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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 31 Jan 2013 (Thursday) 14:31
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Modding an Alien Bee's modelling light

 
Ben ­ Rubinstein
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Jan 31, 2013 14:31 |  #1

Hi,

The modelling light in my alien bee B800's is a 150 watt lamp. Can I buy a 135 watt fluorescent tube which will give an output of 650w equivalent tungsten so that I can use it as a 'hot light' rather than a flash for a specific project? The 150w isn't cutting it but I don't want to invest in new heads just for one project. I realise I may have to take the flash tube out just to fit it in.

Thanks!




  
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bdillon
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Jan 31, 2013 14:38 |  #2

Covered quite well on PCB's site:

http://www.paulcbuff-techforum.com …pic.php?f=8&t=2​12&start=0 (external link)




  
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Ben ­ Rubinstein
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Jan 31, 2013 14:43 |  #3

oh well, back to the drawing board... :)




  
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Curtis ­ N
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Jan 31, 2013 15:17 |  #4

I use 250w halogens in my Alienbees. Never had a problem, electrically speaking. I almost always use them at full power, regardless of strobe power setting. They do get really hot, the socks on the diffusion panels of my Softlighters are burned because I neglected to properly stretch the sock over the monolight case.


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Ben ­ Rubinstein
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Jan 31, 2013 15:20 |  #5

Do they actually provide 250W or is it 150W worth of power out of that bulb?




  
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Curtis ­ N
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Jan 31, 2013 15:27 |  #6

Well I never put an amp meter on them, but they are definitely brighter than a 150w bulb. I'm pretty sure they're using all 250 watts.


"If you're not having fun, your pictures will reflect that." - Joe McNally
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Ben ­ Rubinstein
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Feb 01, 2013 07:10 |  #7

Suppose I could get one of these:

http://www.lamps2udire​ct.com …ographic_Light_​Bulb/67023 (external link)

What chance that I burn out my alien bee with a lamp of higher wattage than it's specced for?




  
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Ben ­ Rubinstein
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Feb 01, 2013 07:13 |  #8

Interestingly that link above from the PB forums still doesn't answer the question whether there would be a problem if you are using the bulb at full power without dimmer and without cycle other than PBuff saying that they make 'lousy modelling lights'.




  
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Curtis ­ N
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Feb 01, 2013 07:25 |  #9

Ben Rubinstein wrote in post #15559331 (external link)
Suppose I could get one of these:

http://www.lamps2udire​ct.com …ographic_Light_​Bulb/67023 (external link)

Did you read the average life? That's what they used to call a "hot light." That's not what you want.

Try something like this:
http://www.bulbamerica​.com …OLU24CZlbUCFSNq​MgodwGkAbg (external link)

What chance that I burn out my alien bee with a lamp of higher wattage than it's specced for?

Since that hasn't happened to me, and I've never heard of it happening, I'd say slightly less than 100%.

You pays yer money, you takes yer chances.


"If you're not having fun, your pictures will reflect that." - Joe McNally
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Ben ­ Rubinstein
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Feb 01, 2013 07:47 |  #10

Didn't see that lifetime, bleeding heck! I'm in the UK mate, I'll have a look for an equivalent here. 250W seems hard to find though the company I've been buying my 150W halogens from has this 205W version:

http://www.lamps2udire​ct.com …Display_Light_B​ulb/135892 (external link)




  
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SkipD
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Feb 01, 2013 08:01 |  #11

My AlienBees lights are rated for a maximum of 150 watt modeling lamps. I would not want to overheat them with 250 watt lamps.

Most fluorescent replacements would not work because they are not able to be "dimmed" and, even if they were, their output would very likely be different than incandescent lamp types at the various settings.


Skip Douglas
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..... but still learning all the time.

  
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Ben ­ Rubinstein
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Feb 01, 2013 08:10 |  #12

When using them as 'hot lights' they do not need to be dimmed. Therefore if that is the problem there is no problem is there keeping them lit at full power?




  
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Curtis ­ N
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Feb 01, 2013 08:59 |  #13

We have reached the limit of my knowledge of electricity. I don't know enough about the differences between the US and UK versions of Alienbees to offer further assistance, other than, well, sell them and buy some Einsteins.


"If you're not having fun, your pictures will reflect that." - Joe McNally
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dmward
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Feb 01, 2013 09:34 |  #14

Its my understanding that one of the biggest problems with fluorescent lights for constant lighting is the flicker they have and how it impacts shutter speed and color balance.

I presume the main reason for wanting to use the AB is so you can mount a modifier. I'd look for a 250W bulb that is long and thin to not interfere with the flash tube. The higher wattage should not be a problem other than heat.

Getting bulbs that offer consistent color temperature is probably a bigger deal.


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Curtis ­ N
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Feb 01, 2013 10:33 |  #15

dmward wrote in post #15559798 (external link)
Its my understanding that one of the biggest problems with fluorescent lights for constant lighting is the flicker they have and how it impacts shutter speed and color balance.

Yeah, but he's not using them for constant lighting. He's using them as modeling lights - to create a visual simulation of what the strobes will produce. They won't affect his images.

As an aside, CFL bulbs with electronic ballasts don't have the 60hz flicker problems associated with traditional fluorescent fixtures. But in terms of their wavelength spectrum and ability to accurately reproduce colors, they still suck.


"If you're not having fun, your pictures will reflect that." - Joe McNally
Chicago area POTN events (external link)
Flash Photography 101 | The EOS Flash Bible  (external link)| Techniques for Better On-Camera Flash (external link) | How to Use Flash Outdoors| Excel-based DOF Calculator (external link)

  
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Modding an Alien Bee's modelling light
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