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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 26 Jan 2013 (Saturday) 10:20
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A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

 
elv
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Apr 22, 2013 19:35 |  #1066

tetrode wrote in post #15854972 (external link)
The snoot would be too long to serve as a protective cap/flashtube cocoon.

The tube protector might just work as a storage container with an additional cap:

QUOTED IMAGE

The additional cap might come with a foam insert to hold the flashtube in place though that probably isn't necessary. Unfortunately, I do not have a spare snoot cap on hand.

The snoot concept would have to be telelscopic, just a longer cap that slides up and down the tube to make the extra length when its a snoot. I'll make one up later.

For the regular container, if you put the bulb in the other way, then you can have the same cap on the other end, it just needs a small spacer ring that fits around the outside of the pins stopping the cap from going on to far. That ring could be made of rubber or plastic or anything. A disk of rubber or dense foam with 4 holes for the pins would be ideal, so you press the bulb pins into the end cap, and then place the bulb and cap into the tube.

Or they make a second cap with a step so it can't go on too far. In the case of making any new caps I'd go with the telescopic snoot.
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tetrode
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Apr 22, 2013 20:13 |  #1067

elv wrote in post #15856477 (external link)
...
Or they make a second cap with a step so it can't go on too far. In the case of making any new caps I'd go with the telescopic snoot.
.

I don't see a telescoping snoot solution in my crystal ball, Elv. What I see is the protective cover, unchanged, being supplied with an additional, removable cap to allow it to be used as a flashtube holder. Further, I would suspect the removable cap will be exactly the same as the permanently attached cap on the other end of the tube. And by exactly, I mean without the added internal step you (reasonably) suggested. That internal step could be nothing more than, say, a 1/4" long section of snoot tubing fixed inside the removable cap at its closed end. If I had another snoot or protective cover cap, that's what I would do.




  
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ZoranC
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Apr 22, 2013 22:19 |  #1068

agv8or wrote in post #15853423 (external link)
The Lumedyne snoots are 4 5/8" long. I made my protectors 3" long so that they extend about 1/4" past the end of the bulb when they are fully seated in the flash receptacle. I felt this would give me the best protection since I am using a rubber end cap.

Thank you!




  
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elv
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Apr 22, 2013 22:49 |  #1069

tetrode wrote in post #15856587 (external link)
I don't see a telescoping snoot solution in my crystal ball, Elv. What I see is the protective cover, unchanged, being supplied with an additional, removable cap to allow it to be used as a flashtube holder. Further, I would suspect the removable cap will be exactly the same as the permanently attached cap on the other end of the tube. And by exactly, I mean without the added internal step you (reasonably) suggested. That internal step could be nothing more than, say, a 1/4" long section of snoot tubing fixed inside the removable cap at its closed end. If I had another snoot or protective cover cap, that's what I would do.

Yes the same cap is the obvious solution. They could even just punch a couple of small indents in the side, or you could do it yourself. Maybe even a piece of honeycomb in the cap (like the grid spot) so the bulb pins pass through.

Sounds like the cap may be quite tight though, so it may not be practical to push on and off anyway.
.


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elv
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Apr 22, 2013 22:52 |  #1070

agv8or wrote in post #15853362 (external link)
Here's the Quantum flash bulb extender side by side with a Cheetah bulb. The red alignment dot on the extender was originally 180 degrees from where it is now. The second picture is of the combo in the Cheetah Light.

This is great thanks.

Do we know if the Quantum bulbs are directly interchangeable then?
.


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pwm2
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Apr 23, 2013 01:22 |  #1071

If Quantum also have two outputs then the batteries should be able to handle two external units recycling at the same time. So having a 2-to-1 cable should not represent too much load.

The question is what the electronics looks on the inside. If the connectors are connected directly to the battery or if there are some current-limiting (short-circuit-protecting) electronics. Or some electronics that steps up/normalizes the voltage from the battery.

Without knowing the internals, it is hard to know if it is safe to use a 2-1 cable. Or if it would give any real advantage. If cable resistance is the limit, then I would have thought that the distance of cable after the 2-1 adapter would have been the main weak spot so the adapter wouldn't make much difference.

But if there are some fuse or other current-limiting device inside the battery pack, then that might be the weakest link. A fuse always adds some extra resistance since the goal is that the fuse should be so hot that it trigs when the current is too high. So a fuse might represent the resistance of many meters of cable. And if each output has its own fuse then a 2-1 cable would cut that effect in half, i.e. half the current would go through each fuse representing half as much voltage loss in the fuses.


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Gareth ­ O'Neill
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Apr 23, 2013 15:47 as a reply to  @ pwm2's post |  #1072

Anyone have any issues come up with their AD-180 and wish they had got a CL-180 instead?


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Whortleberry
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Apr 23, 2013 17:40 |  #1073

Gareth ONeill wrote in post #15859393 (external link)
=Gareth O'Neill;15859393]Anyon​e have any issues come up with their AD-180 and wish they had got a CL-180 instead?

None here yet. What have you observed? Also, what differences do you believe there are between the AD-180 and the CL-180 ?


Phil ǁ Kershaw Soho Reflex: 4¼" Ross Xpres, 6½" Aldis, Super XX/ABC Pyro in 24 DDS, HP3/Meritol Metol in RFH, Johnson 'Scales' brand flash powder. Kodak Duo Six-20/Verichrome Pan. Other odd bits over the decades, simply to get the job done - not merely to polish and brag about cos I'm too mean to buy the polish!
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Gareth ­ O'Neill
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Apr 23, 2013 18:52 as a reply to  @ Whortleberry's post |  #1074

As far as I can see there is no difference, but I can buy the AD-180 here but have to get the CL-180 from the US. The price difference is considerable.


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dmward
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Apr 23, 2013 20:20 |  #1075

Gareth ONeill wrote in post #15859974 (external link)
=Gareth O'Neill;15859974]As far as I can see there is no difference, but I can buy the AD-180 here but have to get the CL-180 from the US. The price difference is considerable.

If you're outside the US. It makes more sense to get the Godox AbD-180. Edward has a notice on his site suggesting as much.

You are much closer to the manufacturing source than Edward, plus additional shipping plus adding Edwards overhead makes it a poor investment.

Those of us in the US have the benefit of Edward's great customer service and short shipping distance via UPS rather than spending about the same amount for the same unit from China without Edward's QC.


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Gareth ­ O'Neill
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Apr 23, 2013 22:15 as a reply to  @ dmward's post |  #1076

Great. Thanks for a very concise answer.bw!


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Whortleberry
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Apr 24, 2013 03:57 |  #1077

Gareth ONeill wrote in post #15859974 (external link)
=Gareth O'Neill;15859974]As far as I can see there is no difference, but I can buy the AD-180 here but have to get the CL-180 from the US. The price difference is considerable.

Edward Tang (Cheetah Stand) (external link) makes it very clear that his CL-180 is identical to the Godox AD-180. The difference for you and I is that the Cheetah version comes with US charger for the power pack while the Godox comes with the option of the EU-pin version. It all depends on charger adapter availability - in my part of the world a CEE 7/16 Europlug adapter is easy to get hold of (if you haven't already got a dozen or more ;)) while the NEMA 5/15 seems only available at UK airports. Both chargers are universal voltage, it's just the pin arrangement and what adapters you can easily get hold of. Godox R&D are looking at a charger with swappable pin-plates which would make things easier for many of us. Something along these (external link) lines, though obviously with a different output voltage and current to suit the PB960/L4500 pack.

The shipping from the USA is an absolute deal-killer for most of us outside the USA - eg Edward's US $19.95 1-to-2 lead costs nearly US $67 with shipping to UK. (It's nothing to do with Cheetah - USPS just totally annihilate a potential deal.) Then there's probably import duty and 20% tax on top of that - sometimes you get away without that and sometimes you don't :cry:. Shame because the service reputation Edward offers seems to be second-to-none and dealers with that level of passion and scrupulousness should be supported - assuming you can afford it!

I got my first AD-180 (there will be more) from GodoxStudio  (external link)(contact name here is Ada - I don't think that this reseller is directly linked to the makers other than being an official reseller) but there are good deals to be had at LinkDelight (external link) also (contact name here is Sandy - this link is outside eBay and is cheaper than going through that channel). I've additionally got extras from DZone2 (external link). All three of these are official Godox resellers as confirmed to me personally by Lindy Huang of the sales team at Godox - none of this dubious nature we've seen recently with Yongnuo flashes and that site which purports to be the official maker's outlet and isn't (see here (external link) for details).

The reason for me seemingly flitting from one reseller to another was in no way dissatisfaction with any of them - they've all done EXACTLY what they said, accurately and rapidly and certainly without hidden extras - but simply to determine which was best for me. Actually, I still can't choose between them. The one thing I HAVEN'T found is anyone who has the breadth of equipment which Cheetah Stand  (external link)has and I curse USPS on a daily basis for their silly charges which, being a tight-fisted Yorkshireman, just about kill any likelihood of me buying from Edward. You, on the other hand, may be prepared to finance the whole annual wages bill for USPS :lol:


Phil ǁ Kershaw Soho Reflex: 4¼" Ross Xpres, 6½" Aldis, Super XX/ABC Pyro in 24 DDS, HP3/Meritol Metol in RFH, Johnson 'Scales' brand flash powder. Kodak Duo Six-20/Verichrome Pan. Other odd bits over the decades, simply to get the job done - not merely to polish and brag about cos I'm too mean to buy the polish!
FlickR (external link) ◄► "The Other Yongnuo User Guide v4.12" by Clive Bolton (external link) ◄► UK Railway Photographs 1906-79 (external link)

  
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dmward
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Apr 24, 2013 07:00 |  #1078

Phil,
This is not intended to defend the USPS, its not the greatest, but most of the time, those onerous international postal rates are the result of treaties that were negotiated long ago. Even telecoms, which is now a truly universal service, is charging rates across borders that are totally unjustified by cost.

Granted it does cost more to fly a package from Texas to Yorkshire than from there to Chicago, but not THAT much more. :-)

Now, if a bunch of you in the UK would like to get together an order, I'd be happy to bring it over as personal baggage. Naturally, you'll have to cover my airfare. Its been a few years and I'd love to spend a week in London and Paris. :-)


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tetrode
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Apr 24, 2013 10:39 |  #1079

Elv just posted a MONUMENTAL review of the CL-180/AD-180 on his Flashhavoc blog. Extraordinary effort on Elv's part; certainly as thorough a review of a flash device as I've ever seen. Be forewarned, it's LONG but well worth wading through.

Fantastic job, Elv. Thank you.




  
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Whortleberry
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Apr 24, 2013 12:12 |  #1080

dmward wrote in post #15861518 (external link)
Now, if a bunch of you in the UK would like to get together an order, I'd be happy to bring it over as personal baggage. Naturally, you'll have to cover my airfare. Its been a few years and I'd love to spend a week in London and Paris. :-)

David: That's an incredibly generous offer for which I am most grateful. :rolleyes:
Unfortunately, I've sourced my immediate requirements already courtesy of the oft-reviled Hong Kong Post Office who have actually served me very well for several years. Such a shame that I won't be able to contribute to the "David Ward European Freebie Trip" at the present moment. :D

Joking apart, I do sometimes wonder if USPS and Royal Snail are actually hell-bent on getting rid of annoying individual mailings by pricing themselves out of the market and just concentrating on shovelling junk through our doors. They are certainly giving every indication that this is their intent. Roughly 80% of the stuff delivered by post (and this excludes all the leaflet drops and 'charity' bags) to Chateau Phil is unsolicited garbage.


Phil ǁ Kershaw Soho Reflex: 4¼" Ross Xpres, 6½" Aldis, Super XX/ABC Pyro in 24 DDS, HP3/Meritol Metol in RFH, Johnson 'Scales' brand flash powder. Kodak Duo Six-20/Verichrome Pan. Other odd bits over the decades, simply to get the job done - not merely to polish and brag about cos I'm too mean to buy the polish!
FlickR (external link) ◄► "The Other Yongnuo User Guide v4.12" by Clive Bolton (external link) ◄► UK Railway Photographs 1906-79 (external link)

  
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A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives
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