A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

Edward at Cheetah Stand has three that will work.
One is an Octa, the other two are square.
The really big one is nice but requires a bracket to hold it and the two 360s.
I use the Phottix mini boom. Its ideal. Available at Adorama.

Two Hot Shoes wrote in post #17459955
Well as long as we are being pedantic about things, sigh, you don't get 600ws or whatever OUT of a light. A Watt second is a unit of electrical energy equal to the work done when a current of one ampere passes through a resistance of one ohm for one second. So perhaps saying 'gives me the equivalent power output of..... ' might have been better but in reality - where most of us live - using this reflector gives more light relative to not using it.

Thanks for sharing your set up and numbers Scott.

Thanks all for the semantics and pedanticism. I know my photos will improve because of it.

check out these videos for more of what dmward said above

https://www.cheetahsta​nd.com/product-p/video.htm

at least i think that's where he talks about the cheetah wing

futureal33 wrote in post #17459859
I have a question.

When you say you compared it to "bare" so you mean literally barebulb? Or standard reflector?

If it's compared to barebulb then that makes a lot of sense because the light is going everywhere vs channelled through a Maxilite funnel type reflector.

What I still can't quite work out is why the Maxilite is more effective than other reflectors, such as the high performance Bowens one, or even the high performance elinchrom, the design looks similar, but with a 40cm opening rather than 26cm, you'd expect it to spread the light wider?

Even with the stock reflector it reads f/32 and at the same distance the High performance reflector produces f/64.
The reason it produces the punch is it s a parabolic reflector.

Warehouse use these style of reflector because it produces more effective light form a 500w at a less cost then using 1000w bulbs

You can call up local electricians in the area, because now the factors are replacing these with LED lighting and you can buy good used one for cheap.

Interesting, I haven't seen one of those before. What are they called?

Thanks for sharing

futureal33 wrote in post #17460231
Interesting, I haven't seen one of those before. What are they called?

Thanks for sharing

Godox S-FA

http://www.godox.com …peedlite_Access​ories.html

Wondering if anyone has gotten their Cheetah V860n to work with a Nikon D800 and FlexTT5/MiniTT1. The combo works fine with my D4 at all shutter speeds, but seriously overexposes with my D800 at shutter speeds above Auto-FP. At or below Auto-FP works normally.

Sounds like Nikon may be doing what Canon did. i.e. Fiddling with the signaling from the camera just enough so third party devices won't work.

We had that problem with the Cells IIc testing for FP-sync with the 180s and 360s.

Here is what I use:

http://www.adorama.com​/PH87521.html

It has the benefit of making it easy to tilt the 50" umbrella softbox when its mounted on a light stand.
The cross bar takes two 360s or whatever. If you really want a lot of light, add two more cold shoes and load it with 4 360s.

I've tried different HSS settings in the Mini/TT1, but nothing seems to make a difference.

Are you on the latest firmware?
http://wiki.pocketwiza​rd.com …hp?title=Curren​t_Firmware

Yes, the TT1 and TT5 are both on 3.800, and I followed their "calibration" instructions.

The V860n also has weird behavior when used with a Mini/Flex. The written rule is to power up the flash, then the Flex. Once this is done, there should be a brief flash indicating that the Flex and the flash are communicating. This is how it works when using an SB900, but the sequence has to be reversed when using the V860n. Sometimes I have to cycle power on the V860 more than once before the flash triggers.

dmward wrote in post #17461132
Here is what I use:

http://www.adorama.com​/PH87521.html

It has the benefit of making it easy to tilt the 50" umbrella softbox when its mounted on a light stand.
The cross bar takes two 360s or whatever. If you really want a lot of light, add two more cold shoes and load it with 4 360s.

LOL
He said " other than the Westcott Apollo type?" David

I am afraid that I can't help you further on this an maybe you can ask the question in the PocketWizard Flickr Group and Jerry is always eager to help with Nikon questions.

https://secure.flickr.​com/groups/pocketwizar​ds/discuss/