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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 26 Jan 2013 (Saturday) 10:20
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A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

 
windpig
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May 09, 2013 08:21 |  #1216

Dave, I'll now have in my minds eye that look Benny Hill had. You know, that impish look of "yes, I really did say that":lol::lol:


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I'm accross the canal just south of Ballard, the town Seattle usurped in 1907.

  
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PacAce
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May 09, 2013 11:20 |  #1217

tetrode wrote in post #15914015 (external link)
Not since Benny Hill went off the air.


(yes, I'm joking)

LOL, I was going to say the same thing but without the waver. LOL ;)


...Leo

  
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Whortleberry
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May 09, 2013 15:31 |  #1218

windpig wrote in post #15913833 (external link)
The only good TV available in Amerika is British TV.

If British TV is the only good thing on TV in America then you really do have my utmost sympathy. Very occasionally ours scrapes up to the level of total dross, usually it only warrants a description which would lead to an instant Forum ban for profanity. I'd MUCH rather tap holes in adapters. Much rather.


Phil ǁ Kershaw Soho Reflex: 4¼" Ross Xpres, 6½" Aldis, Super XX/ABC Pyro in 24 DDS, HP3/Meritol Metol in RFH, Johnson 'Scales' brand flash powder. Kodak Duo Six-20/Verichrome Pan. Other odd bits over the decades, simply to get the job done - not merely to polish and brag about cos I'm too mean to buy the polish!
FlickR (external link) ◄► "The Other Yongnuo User Guide v4.12" by Clive Bolton (external link) ◄► UK Railway Photographs 1906-79 (external link)

  
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windpig
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May 09, 2013 16:15 |  #1219

Have pity on us Amerikans. I killed my TV years ago.


Would you like to buy a vowel?
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I'm accross the canal just south of Ballard, the town Seattle usurped in 1907.

  
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symbolphoto
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May 09, 2013 23:28 |  #1220

Any updated on the CL360? Growing impatient. :)




  
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iituner
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May 10, 2013 17:32 |  #1221

tetrode wrote in post #15913072 (external link)
This is true, Elv. Even though I do have a bottoming tap, I elected to drill and tap straight through. There's more thread than you'd ever need (and, man, was it ever tedious trying to get the tap all the way through).

EDIT: And it looks like that very clamp might be available right your own backyard, Elv:

http://www.camtoolbox.​com …f-cclamp-with-socket.html (external link)

Components Falcon Eyes have a plastic holder for the spigot
Unfortunately, they are not suitable for such improvements
I have a couple. .


WWW.YN622.RU (external link) CANON EOS 70D | EF 50mm F/1.4 USM | EF 24-105mm F/4L IS USM | EF-S 10-18mm F/4.5-5.6 IS STM | JINBEI DPIII600 | EINSTEIN E-640+CC/CST/CSXCV/CSR | YONGNUO: YN600EX-RT, YN-E3-RT, YNE3-RX, YN622C-TX, YN622C, RF-605C | SHANNY: SN-E3-RT, SN600C-RT, SN-E3-RF, SN600EX-RF, SN600C-RF, SN600SC, SN600SN, SN910EX-RF | PIXEL X800C (bulb dead)

  
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elv
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May 10, 2013 20:02 |  #1222

symbolphoto wrote in post #15916902 (external link)
Any updated on the CL360? Growing impatient. :)

The last I heard was aprox May 25th. That's only a couple of weeks away now though so I'm not sure on that.

I think they will post pre-order deals when they know for sure though anyway.
.


FLASHHAVOC.COM (external link)

  
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ZoranC
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May 10, 2013 22:40 |  #1223

elv wrote in post #15919864 (external link)
The last I heard was aprox May 25th. That's only a couple of weeks away now though so I'm not sure on that.

I think they will post pre-order deals when they know for sure though anyway.
.

Please keep us posted :)




  
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FJ ­ LOVE
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May 10, 2013 22:54 |  #1224

elv wrote in post #15919864 (external link)
The last I heard was aprox May 25th. That's only a couple of weeks away now though so I'm not sure on that.

I think they will post pre-order deals when they know for sure though anyway.
.

thanks, can't wait :D


DILLIGAF about your bicycle or your gear

  
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ZoranC
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May 10, 2013 22:59 |  #1225

elv wrote in post #15888873 (external link)
Ok there are 3 methods from PocketWizard -

P2 via a sync cord:

This is actually the easiest way, as it uses the optimized results of a lot of coding work, and timing adjustments hard won through testing and reverse engineering.

1.) Connect the transmitting MiniTT1 to the PocketWizard Utility, and navigate to the HyperSync/HSS tab. Check "HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)" and click "Apply Changes."

2.) Set the flash to full power (in H-mode (FP HSS) you could use other power levels once this is confirmed working)

3.) Take a few shots with your camera set at your desired HyperSync Speed. If the results aren't satisfactory, connect the receiving FlexTT5 to the PocketWizard Utility, and navigate to the HyperSync/HSS tab. Adjust the settings in the dropdown next to "P2 Flash duration" and click "Apply Changes."

Cheetah flash in the top shoe.

1.) Connect the FlexTT5 the Cheetah will be set upon to the PocketWizard Utility, navigate to the "Misc" tab, and check "Basic Trigger Mode." This flash is not compatible with the ControlTL system, and needs to be used in Basic Trigger mode for consistent results.

2.) Connect the transmitting MiniTT1 to the PocketWizard Utility, and navigate to the HyperSync/HSS tab. Check "HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)" and "Apply Changes."

3.) Take a few shots at your desired HyperSync shutter speed. If you're not happy with the results, connect the MiniTT1 to the PocketWizard Utility, navigate to the "HyperSync/HSS" tab, and adjust the settings in the drop down next to "HyperSync Flash Duration for Standard Channels."

I will say that the P2 port will generally give better results because it uses ControlTL signals. Basic Trigger mode uses Standard Channel signals. When triggering above X-sync, Standard Channel signals go out last, and with cameras with limited timing windows, can result in worse performance.

There's also a third method to try to get seamless performance at 1/8000th...but it's not optimized. It involves the P2 port. It's effectively the same as the P2 setting above, but you do not check "HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)"

1.) Set the flash to full power ( in H-mode (FP HSS) you could use other power levels once this is confirmed working)

3.) Take a few shots with your camera set at your desired HyperSync Speed. If the results aren't satisfactory, connect the receiving FlexTT5 to the PocketWizard Utility, and navigate to the HyperSync/HSS tab. Adjust the settings in the dropdown next to "P2 Flash duration" and click "Apply Changes."

There is an image of the PocketWizard utlilty here for anyone trying to follow this -

http://wiki.pocketwiza​rd.com/images/e/ed/Hyp​erSyncHSS.jpg (external link)
.

I have tried method # 1 (P2 via a sync cord) with my D700. It did not work for me. Here are my findings:

At default factory setting of 7 for P2 HyperSync flash duration I would get black bar at lower rough approximate 5% of pixels. Changing that to 1 gave me black bar at lower approximate 50% of pixels. Changing it to 8, 9 or 10 still gave me black bar at lower rough approximate 5% of pixels. What I should try next?




  
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elv
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May 11, 2013 22:15 |  #1226

ZoranC wrote in post #15920266 (external link)
I have tried method # 1 (P2 via a sync cord) with my D700. It did not work for me. Here are my findings:

At default factory setting of 7 for P2 HyperSync flash duration I would get black bar at lower rough approximate 5% of pixels. Changing that to 1 gave me black bar at lower approximate 50% of pixels. Changing it to 8, 9 or 10 still gave me black bar at lower rough approximate 5% of pixels. What I should try next?

Hi Zoran, thanks for trying that.

5% is awfully close to a full frame, so you're certainly getting close.


Just checking but you do have H-mode turned on on the flash? And you are changing graduations on the receiving TT5 not the TT1 transmitter?

Can you try 6, 5, and 4. If that doesn't get any better I'll pass this on to Chris and see if he has any ideas.


Also try switching H-mode off quickly at the same setting (flash on full power) and see if pure hypersync happens to get any more frame. Thanks again.
.


FLASHHAVOC.COM (external link)

  
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elv
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May 11, 2013 22:21 as a reply to  @ elv's post |  #1227

Hi Zoran,

You may as well try method 3 at the same time, just uncheck the - "HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)" on the TT1.

To be honest I can't quite get my head around the effect that should have, but you may as well give it a try.
.


FLASHHAVOC.COM (external link)

  
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ZoranC
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May 13, 2013 00:33 |  #1228

elv wrote in post #15922898 (external link)
Just checking but you do have H-mode turned on on the flash?

Yes.

elv wrote in post #15922898 (external link)
And you are changing graduations on the receiving TT5 not the TT1 transmitter?

Correct.

elv wrote in post #15922898 (external link)
Can you try 6, 5, and 4. ... Also try switching H-mode off quickly at the same setting (flash on full power) and see if pure hypersync happens to get any more frame. ... You may as well try method 3 at the same time, just uncheck the - "HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)" on the TT1

Will do.




  
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usdm
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May 15, 2013 22:27 |  #1229

elv wrote in post #15888873 (external link)
Ok there are 3 methods from PocketWizard -

P2 via a sync cord:

This is actually the easiest way, as it uses the optimized results of a lot of coding work, and timing adjustments hard won through testing and reverse engineering.

1.) Connect the transmitting MiniTT1 to the PocketWizard Utility, and navigate to the HyperSync/HSS tab. Check "HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)" and click "Apply Changes."

2.) Set the flash to full power (in H-mode (FP HSS) you could use other power levels once this is confirmed working)

3.) Take a few shots with your camera set at your desired HyperSync Speed. If the results aren't satisfactory, connect the receiving FlexTT5 to the PocketWizard Utility, and navigate to the HyperSync/HSS tab. Adjust the settings in the dropdown next to "P2 Flash duration" and click "Apply Changes."

Cheetah flash in the top shoe.

1.) Connect the FlexTT5 the Cheetah will be set upon to the PocketWizard Utility, navigate to the "Misc" tab, and check "Basic Trigger Mode." This flash is not compatible with the ControlTL system, and needs to be used in Basic Trigger mode for consistent results.

2.) Connect the transmitting MiniTT1 to the PocketWizard Utility, and navigate to the HyperSync/HSS tab. Check "HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)" and "Apply Changes."

3.) Take a few shots at your desired HyperSync shutter speed. If you're not happy with the results, connect the MiniTT1 to the PocketWizard Utility, navigate to the "HyperSync/HSS" tab, and adjust the settings in the drop down next to "HyperSync Flash Duration for Standard Channels."

I will say that the P2 port will generally give better results because it uses ControlTL signals. Basic Trigger mode uses Standard Channel signals. When triggering above X-sync, Standard Channel signals go out last, and with cameras with limited timing windows, can result in worse performance.

There's also a third method to try to get seamless performance at 1/8000th...but it's not optimized. It involves the P2 port. It's effectively the same as the P2 setting above, but you do not check "HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)"

1.) Set the flash to full power ( in H-mode (FP HSS) you could use other power levels once this is confirmed working)

3.) Take a few shots with your camera set at your desired HyperSync Speed. If the results aren't satisfactory, connect the receiving FlexTT5 to the PocketWizard Utility, and navigate to the HyperSync/HSS tab. Adjust the settings in the dropdown next to "P2 Flash duration" and click "Apply Changes."

There is an image of the PocketWizard utlilty here for anyone trying to follow this -

http://wiki.pocketwiza​rd.com/images/e/ed/Hyp​erSyncHSS.jpg (external link)
.

Great thread guys!

Do you know if the CL180 will work with the AC3?


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dmward
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May 15, 2013 22:35 |  #1230

usdm wrote in post #15936524 (external link)
Great thread guys!

Do you know if the CL180 will work with the AC3?

No.
The AC3 requires that all the speedlites on the FlexTT5s are in ETTL mode. CL-180 knows nothing about ETTL.


David | Sharing my Insights, Knowledge & Experience (external link) | dmwfotos website (external link)

  
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A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives
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