Modding an Alien Bee's modelling light

Curtis N wrote in post #15560012
Yeah, but he's not using them for constant lighting. He's using them as modeling lights - to create a visual simulation of what the strobes will produce. They won't affect his images.

As an aside, CFL bulbs with electronic ballasts don't have the 60hz flicker problems associated with traditional fluorescent fixtures. But in terms of their wavelength spectrum and ability to accurately reproduce colors, they still suck.

Should have realized the electronic ballast would help with the flicker.

The OP says something about using the modeling lights as "hot lights". That's what led me to my conclusion.

150W CFLs with 650W equivalence is a BIG unit.

dmward wrote in post #15561430
The OP says something about using the modeling lights as "hot lights". That's what led me to my conclusion.

150W CFLs with 650W equivalence is a BIG unit.

You are correct. I missed that. Sorry.

In which case, I revert to my previous statement. Fluorescent lights suck for color reproduction. You can set the white balance to make grey look grey, but the reds will be dull and the yellows will be overwhelming.

Those interested in using CFLs for photography may want to check out the Spiderlites.
http://fjwestcott.com …s/?filter_lamp-sockets=28

I have seen these demonstrated. Even with 1200 effective watts, you need a subject that keeps still, a camera stand or tripod, and ISO 400 at least. I just don't know why someone would want to go that route if he has strobes.

The use is for a specific portrait project which will be shot at f1.4 with high iso so I'm just trying to max out my shutter speed with the light. All shooting is B&W so colour is not a problem however tonality might be with the fluorescent lights, I have to test that. Strobes won't work for this specific project for a couple of reasons, mainly as the portraits will be shot during an intimate type interview with the subjects and the lighting should be constant, the subjects need to be kept as much as possible at their ease. Thing is that it's a personal project with practically zero budget, enough for a new bulb but not new lights and mounts, etc.

Ben Rubinstein wrote in post #15563845
The use is for a specific portrait project which will be shot at f1.4 with high iso so I'm just trying to max out my shutter speed with the light. All shooting is B&W so colour is not a problem however tonality might be with the fluorescent lights, I have to test that. Strobes won't work for this specific project for a couple of reasons, mainly as the portraits will be shot during an intimate type interview with the subjects and the lighting should be constant, the subjects need to be kept as much as possible at their ease. Thing is that it's a personal project with practically zero budget, enough for a new bulb but not new lights and mounts, etc.

I'd much rather try doing something like that with LED video lights. If its getting the light soft, then put a translucent pop out reflector between the subject and the light.

650 watts equivalent output doesn't sound very intimate to me.

Lightstands, modifiers etc. would seem to disrupt the intimacy as well. High ISO, wide aperture already means that it won't take much flash power. Sounds like just about every wedding reception in fact. And there a speedlite bounced into a wall is plenty.

Ben Rubinstein wrote in post #15563845
The use is for a specific portrait project which will be shot at f1.4 with high iso so I'm just trying to max out my shutter speed with the light. All shooting is B&W so colour is not a problem however tonality might be with the fluorescent lights, I have to test that. Strobes won't work for this specific project for a couple of reasons, mainly as the portraits will be shot during an intimate type interview with the subjects and the lighting should be constant, the subjects need to be kept as much as possible at their ease. Thing is that it's a personal project with practically zero budget, enough for a new bulb but not new lights and mounts, etc.

dmward wrote in post #15564052
650 watts equivalent output doesn't sound very intimate to me.

I agree with dmward's statement. In addition, I think it would be a stretch to be able to work with the f/1.4 and a suitable shutter speed to avoid camera motion blur and/or subject motion blur without having the lights right in the subject's faces.

Well if you don't want to use flash, and you're willing to live with f/1.4 and high ISO, then I think the 250w halogen (or similar) route would be viable.

I'm confused on the specs of the 220v version of the Alienbees because they say they take a 150w bulb. But if it's pushing 220 volts through that bulb then it would be twice as bright as here in the states. However, if the unit has a transmitter to bring the line power down to 120 volts, then you would need to buy a US type bulb designed for that voltage.

Curtis,
One can purchase a 150W 220 volt bulb. I've seen them all over europe.

I think the problem is that the specs for the 220V unit on the UK site were cut and pasted from the US site and someone forgot to change the voltage spec.

Similar problem with the link to the replacement bulb.

Guys, with a 150 watt bulb in an umbrella box I'm getting a 1/125. To be honest I could live with that using a 50mm lens but I've got shaky hands and could always use more, especially with 22 megapixels on a 5D3. Don't get me wrong, this is a portraiture project not an interview, the idea though is to capture expressions while thinking about questions that have been posed to them and flash would break up the spontaneity of the flow. The stuff like the lighting however will not be a problem for subjects who come in knowing that they are to be photographed.

The bottom of page 7 in the AB manual specifically says:

Depending on who you believe, between 93% and 97% of the energy output of an incandescent bulb is HEAT. Putting a 250W bulb in something designed for maximum 150W is simply asking for trouble, especially if you use snoots or small grid reflectors which retain the heat. You may very well get away with it but there's always the possibility of shortening unit life expectancy - bit pricey.

Alternative bulbs can be obtained from Karlu but ON YOUR OWN HEAD BE IT. Personally, I wouldn't do it (I usually go the other way and use lower ratings) but at least now you have the information. An alternative source for your 150W bulbs would be my friend Sean at Bessel Studio Lighting

Ben Rubinstein wrote in post #15566643
Guys, with a 150 watt bulb in an umbrella box I'm getting a 1/125. To be honest I could live with that using a 50mm lens but I've got shaky hands and could always use more, especially with 22 megapixels on a 5D3. Don't get me wrong, this is a portraiture project not an interview, the idea though is to capture expressions while thinking about questions that have been posed to them and flash would break up the spontaneity of the flow. The stuff like the lighting however will not be a problem for subjects who come in knowing that they are to be photographed.

Based on your description of the situation, it seems speedlites mounted in appropriate modifies would work.

By having ambient light up and having the speedlites provide lighting at higher ISO they won't be "popping". Even the studio lights won't pop at lower power settings. If you go with studio strobes and modeling lights set high with lower power flash. The flash will make the exposure and the flash in the modifier will be subdued.

Or, find the thread here on PoN that describes how to make your own Kino Flow lights.
They are big and bright but the "hot ticket" with head shot photographers ala Peter Hurley right now.

Flash is no. Period.

David, I shot weddings professionally for 10 years and now run and manage a high end repro studio for a museum with a large bundle of profoto lights and Leaf MFDB's. I know what I want and how to get it for lighting. I have already the look and feel I want and the ambience required, just looking into getting a couple more stops of shutter speed. This is a private project working with some of the students from a local college where I teach so unfortunately it's private equipment, I can't tap into the studios gear. I'm not looking into investing any more than about $20 or so on a bulb.

p.s. although I use a pair of 580II's on a stand for wedding lighting, I really would not advise anyone using them for studio work, consistency in output is lacking, I've burnt out flash bulbs doing it and the light shape is way way wrong. It's just not the correct tool in a studio.