A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

windpig wrote in post #15900069
It looks like your flash is being used as fill to me and that the ratio isn't high enough (to much fill). The sun isn't far enough behind the subjects to be accent and looks to be the main light.

I think that's more or less what I just said. The CL-180 could probably have been backed off a little, but I did want to pop UZI relative to the background.

It would have been ideal to have the sun a bit more around in back but the path was were it was and UZI was an impatient subject. After about three tries he was ready to go do something else.

dmward wrote in post #15900222
I think that's more or less what I just said. The CL-180 could probably have been backed off a little, but I did want to pop UZI relative to the background.

It would have been ideal to have the sun a bit more around in back but the path was were it was and UZI was an impatient subject. After about three tries he was ready to go do something else.

dmward wrote in post #15899409
My general lighting scheme is to place the light opposite the sun and then move the camera about 30 to 45* off that line so the sun is quartering backlight kicker and strobe is quartering main light.

Hmm, not sure about more or less. "Sun is quarter backlight, strobe is main"

Bobby, here are some test shots to see what power settings on the CL-180 do relative to strong sun from behind.

1/6400, ISO 50, 24mm F1.4 wide open.

First one is full power (one finger raised). Next one is half power (2 fingers)

Next post will be quarter power and a pull back shot.

and quarter power and pull back

windpig wrote in post #15900252
Hmm, not sure about more or less. "Sun is quarter backlight, strobe is fill"

Actually the light is opposite the sun. Given the position of the dog it appears to be closer to camera axis. One takes what one can get in some situations with uncooperative subjects.

The point of these examples is to illustrate the usefulness of a CL-180 in H mode when shooting outside on a sunny day. Let's stay focused on that. These are not works of art. They do illustrate that the CL-180 is a useful tool.

Still not my taste. Bare bulb is still very small source and it is much harder to nail the final shot than when using bigger modifiers. I like what Frank Doorhef (spelling) does with bare bulb and sun.

I have another data point to toss in the hopper:

I was *really* hoping this grid would fit the CL-180 standard reflector:

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …oneycomb_Grid_4​_5_20.html

I was at B&H today and, unfortunately, it does not. The grid diameter is one or two mm too large. Drat!

I'm sure if enough people request it, honey grids will make some. Their grids are good.

Or you could DIY

http://www.honeycombgr​ids.com/diy-grid-panels

Gareth ONeill wrote in post #15901331
=Gareth O'Neill;15901331]I'm sure if enough people request it, honey grids will make some. Their grids are good.

Or you could DIY

http://www.honeycombgr​ids.com/diy-grid-panels

See the image on this page:

http://www.adorama.com​/HGE15.html

That's MY photo of MY Maxilite with a Honeygrid. It took three tries to get a grid that fit. Not sure I'd want to risk reliving that experience.

LOL, lets go on and on about it on here then and maybe they'll take the hint.

bobbyz wrote in post #15901272
Still not my taste. Bare bulb is still very small source and it is much harder to nail the final shot than when using bigger modifiers. I like what Frank Doorhef (spelling) does with bare bulb and sun.

Bobby, first any tube is a small light source relative to a subject. Butting modifiers on any light is going to affect its output. Making the source larger means spreading the power of the tube over a larger area. The same is true with a CL-180 or a 1200Ws Profoto head.

FD uses Elinchrom lights, at least for his Kelby Training videos. Almost always in the shade with reflectors, sometimes a small soft box.

It would be easy to replicate the FD look with a CL-180, an Einstein, or even a speedlite.

The purpose of these examples is to illustrate how the CL-180 performs.

If I have time in the next couple of days, I'll find an FD image shot outside and replicate the look with a CL-180.

I just invested a few minutes going through FD's portfolio images on his website.
What is most significant is that he uses a lot of different lighting techniques to get the image he wants.
Also, there are almost no images that are outside in the sun with strobes for fill. At least nothing obvious. So, if he used strobe along with the sun he balanced them so well its not obvious.

Post some links please.

Here is another image from the test shoot

tetrode wrote in post #15901406
See the image on this page:

http://www.adorama.com​/HGE15.html

That's MY photo of MY Maxilite with a Honeygrid. It took three tries to get a grid that fit. Not sure I'd want to risk reliving that experience.

I bought my 2 Honey Grids for my Fireballs early last Fall and they have 4 Velcro tabs you use to attach them to the reflectors with. They supply 4 Velcro pads that you stick to the reflector. I guess that way they fit a little loose and the Velcro keeps them from falling out.

Honeycombs are real easy to make smaller. I bought several deep grid reflectors and some grids from the same manufacturer but I found that the grids I bought were just a bit too large for my deep reflectors as they were designed to fit their standard reflectors. The seller offered to take them back as I have done a lot of business with them but I decided to see if I could make them fit. All you have to do is just drill out one of the rivets where the outside ring is joined together. Remove the honeycomb and with a stationary belt sander sand it to fit the circumference of the reflector. With a hack saw cut the end off the ring so it is the correct circumfrence and drill a new hole for a rivet. Reinstall the honeycomb grid and install a new pop rivet. It takes less than 10 minutes per grid.

I thought I'd share my battery pack hanger "solution" since finding a good way to attach the Lithium 4500 pack to a light stand riser is a subject of interest to many. While there are a number of good off-the-shelf clamps such as the nice but pricey Bolt pack holder from B&H (http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …g_clamp_for_por​table.html), I really wanted to find something less expensive.

Enter the studio "C" clamp:

Great work Dave!

Off topic but you know I have also searched everywhere for a female 5/8" connector like the part you discarded from that clamp. Shame that one doesn't have a 1/4" threaded hole in the centre of the base or it would be perfect. Its the closest I've seen for now though, thanks.
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