A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

amirg wrote in post #17575738
No. The only way I can think of is to set the other flashes as optical slaves to CL/Godox flashes for this to work. Alternatively you can use another set of triggers such as yn622 or phottix strato for all flashes including CL and use FT-16 in hand just for power control.

I didn't think so...but I wanted to make sure.

I've ordered an AD 360 from Adorama, and am looking forward to using it. But I'm trying to find ways to simplify my lighting set-up as much as possible.

I usually only use one light (the AD360 will replace two 580exII with YN-622s). When I need to use more lights now, I can use the AD 360 and other flashes with the YN622s.

What other flashes are compatible with FT-16s? I only know of the 180s and 360s, but also know that Godox makes other speed lights too.

bms259 wrote in post #17575747
I didn't think so...but I wanted to make sure.

I've ordered an AD 360 from Adorama, and am looking forward to using it. But I'm trying to find ways to simplify my lighting set-up as much as possible.

I usually only use one light (the AD360 will replace two 580exII with YN-622s). When I need to use more lights now, I can use the AD 360 and other flashes with the YN622s.

What other flashes are compatible with FT-16s? I only know of the 180s and 360s, but also know that Godox makes other speed lights too.

from what i understand (i may be wrong) but the FT-16s is for the V850 and V860C flashes - it still works with the FT16 transmitter that fires the AD360's FT-16 receiver

so the Godox Ving speed lights (V850 and V860C) work as part of the same system as the AD360.
they also have a neat Lithium Ion pack, instead of AA cells (i can't believe it took this long to happen, best idea ever)

Godox V850 manual flash (uses Li-ion battery instead of AA batteries). It's fully compatible with FT-16 however the clip-on receiver for the flash is a different form factor than the one used with AD180/360.

bms259 wrote in post #17575727
Is there a way to use the FT-16 to fire other brand (i.e., Canon or Yongnuo) flashes?

You would use the cells II and set it to receiver and it will fire all no godox/cheetahstand/nee​wer/flashpoint flashes and strobes.

CheetahStand wrote in post #17575701
With Cells IIc for Canon cameras.
A. You do not need to set CL-180 and CL-360 flash to HSS.(with HSS mode,only allow you to fire 10 shot and thermo protection kick in)
B. You can just use regular "M" mode.this will allow you to fire 70 full power shot before thermo kick in.
C. Cells IIc work with Canon camera up to 5DMK3.

Cells IIn for Nikon the same,I tested.confirm work with Nikon up to D4s.
ETA 6-30-2015.

to be clear on this, when the flash is set to full power (1/1) you do not need it to be set to HSS to exceed x-sync speed on your camera. You still need the 622 or Cells to send the early HSS "fire" signal to the flash.

If you need less power, you need to use HSS on the flash to adjust the flash between 1/2 and 1/8 power.

rickmar, you need to have the 622 connected to the flash through a sync cord between the two. the 622 will not time the flash firing right with the flash in the hotshoe. you need something like this: http://www.amazon.com …pf_rd_i=desktop​&gw_sims-4

but i'd recommend finding one without the large 1/4" to 3.5mm adapter

So is it 6.35 or 3.5mm for the godox ad360?
Cheers

Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #17576085
to be clear on this, when the flash is set to full power (1/1) you do not need it to be set to HSS to exceed x-sync speed on your camera.

If you need less power, you need to use HSS on the flash to adjust the flash between 1/2 and 1/8 power.

I think what confuses people is that the device on the camera has to send a message to the camera via the control pins that the device is capable of HSS to switch the camera to FP-sync mode.
The flash unit has to be able to provide a flash duration that is longer than the time it takes for the shutter slit to travel across the sensor. With the CL 360 and 180 full power flash duration is long enough for the slit to travel.

Since flash duration decreases with power reductions, H mode has to be enabled for power setting below 1:1.
H mode uses the rapid strobing to deliver a relatively flat output for the duration of the shutter travel.

The good news is that 1:1 in H mode is roughly 1/2 full power, so the combination means that the CL lights will support FP sync from full power to 1:16th (1:8 H mode).

The only time the gradient across the sensor plane that is customary with H mode is a distraction is when one is shooting a flat object that is predominately lit by the flash. Since most of the time, H mode is being used out doors this isn't a problem.

yup ^

rickmar1905 wrote in post #17576140
So is it 6.35 or 3.5mm for the godox ad360?
Cheers

3.5 into the flash.

bms259 wrote in post #17575727
Is there a way to use the FT-16 to fire other brand (i.e., Canon or Yongnuo) flashes?

This is my setup with YN-622

HSS is enabled (from the YN-622), I control my speedlights from camera menu and Godox from top of camera.

And I can use bowens modifiers

Before I figured this out I had the YN622-TX (no pass trough) on top of camera and the godox contoller in my hand/pocket

Why use the cable at all?

I fire from my Canon ST-E3 using the Yongnuo YNE3-RX... just attatch it to the CL-360 and your done. No cables.

On my PW's using a cable means almost a stop more power from the flash. This because using the P2 port I can slow down the pre-sync so I have a better match between camera and the flash.

Talley wrote in post #17576619
Why use the cable at all?

I fire from my Canon ST-E3 using the Yongnuo YNE3-RX... just attatch it to the CL-360 and your done. No cables.

The cable and YN-622 enables HSS on the Godox.

The 622 sits in the hotshoe on the godox to keep it from dangling loose.

If I am not doing HSS I don´t need the 622 on the godox.


How do you adjust power on the Godox?

Nonnit wrote in post #17576774
The cable and YN-622 enables HSS on the Godox.

The 622 sits in the hotshoe on the godox to keep it from dangling loose.

If I am not doing HSS I don´t need the 622 on the godox.

How do you adjust power on the Godox?

I'm confused because with the ST-E3 and using the YNE3-RX I can shoot with HSS without a cable. I'd figure you could do the same with the 622.

I still use the FT-16 to adjust power but I can turn on/off from the ST-E3 and have all the grouping enabled. The YNE3-RX just hangs from the hotshoe on the CL-360 just like your 622 but doens't need any cable for HSS or anything. Although you still have to enable HSS from the CL360 like normal.

Talley wrote in post #17576836
I'm confused because with the ST-E3 and using the YNE3-RX I can shoot with HSS without a cable. I'd figure you could do the same with the 622.

I still use the FT-16 to adjust power but I can turn on/off from the ST-E3 and have all the grouping enabled. The YNE3-RX just hangs from the hotshoe on the CL-360 just like your 622 but doens't need any cable for HSS or anything. Although you still have to enable HSS from the CL360 like normal.

The answer my friend, you can find on the mother of all triggers pages written by ELV:
http://flashhavoc.com …dio-trigger-alternatives/

Sooo, I got all my stuff.
I have already tested everything, works great.
Even used the battery pack with my 580EXII for my niece's school award ceremony.
Really wanting to learn this stuff, kind of exciting, something I have been needing to get me back into action from my slump.
Kudoz to Edward!