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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 26 Jan 2013 (Saturday) 10:20
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A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

 
gomab1914
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Apr 29, 2013 16:03 |  #1156

jcolman wrote in post #15879898 (external link)
Yes. I use mine all the time.

Thanks!


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ZoranC
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Apr 29, 2013 21:58 |  #1157

elv wrote in post #15878200 (external link)
Grerat thanks Zoran. I've messaged Chris Valites from PW to see if we can get a step by step run down.

Looking forward to it :)




  
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dmward
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Apr 29, 2013 23:36 |  #1158

gomab1914 wrote in post #15879387 (external link)
So I finally have the funds to purchase the CL-180 but have a few questions.. Has it been confirmed that the CellsII CheetahSync will work with the 6D? I thinking about purchasing the 19in softbox with grid but was wondering if i would need something bigger to grid my wedding couple? If so, any suggestions as to what would work? Do you also think the 180 would be enough power to light a couple using hss at 8000?

We are waiting for the Cells-II with updated firmware from Godox. Edward has them working on an update to make the 5DIII, 6D etc. compatible.

Once it arrives I will be testing it with 5DIII. The presumption is that all 2012 cameras will require the same firmware update. If I can get my hands on one, I'll also test the 6D.


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silvrbullet
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May 01, 2013 11:37 |  #1159

I used the CL-180 a lot this weekend. I did back to back engagement shoots, and I couldn't be happier. My lighting assistant loved the weight savings versus the previous E640/VML setup. I will post some shots once I get done editing, and deliver the images to my clients.

Once the CL-360 is available, you will be able to find my E640/VML up for sale!

Also, any idea when the 2-to-1 cable will be available?


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elv
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May 01, 2013 21:56 |  #1160

ZoranC wrote in post #15877633 (external link)
I have both PocketWizards and Nikon D700 to try with. If I can be given exact testing procedure (I vaguely recollect this might have been discussed before but I would have to go back to find exact posts) I will test.

Ok there are 3 methods from PocketWizard -

P2 via a sync cord:

This is actually the easiest way, as it uses the optimized results of a lot of coding work, and timing adjustments hard won through testing and reverse engineering.

1.) Connect the transmitting MiniTT1 to the PocketWizard Utility, and navigate to the HyperSync/HSS tab. Check "HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)" and click "Apply Changes."

2.) Set the flash to full power (in H-mode (FP HSS) you could use other power levels once this is confirmed working)

3.) Take a few shots with your camera set at your desired HyperSync Speed. If the results aren't satisfactory, connect the receiving FlexTT5 to the PocketWizard Utility, and navigate to the HyperSync/HSS tab. Adjust the settings in the dropdown next to "P2 Flash duration" and click "Apply Changes."

Cheetah flash in the top shoe.

1.) Connect the FlexTT5 the Cheetah will be set upon to the PocketWizard Utility, navigate to the "Misc" tab, and check "Basic Trigger Mode." This flash is not compatible with the ControlTL system, and needs to be used in Basic Trigger mode for consistent results.

2.) Connect the transmitting MiniTT1 to the PocketWizard Utility, and navigate to the HyperSync/HSS tab. Check "HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)" and "Apply Changes."

3.) Take a few shots at your desired HyperSync shutter speed. If you're not happy with the results, connect the MiniTT1 to the PocketWizard Utility, navigate to the "HyperSync/HSS" tab, and adjust the settings in the drop down next to "HyperSync Flash Duration for Standard Channels."

I will say that the P2 port will generally give better results because it uses ControlTL signals. Basic Trigger mode uses Standard Channel signals. When triggering above X-sync, Standard Channel signals go out last, and with cameras with limited timing windows, can result in worse performance.

There's also a third method to try to get seamless performance at 1/8000th...but it's not optimized. It involves the P2 port. It's effectively the same as the P2 setting above, but you do not check "HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)"

1.) Set the flash to full power ( in H-mode (FP HSS) you could use other power levels once this is confirmed working)

3.) Take a few shots with your camera set at your desired HyperSync Speed. If the results aren't satisfactory, connect the receiving FlexTT5 to the PocketWizard Utility, and navigate to the HyperSync/HSS tab. Adjust the settings in the dropdown next to "P2 Flash duration" and click "Apply Changes."

There is an image of the PocketWizard utlilty here for anyone trying to follow this -

http://wiki.pocketwiza​rd.com/images/e/ed/Hyp​erSyncHSS.jpg (external link)
.


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ZoranC
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May 01, 2013 23:21 |  #1161

elv wrote in post #15888873 (external link)
Ok there are 3 methods from PocketWizard -

P2 via a sync cord:

This is actually the easiest way, as it uses the optimized results of a lot of coding work, and timing adjustments hard won through testing and reverse engineering.

1.) Connect the transmitting MiniTT1 to the PocketWizard Utility, and navigate to the HyperSync/HSS tab. Check "HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)" and click "Apply Changes."

2.) Set the flash to full power (in H-mode (FP HSS) you could use other power levels once this is confirmed working)

3.) Take a few shots with your camera set at your desired HyperSync Speed. If the results aren't satisfactory, connect the receiving FlexTT5 to the PocketWizard Utility, and navigate to the HyperSync/HSS tab. Adjust the settings in the dropdown next to "P2 Flash duration" and click "Apply Changes."

Cheetah flash in the top shoe.

1.) Connect the FlexTT5 the Cheetah will be set upon to the PocketWizard Utility, navigate to the "Misc" tab, and check "Basic Trigger Mode." This flash is not compatible with the ControlTL system, and needs to be used in Basic Trigger mode for consistent results.

2.) Connect the transmitting MiniTT1 to the PocketWizard Utility, and navigate to the HyperSync/HSS tab. Check "HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)" and "Apply Changes."

3.) Take a few shots at your desired HyperSync shutter speed. If you're not happy with the results, connect the MiniTT1 to the PocketWizard Utility, navigate to the "HyperSync/HSS" tab, and adjust the settings in the drop down next to "HyperSync Flash Duration for Standard Channels."

I will say that the P2 port will generally give better results because it uses ControlTL signals. Basic Trigger mode uses Standard Channel signals. When triggering above X-sync, Standard Channel signals go out last, and with cameras with limited timing windows, can result in worse performance.

There's also a third method to try to get seamless performance at 1/8000th...but it's not optimized. It involves the P2 port. It's effectively the same as the P2 setting above, but you do not check "HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)"

1.) Set the flash to full power ( in H-mode (FP HSS) you could use other power levels once this is confirmed working)

3.) Take a few shots with your camera set at your desired HyperSync Speed. If the results aren't satisfactory, connect the receiving FlexTT5 to the PocketWizard Utility, and navigate to the HyperSync/HSS tab. Adjust the settings in the dropdown next to "P2 Flash duration" and click "Apply Changes."

There is an image of the PocketWizard utlilty here for anyone trying to follow this -

http://wiki.pocketwiza​rd.com/images/e/ed/Hyp​erSyncHSS.jpg (external link)
.

Thank you! I will try this as soon as I can (it won't be this weekend as I have very important family time but I will try next one).

In the meantime if I decide to pick up a set of Pixel Kings just to have a way of double-checking things where would be best place to get them and which model I should look for / which model is best (I am obviously not familiar with the brand)?




  
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elv
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May 01, 2013 23:31 |  #1162

ZoranC wrote in post #15889085 (external link)
Thank you! I will try this as soon as I can (it won't be this weekend as I have very important family time but I will try next one).

In the meantime if I decide to pick up a set of Pixel Kings just to have a way of double-checking things where would be best place to get them and which model I should look for / which model is best (I am obviously not familiar with the brand)?

I wouldn't bother with the Kings for Nikon unless you really need them. Dave would probably give them to you. YongNuo will have the YN-622N for Nikon soon and they are much more refined (and cheaper).

You should be able to get the PocketWizards working though, its frustrating they don't just have a simple manual timing adjustment, but hopefully the first method works straight off the bat, as that looks like the best chance.
.


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ZoranC
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May 02, 2013 01:14 |  #1163

elv wrote in post #15889101 (external link)
I wouldn't bother with the Kings for Nikon unless you really need them. Dave would probably give them to you. YongNuo will have the YN-622N for Nikon soon and they are much more refined (and cheaper).

You should be able to get the PocketWizards working though, its frustrating they don't just have a simple manual timing adjustment, but hopefully the first method works straight off the bat, as that looks like the best chance.
.

Thank you!




  
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tetrode
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May 02, 2013 20:05 |  #1164

To return, briefly, to the Quantum QF63 Telephoto Reflector and tube spacer:

Today I received a current version QF63S tube spacer. With some persuasion and as Rand reported, the CL-180 flashtube will seat fully in the new style spacer. The flashtube will not seat fully in the first generation spacer.

Moving on to the 360: The flashtube cannot be fully inserted into the new style spacer. Even after applying more force than I probably should have, about 1/8" - 3/16" of pin was exposed between the base of the tube and the top of the Quantum spacer. The good news is that the tube will fire.

A quick test in the backyard comparing perfomance of the Telephoto Reflector on a 360 with and without the spacer.

Godox 360, half power, ISO 100, f/16, flash-to-subject (wall) distance = 25', with the tube spacer:

IMAGE: http://f.cl.ly/items/3a302H3z3V42103O2x38/Godox_360_QF63_Test_1.jpg

Same setup and settings but without the tube spacer:

IMAGE: http://f.cl.ly/items/1t0W0x3C1y270F291K2x/Godox_360_QF63_Test_2.jpg

Same setup but at f/8 and, again, without the tube spacer:

IMAGE: http://f.cl.ly/items/0Z1F122A353B0n2f371T/Godox_360_QF63_Test_3.jpg

I also metered flash output with the Telephoto reflector and tube spacer at a distance of 50' with the flash at full power, ISO 100. Reading was f/5.6



  
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dmward
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May 02, 2013 22:07 |  #1165

Dave, The Tele reflector and spacer you put me onto arrived Tuesday.
Unfortunately I found it on the door step after returning from a shoot testing the CL-180 in bright sun.

I did a baseline test today in the living room. Stand with the CL-180 was 11 ft from standing with Manny.

ISO 200, 1/200, CL-180 M 1/1 with standard reflector; F11.
H mode 1/1, everything else the same F 8.

Added the tele reflector and spacer. (The flash tube pins would only go into the space about half way. about 1/8 to 3/16 still outside. There was good contact and the flash fired without incident.)

F16 in H mode with everything else the same. So, the tele reflector appears to offer 2 stops advantage, which makes up for the one stop lose between M and H modes.

Coverage could be an issue. I decided on 11 feet since that's probably as far away as I'd need to place the light.


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tetrode
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May 02, 2013 22:14 |  #1166

dmward wrote in post #15892376 (external link)
Dave, The Tele reflector and spacer you put me onto arrived Tuesday.
Unfortunately I found it on the door step after returning from a shoot testing the CL-180 in bright sun.

I did a baseline test today in the living room. Stand with the CL-180 was 11 ft from standing with Manny.

ISO 200, 1/200, CL-180 M 1/1 with standard reflector; F11.
H mode 1/1, everything else the same F 8.

Added the tele reflector and spacer. (The flash tube pins would only go into the space about half way. about 1/8 to 3/16 still outside. There was good contact and the flash fired without incident.)

F16 in H mode with everything else the same. So, the tele reflector appears to offer 2 stops advantage, which makes up for the one stop lose between M and H modes.

Coverage could be an issue. I decided on 11 feet since that's probably as far away as I'd need to place the light.

The flashtube really should be able to be fully inserted into the spacer you have, David. The newer style spacer was pictured in the eBay listing so I assume that's what you were sent. As I said in my post above, a bit of persuasion was required but I was able to seat the tube fully in the spacer.




  
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agv8or
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May 02, 2013 23:23 |  #1167

tetrode wrote in post #15892403 (external link)
The flashtube really should be able to be fully inserted into the spacer you have, David. The newer style spacer was pictured in the eBay listing so I assume that's what you were sent. As I said in my post above, a bit of persuasion was required but I was able to seat the tube fully in the spacer.

Dave is the 360 flash bulb pins a little different that you could not get it seated all the way into the spacer? I am assuming by this post and your previous post that you were able to get the flash tube from the 180's seated but not the 360's? I picked up another CL 180 and 2 more QTR's (for some more testing which will follow) and one of my spacers was a little stubborn but being the redneck I am I just kept working the bulb in and out till it finally bottomed. Your tests above look very promising for the 360 and their release cannot come soon enough.


Rand

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agv8or
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May 02, 2013 23:31 as a reply to  @ agv8or's post |  #1168

HSS CL 180 and QTR Test round 2

So I had a wild hair as to what could be done with 3 CL 180's each fitted with QTR's (Quantum Telephoto Reflector). Here is the setup and the placement of the light for the first test. I wanted to replicate my previous test with the Flashpoint umbrella test ( https://photography-on-the.net …p=15876348&post​count=1135 ) so I used the same settings and flash to subject distance. Test images and info in the next post.


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agv8or
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May 02, 2013 23:37 as a reply to  @ agv8or's post |  #1169

HSS CL 180 and QTR Test round 2

3 CL 180's fitted with QTR's in a Westcott Apollo Orb

Settings same for both images and based on the first image in this post ( https://photography-on-the.net …p=15876356&post​count=1136 )
Canon 5D mII
1/6400
F/ 8
ISO 400
CL 180's 1/1 power in H mode

First image: The front diffuser was used and the distance from the face of diffuser to the subject was 22".

Second image: The front diffuser ws removed but the light stand was left in place.


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agv8or
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May 02, 2013 23:46 as a reply to  @ agv8or's post |  #1170

HSS CL 180 and QTR Test round 2

Again I wanted a comparrison to my previous test with the Flashpoint umbrella and CL 180 with QTR ( https://photography-on-the.net …p=15876348&post​count=1135 ) but this time using a Westcott 43" Collapsible White Umbrella and 3 CL 180's each with a QTR. The following is the setup and the image created with this setup using the same settings and distance as in the first image in the this post ( https://photography-on-the.net …p=15876356&post​count=1136 ).

Second image settings
Canon 5D mII
1/6400
F/ 8
ISO 400
Face of umbrella to subject 22"
CL 180's 1/1 power mode H


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A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives
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