A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

EmaginePixel wrote in post #17212038
For that modifier, Phottix multi-boom is the best choice. Here's a post from awhile ago.

https://photography-on-the.net …p=16746872&post​count=3913

I find if you already have a boom stand you don't need this at all.

Sorry if this has been covered before, but am I able to trigger the CL-360 along with my Canon flashes with a YN-622C?

bryzf1 wrote in post #17222926
Sorry if this has been covered before, but am I able to trigger the CL-360 along with my Canon flashes with a YN-622C?

http://flashhavoc.com …dio-trigger-alternatives/

^Thank you

I have just receive 4 Godox AD-360 and wanted to share how thrilled I am.

Ivan

Welcome to POTN pomjac90 and have fun with the flashes and make beautiful pictures.

mmmfotografie wrote in post #17224789
Welcome to POTN pomjac90 and have fun with the flashes and make beautiful pictures.

Many Thanks, A lot of reading until now and very interesting

pomjac09 wrote in post #17224556
I have just receive 4 Godox AD-360 and wanted to share how thrilled I am.

Ivan

Only 4 why stop there.
I'm sure you will be happy with them

Scott, mmmfoto mentioned that your work on a modeling light for the 360 had been stopped. Not sure if your development was tied to godox/cheetah, but does this mean that there is nothing in development that might eventually hit the market?

Curious about the remote head or whatever you were calling the lightbulb on a cord too

A little update on the development of posing light.

I have ordered me better LED lights with 150 lumen/Watt which 50% more efficiency than the current ones I use. Also bi-metal switches are on their way so that if I forget to switch of the light it will do it by itself before any damage can occur. A second fuse will protect when the bi-metal switch does not his job and that one has to be replaced when triggered.

I have new bars for the ordered lights and I have replaced the metal screw inside the bar for a aluminium one so the weight is as low as possible. In my prototype I have glued the thread in so no heat would be transferred between the softbox and the light. In the new one there will be heat transfer due to the thread is now screwed in the bar and glued with heat transmitting glue, same glue as for glueing the LED on the aluminium bar. Heat-sinks that I can glue on the bar when needed are also on their way so it seems that I can produce a final version within three weeks.

Next Thursday I will have shoot and I think that I will have to use the prototype during that shoot, because I don't think the main bulk of the parts are in then and build the new versions.

Had to do also a modification on the receiver for the remote and changed the resistor, which became to hot, for one with a higher Ohm rating and now it get only slightly warm when the light is switched off. When switched off the current usage is now 200mA and I will try a to bring that down even more.

The cable between the driver (power converter) for the LED are more important than I first taught and I have used now a thicker cable so the loss is kept to a minimum and also copper ones because that seems to be better than the metal wires. I tried different cables and was pleased that the driver was adapting it current and voltage to the used cable to keep the LED in their optimum range. So getting a thicker cable results in lower voltage and current to be sent to the LED lights but the light output is higher or the same and in that way increase the lifespan of the LED.

I have only between 10 and 12 Volt from the powerpack so I have to take care the driver is working in his best range and no power is wasted in heat. That is also the reason that I keep close to the native voltage output of the powerpack and not have to boost it to a higher voltage what produces heat.

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For those wondering how to mount modifiers to their 360's, why not mount the 360 to the modifier?

mmmfotografie wrote in post #17226048
A little update on the development of posing light.

I have ordered me better LED lights with 150 lumen/Watt which 50% more efficiency than the current ones I use. Also bi-metal switches are on their way so that if I forget to switch of the light it will do it by itself before any damage can occur. A second fuse will protect when the bi-metal switch does not his job and that one has to be replaced when triggered.

I have new bars for the ordered lights and I have replaced the metal screw inside the bar for a aluminium one so the weight is as low as possible. In my prototype I have glued the thread in so no heat would be transferred between the softbox and the light. In the new one there will be heat transfer due to the thread is now screwed in the bar and glued with heat transmitting glue, same glue as for glueing the LED on the aluminium bar. Heat-sinks that I can glue on the bar when needed are also on their way so it seems that I can produce a final version within three weeks.

Next Thursday I will have shoot and I think that I will have to use the prototype during that shoot, because I don't think the main bulk of the parts are in then and build the new versions.

Had to do also a modification on the receiver for the remote and changed the resistor, which became to hot, for one with a higher Ohm rating and now it get only slightly warm when the light is switched off. When switched off the current usage is now 200mA and I will try a to bring that down even more.

The cable between the driver (power converter) for the LED are more important than I first taught and I have used now a thicker cable so the loss is kept to a minimum and also copper ones because that seems to be better than the metal wires. I tried different cables and was pleased that the driver was adapting it current and voltage to the used cable to keep the LED in their optimum range. So getting a thicker cable results in lower voltage and current to be sent to the LED lights but the light output is higher or the same and in that way increase the lifespan of the LED.

I have only between 10 and 12 Volt from the powerpack so I have to take care the driver is working in his best range and no power is wasted in heat. That is also the reason that I keep close to the native voltage output of the powerpack and not have to boost it to a higher voltage what produces heat.

You should start a thread - this is too good to be hidden in here.

abbadon31 wrote in post #17225803
Only 4 why stop there.
I'm sure you will be happy with them

Love your videos on Youtube, by the way.

For my work I usually use 3 and like to have a spare on, just in case.

Just sold Elinchrom BXRI500 and this a new "era" for me.

I hope to post some pictures shortly.

Regards from sunny Mallorca, Spain

Ivan

Drk Orange wrote in post #17226416
You should start a thread - this is too good to be hidden in here.

Thanks and my intention was to make a PDF file with the used parts and were to get it. Building instructions and warnings for pitfalls.

Drk Orange wrote in post #17226403
For those wondering how to mount modifiers to their 360's, why not mount the 360 to the modifier?

Picture....

The bracket is something I whipped up a number of years ago to allow me to mount a speedlight to an ebay softbox so I had to bend it a little to fit the 360. (which is why it doesn't look pretty)

Was simple to make...

1. Find bolt to screw into softbox bracket. (I recall it was already threaded, maybe about 3/8th" - if not, thread one of the unused holes)
2. Bend aluminium strip to required shape. (1" x 1/8th")
3. Drill hole to allow it to be bolted to softbox bracket.
4. Acquire 1/4" bolt to mount flash. (I used one off an old umbrella mount)
5. Drill hole for flash mount screw. (I did one slightly smaller than 1/4" which allows me to screw it in so it is captured)
6. Power rangers, Assemble!
7. Use existing 1/4" mounting point on umbrella to mount to lighting stand/tripod.
9. What happened to 8?
8. Oh, here it is.


If I were to make one specifically for the 360 units, I would use the mountpoint at the flash hinge rather than the base, I suspect it is a lot stronger than the base. (which is only held on by 4 tiny screws)

The base is designed to hold the body+head+umbrella. When using the umbrella mount you put the weight of the body on the metal pin and plastic plate with holes in the head.

The four tiny screws in the metal plate at the base is a very strong connection.