-Bracket!! It will even support the PB 64" PLM and is a solid fit!!

c2thew wrote in post #17211180
is the umbrella holder accessory mandatory when using the godox 360 and the octa softbox? I'm worried about over stressing the flash head (even though it seems sturdy enough).

I wouldn't put anything heavy on the flash head

Yeah, it's not very sturdy. I second the S-Bracket. Very solid.

I should not just say weight as well as wind, nothing like having a gust a wind to rip the head off the 360

I'm having trouble picturing the s bracket inside the apollo softbox clone. Won't the body of the 360 be pushing up against the diffusion panel? Or do ypu have to abgle the rest of the body down?

When working indoor with mixed light I am missing the posing light to see how my flash is filling the area and where the shadows will be present. I am using the the 19" small octa from Godox/CheetahStand which has a screw-on for the plates to make it a kind of beauty-dish. The used aluminum bar made by me has a hole that goes over the main part of the screw-on part and a screw inside, Metric 8, to secure attach the bar.

Abbandon31 did work on a LED light however he stopped the development. In the two months that I was working on my own concept I had contact with him his experiences and to check with him my questions about the working of the battery back.

I setup shoot be simple, modular, easy to build from available parts, bright and remotely switched on and off. This because LED are producing a heat besides light.

A warning on the brightness of the LED's used to have always strong sunglasses in reach when working with lit LED's. Your eyes are automatically drawn to them what is not good for your eyes.

My final beta setup is now ready and working and I am now waiting for brighter LED's that use less power.

So what did I needed to build this. First off all I looked at the LED's to use and I first used on 10 Watt LED and when I was ready to glue them on the bar I decided to use three of them connected parallel so I could go up to 30 Watt total if needed.
I am running them now at a third of that at 10 Watt or 20 Watt and so they spread more the heat and the LED's are not driven to the maximum.

I put a lot of work to find a driver (power supply for the LED) and have chosen a 100 Watt version with automatic voltage control so I only have set with jumpers (small switch) for the current. I have found a remote radio control+receiver that I could connect up to the control port of the driver and I can now switch on/off from a distance. This is important because I am only storing the heat in the aluminum bar which is giving of the heat off to the air. So very long burns of the LED's will not only heat up the bar to much but also draw power from the battery pack.

For the LED's I need 9.6 Volt and the battery pack is supplying 12 Volt at the charge connector, that is why your green LED on the charger is led when it is connected to the battery pack but not to the wall socket.

I will be more specific about the parts, where to get, what check and you really have to be comfortable with soldering iron when making the cables and connecting stuff up.

I can't be kept accountable for any mishaps or damage and it is your own responsibility when you start your own project.

I Have made some pictures of my setup and the cable between the LED-bar and the box with the driver will be one connection in the final version.

Complete view of the setup:

c2thew wrote in post #17211893
I'm having trouble picturing the s bracket inside the apollo softbox clone. Won't the body of the 360 be pushing up against the diffusion panel? Or do ypu have to abgle the rest of the body down?

For that modifier, Phottix multi-boom is the best choice. Here's a post from awhile ago.

https://photography-on-the.net …p=16746872&post​count=3913

mmmfotografie wrote in post #17212023
When working indoor with mixed light I am missing the posing light to see how my flash is filling the area and where the shadows will be present. I am using the the 19" small octa from Godox/CheetahStand which has a screw-on for the plates to make it a kind of beauty-dish. The used aluminum bar made by me has a hole that goes over the main part of the screw-on part and a screw inside, Metric 8, to secure attach the bar.

Abbandon31 did work on a LED light however he stopped the development. In the two months that I was working on my own concept I had contact with him his experiences and to check with him my questions about the working of the battery back.

I setup shoot be simple, modular, easy to build from available parts, bright and remotely switched on and off. This because LED are producing a heat besides light.

A warning on the brightness of the LED's used to have always strong sunglasses in reach when working with lit LED's. Your eyes are automatically drawn to them what is not good for your eyes.

My final beta setup is now ready and working and I am now waiting for brighter LED's that use less power.

So what did I needed to build this. First off all I looked at the LED's to use and I first used on 10 Watt LED and when I was ready to glue them on the bar I decided to use three of them connected parallel so I could go up to 30 Watt total if needed.
I am running them now at a third of that at 10 Watt or 20 Watt and so they spread more the heat and the LED's are not driven to the maximum.

I put a lot of work to find a driver (power supply for the LED) and have chosen a 100 Watt version with automatic voltage control so I only have set with jumpers (small switch) for the current. I have found a remote radio control+receiver that I could connect up to the control port of the driver and I can now switch on/off from a distance. This is important because I am only storing the heat in the aluminum bar which is giving of the heat off to the air. So very long burns of the LED's will not only heat up the bar to much but also draw power from the battery pack.

For the LED's I need 9.6 Volt and the battery pack is supplying 12 Volt at the charge connector, that is why your green LED on the charger is led when it is connected to the battery pack but not to the wall socket.

I will be more specific about the parts, where to get, what check and you really have to be comfortable with soldering iron when making the cables and connecting stuff up.

I can't be kept accountable for any mishaps or damage and it is your own responsibility when you start your own project.

I Have made some pictures of my setup and the cable between the LED-bar and the box with the driver will be one connection in the final version.

Complete view of the setup:

LED-bar

remote:

diffused

HTTP response: NOT FOUND

At four feet / 120cm at 1200 mA I measure 260 Lux.
At four feet / 120cm at 2100 mA I measure 560 Lux

I can increase this by 30% to 40% by attaching a bar magnifier in front and close to the LED. I use it unfocussed and when hold farther away it will focus what will be not pleasant for the model in front of the box.

I will add more specification and details in time and now I am waiting for two new LED bars that will have aluminum M8 thread and are heat coupled to the cage inside the small octa box.

Please be selective when quoting and do not include the pictures unless you have a specific question about them. You could also just use the name above the picture.

Looking good