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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 01 Feb 2013 (Friday) 15:44
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Finally got a 60D, now some initial questions

 
amfoto1
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Feb 02, 2013 12:21 |  #16

I was finally able to buy a 60D, battery is currently on the charger. I got it with the 18-135mm kit lens, a 32gb class10 card, and a polarizer filter.

1. Is there some sort of a car charger for the battery? I know I can find an answer but maybe someone will have a good suggestion that I might overlook.

Just get a second battery (maybe two)... LP-E6 are rated to 1100 shots with "normal" usage. I use a few power saving tricks and easily get 1200+ per charge. You'll probably need more memory cards, too, if you plan to shoot more than one battery can handle in a day's shooting (Note: I don't use big cards, don't want to put all my eggs in one basket. I have fourteen 8GB cards and a couple 16GB for use in two 7Ds and a 5DII... 8GB is good for about 275 RAW files.)

With all my Canon I've always used vertical grips, which double the number of batteries to two. With earlier Canon digital cameras that used BP511/511A, I used to carry two backup batteries for every battery in-camera. I often had to change out batteries later in a heavy day of shooting. Now using more recent models that use the LP-E6 (the same batt as your 60D, though the cameras are 7D and 5DII in my case) I only carry one backup per battery in-camera. I rarely need to swap in the course of a shooting day, and sometimes shoot upwards of 5000 images a day with a pair of 7Ds (roughly 2500 images apiece, with two batteries in each).

Now, I have my cameras set to sleep quickly (they wake up instantly so this isn't a problem). I also don't use the built-in flash, which gobbles up battery power. Another significant power saving trick is turning off automatic review of every image. I do call up images and their histograms to check them every so often, but not every one. Live View shooting, Mirror Lockup and long exposures all also consume a lot of power. Shooting video does, too. Any time the mirror is held flipped up and the shutter remains open, both are drawing power continuously. On the other hand, metering, Auto Focus and Image Stabilization do not use a lot of power.

2. Can I use the flash unit I have from my ancient Canon AE-1 film camera on the 60D? This will just be until I can save up for some new lighting gear.

Maybe. Depending upon the flash, it might be usable manually, or it may be possible to use with the old style thyristor auto mode (where the flash's built in metering shuts it off when there is adequate exposure).

If the flash is something like an old Vivitar or Sunpak with a single contact, that's universal and not dedicated. I'd think twice about using any of the Canon EZ (early EOS) or xxxA or xxxT (for FD/FL mount cameras). The EZ are partially usable, but limited in usefulness on today's EOS. The xxxA and xxxT Speedlites of the 60s, 70s and 80s have a completely different form of dedication and might cause issues on a modern camera. I don't think I'd even mount on in the hot shoe, just as a precaution.

There is far more automation and ease of use with modern flashes, designed to work with your camera. I'd suggest you consider a 430 EX or 580 EX. Heck, even the simple little 270 EX will often do a better job a lot more easily than those old flashes. There are also some cheaper third party flashes that are pretty good, certainly will be much better than the older flashes. You don't need to spend a lot to get the conveniences of modern ETTL, etc.

3. Any recommendations for a remote shutter release? I know that my old film camera shutter cables won't work.

There are both wired and wireless remote releases available for your camera. They also can simply be a remote shutter release, or have more features such as timers and time lapse/multi-exposure capabilities. Shop around. Canon offers them, but many others also offer them at lower prices.

4. What are the initial basic accessories that I should get? I'm thinking one of those RocketFish blowers or something and other stuff that might not transfer well from my film gear to this digital world.

Eventually you will need to clean the sensor of your camera. Go to www.cleaningdigitalcam​eras.com (external link) and start reading, decide if you want to do the deeper cleanings yourself or not. If not, at least get a Rocket Blower to puff away loose dust. If you do want to learn to do full cleanings, you'll need more stuff (the first cleaning of any camera must be a "wet cleaning" to remove oily residues.... such as the "Copperhill Method". Subsequent cleanings might be possible with dry methods.)

Lens cleaning is the same as with your film cameras.

I suggest getting the matched lens hood for your lens. It protects the lens and can help your images, cannot do any harm. If the Canon hood seems pricey, search for third party clones that are cheaper.

5. Any recommendations for rain/snow gear for the camera and lens? I tend to get caught outside in wet conditions at times while playing with photography and want to have something handy that I can keep handy in a camera bag or coat pocket.

I just use plastic bags, gaffer tape and rubber bands. I also have $3 plastic ponchos in my camera bags and car, to keep both me and the gear dry.

There are fancier and more expensive "rain coats" for camera and lens, but I've never found them necessary.

6. I've picked up some old Canon EOS film cameras at thrift shops with various lenses on them over the last few years. I there any chance that I'll damage or blow up something in the 60D if I try those old lenses on the camera? Two are Canon's ( short zoom and a cheap mid-range zoom, one is a Sigma short zoom, and one is a clone "white body" longer zoom). All the lenses seem to work on the EOS film cameras so I thought I might play with them on the 60D if they won't cause any harm.

You won't damage your camera trying out those lenses, so long as they are EF mount. The Canon lenses almost certainly will work. AFAIK, there are no compatibility issues among EF lenses and EOS cameras, throughout the 20+ years that they've been made.

The Sigma lenses, on the other hand, aren't guaranteed. Some older Sigma are incompatible with newer Canon cameras. As soon as you try to focus, the camera might lock up with an Err code displayed on the LCD. Just remove the lens, turn the camera off and back on... maybe you'll need to pull the battery and reinstall it... no harm will be done, but the lens won't be usable. I have an older Sigma 28-75mm that works fine on EOS-3 (film) and 10D (digital) but won't work with more recent 50D, 7D, 5DII cameras.

If you send them in for service, Sigma will fix some of the higher end lenses, updating them to work on newer Canon. If you have a Sigma 70-200/2.8 or 300/2.8 or 500/4.5, it might be possible to have it updated. But a cheapie like my 28-75 isn't even worth sending in (I paid $7 US for it).

You sound as if you have some photography experience, so may or may not find the book "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson (external link) helpful. But, hey, it even taught this old dog some new tricks, so you might enjoy it or find it a useful refresher.

I would recommend buyingone or two of the guide books specifically for 60D (external link), to help you get up to speed with the camera as quickly and easily as possible. I don't have 60D, but have bought guide books by Charlotte Lowrie, Michael Guncheon and David Busch, and feel comfortable recommending all of them.

You mention some older EOS film cameras, but if you are new to the Canon AF systems of today, suggest watching this YouTube video (external link), plus the other two in the series (each is about 1/2 hour). These cover the basics and gets into a lot helpful details about using the systems on various cameras.

If you haven't done much digital photography, post production is another big consideration. In effect, you are now your own film processer and print tech. No more sending stuff to a lab and waiting to get the results. There's a learning curve to this, too. You might need more computer storage, RAM, a better (graphics quality) display monitor, monitor/computer/print​er calibration, and will want to develop an efficient workflow. Canon provides some pretty good software with your camera to start with. Look for some books about the post-production process and start learning! I recommend The DAM Book - Digital Asset Management for Photographers (external link) as a good starting point setting up an efficient workflow. It's been revised a few times since I bought my copy, used to be pretty specific about softwares and methodology, although there are some equally good alternatives. But, the overall intent, princibles and recommendations are very good and valid, even if one adapts the ideas a bit for their own use.

You may want to hold off buying additional lenses for a while. For one thing, you probably already know that as an old film shooter with your first DSLR, you have some preconceived notions about focal lengths that are wrong now, considering the smaller sensor format and so-called 1.6X APS-C "crop factor". The 18-135mm you got with the camera is a pretty versatile lens covering moderately wide (29mm equiv. on your film cameras) to moderate telephoto (216mm equiv. on film). 250mm is a pretty powerful tele (400mm equiv. on film). 300mm,m 400mm and 500mm are super telephoto (480mm, 640mm and 800mm equiv. on film, respectively).

You don't need UV filters the way you might have with film... Digital cameras filter out UV all on their own, while some films were overly sensitive to it and often required filtration. A lot of people use UV filters today for "protection", but I think it's kind of silly to expect a thin piece of glass to provide much practical protection... So I generally use lens hoods instead. They offer more realistic protection and can't get in the way of good images the way some filters can.

The most useful filter today, IMO, is the Circular Polarizer. It's one filter that's nearly impossible to replicate well in post-production software. Most other filters are extraneous now. For example, set custom white balance now, instead of using color correcting filters.

Have fun with your new camera!


Alan Myers (external link) "Walk softly and carry a big lens."
5DII, 7DII(x2), 7D(x2) & other cameras. 10-22mm, Tokina 12-24/4, 20/2.8, TS 24/3.5L, 24-70/2.8L, 28/1.8, 28-135 IS (x2), TS 45/2.8, 50/1.4, Tamron 60/2.0, 70-200/4L IS, 70-200/2.8 IS, 85/1.8, Tamron 90/2.5 Macro, 100/2.8 USM, 100-400L II, 135/2L, 180/3.5L, 300/4L IS (x2), 300/2.8L IS, 500/4L IS, EF 1.4X II, EF 2X II. Flashes, studio strobes & various access. - FLICKR (external link) - ZENFOLIO (external link)

  
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bent ­ toe
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Feb 02, 2013 12:21 |  #17

John from PA wrote in post #15563940 (external link)
Unless you have some specific reason, don' waste money on a car charger. My 60d hss delivered about 500 images and only been at 40%. Most of that was landscape type stuff, no flash, minimaluse of sceen except to check an image. I would suggest you consider a spare battery. Likely a SterlingTek off amazon would go for $20.

Exactly. the 60D has the same battery as 7D and 5D... and belive me, you can easily get 2.000 shots out of a new battery..easily.
I carry around two.. rarely have to use my backup battery.


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treebound
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Feb 02, 2013 13:31 |  #18

(argh!!! sitting in a McDonalds playland with grandkids and just when I tried to post a reply the McD's wifi signon popped on and I lost everything I just thumbtyped in on the phone browser, argh)

Anyway, I'll probably package the 75-300 lens with one of the EOS film cameras and the short Sigma zoom and post it for sale locally, lots of students looking for film cameras for their photography classes.

A spare battery and modern flash are on the shopping list now. As is a monopod to augment my tripod.

We've got a grandkid's 7 year old b'day party to go to tomorrow which should give me plenty of opportunity to test out the battery life and popup flash.

I'll check out the tutorial and video links once I'm back home. We're currently on a hunt for hard to find Skylander characters for the party tomorrow.

Later today I want to head down to Lake Michigan and take a few shots of the harbor and lighthouse.

Lots of stuff to learn and figure out. Thanks all.

Mike


=====
60D w/18-135 kit lens, 55-250mm, EF 50mm 1.8, 580EXII flash.

  
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Ilovetheleafs
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Feb 02, 2013 18:36 |  #19

I'd grab a kata e-690 or kata e-702 if you have the chance and the money since you said you get caught in the rain.


Canon Rebel XS gripped, Canon 18 - 55mm, Sigma 18 - 200mm f3.5 - f6.3 DC OS HSM,Sigma 50mm f1.4 Olympus TG-810 Tough, LowePro Classified 160AW, Canon 430EX II Flash, Kata E-702

  
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treebound
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Feb 02, 2013 23:27 |  #20

I picked up a copy of the Michael Guncheon 60D book, the bookstore had three books on the 60D and this was the only one that told me which functions won't work in each mode. It was frustrating last night playing around with the camera and not knowing why the ISO button didn't do anything or why certain menu pages weren't available. Now I've got the copyright info filled out and will play with more stuff tomorrow. Never made it down to the lake tonight, 5degF is below the camera's (and mine at the moment) operating temp. ;)

That Kata gear looks interesting, and pricier than an old bread sack too. Still worth checking more into though.


=====
60D w/18-135 kit lens, 55-250mm, EF 50mm 1.8, 580EXII flash.

  
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Feb 03, 2013 09:06 |  #21

treebound wrote in post #15566302 (external link)
I picked up a copy of the Michael Guncheon 60D book, the bookstore had three books on the 60D and this was the only one that told me which functions won't work in each mode. It was frustrating last night playing around with the camera and not knowing why the ISO button didn't do anything or why certain menu pages weren't available. Now I've got the copyright info filled out and will play with more stuff tomorrow. Never made it down to the lake tonight, 5degF is below the camera's (and mine at the moment) operating temp. ;)

That Kata gear looks interesting, and pricier than an old bread sack too. Still worth checking more into though.

Shoot in "M" and you got no limitations at all.. :)


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RedSloth
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Feb 03, 2013 09:25 |  #22

Look at MagicLantern for time lapse and other nifty stuff.


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Feb 03, 2013 12:58 as a reply to  @ RedSloth's post |  #23

3. If you are looking into a truly wireless shutter release you can get this one http://www.amazon.com …te=1&ref_=aw_bo​ttom_links (external link) I have it and it works perfect with my 60D and can be used as a wired trigger if needed


Had a 6D....
Then had a daughter....
Now have an SL2 and Mavic Pro.... Man life changes.
I would encourage you... To just go for it.

  
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treebound
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Feb 04, 2013 08:57 |  #24

Time lapse is something I want to play around with.

I tried to shoot some video at the birthday party but everytime I hit the shutter button all it did was take a photo, oh oh I thought maybe the video function was not working, but I went back inside (grandkids were sledding in the snow outside) and looked in the manual and found that I need to hit a different button to start the video recording, all is well. :oops:

Before then I went down to the harbor and took some cold morning shots, zipper broke on my jacket, forgot the gloves at home, so all I got was a few pics with each lens just to see how they work, to see if they worked, and to get some starting comparisions to look at later. Just used the jpeg mode for now since I don't have any PP software loaded onto the computer yet.

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Probably some camera shake but at least everything seems to be working, took about 10 minutes for my fingers to warm back up though. I'm liking the 60D and now will spend some time reading the manual and the 60D book and watching some tutorials on-line. And my shopping list / want list is growing.

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Feb 04, 2013 09:20 |  #25

treebound wrote in post #15570517 (external link)
And my shopping list / want list is growing.

And don't expect it to stop anytime soon.. unless your a millionair.


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Feb 04, 2013 09:58 |  #26

A car charger is pretty much unnecessary, just get another battery. Without a flash I got 2200 shots during an airshow and still had 40% left. Not exaggerating. First one I was using the camera for and using a borrowed 100-400L, so I did a lot of spray and pray..since then I've gotten a lot better about not shooting as many :). If you really want the ability to charge in a car, your best bet is to get a power inverter that gives you a regular 110v outlet.

The 18-135 is a good lens, especially around f/8, the IS is very effective and it is nice that it does not have a rotating front element.

The 55-250, along with the 50mm 1.4, were my first two additional lenses and both have served me well. I got a 430 EX II for a flash, and that makes a huge difference in your options. I would suggest that more than a lens for a lot of indoor type use, and it can be used remotely if you want to use your 60D's wireless flash commander mode. The 18-135 is a very useful focal range for a wide variety of applications and when augmented with a flash it works very well as an indoor lens as well.


Cameras: 7D2, S100
Lenses: 17-55 f/2.8 IS USM, 18-135 STM, 24-70 f/4L IS USM, 50 f/1.4 USM,70-300L IS USM
Other Stuff: 430 EX II, Luma Labs Loop 3, CamRanger

  
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Feb 04, 2013 13:02 |  #27

Keyan wrote in post #15570711 (external link)
A car charger is pretty much unnecessary, just get another battery. Without a flash I got 2200 shots during an airshow and still had 40% left. Not exaggerating. First one I was using the camera for and using a borrowed 100-400L, so I did a lot of spray and pray..since then I've gotten a lot better about not shooting as many :). If you really want the ability to charge in a car, your best bet is to get a power inverter that gives you a regular 110v outlet.

The 18-135 is a good lens, especially around f/8, the IS is very effective and it is nice that it does not have a rotating front element.

The 55-250, along with the 50mm 1.4, were my first two additional lenses and both have served me well. I got a 430 EX II for a flash, and that makes a huge difference in your options. I would suggest that more than a lens for a lot of indoor type use, and it can be used remotely if you want to use your 60D's wireless flash commander mode. The 18-135 is a very useful focal range for a wide variety of applications and when augmented with a flash it works very well as an indoor lens as well.

What quality were you shooting. for those of us that shoot RAW somewhere around 1000 shots is generally all you can hope for.


Mark
Canon 7D2, 60D, T3i, T2i, Sigma 18-35 f/1.8, 30 f/1.4. Canon EF 70-200 L f/4 IS, EF 35 f/2 IS, EFs 10-18 STM, EFs 15-85, EFs 18-200, EF 50 f/1.8 STM, Tamron 18-270 PZD, B+W MRC CPL, Canon 320EX, Vanguard Alta Pro 254CT & SBH 250 head. RODE Stereo Videomic Pro, DXO PhotoLab Elite, ON1

  
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Feb 05, 2013 15:05 |  #28

Just used the jpeg mode for now since I don't have any PP software loaded onto the computer yet.


Your Canon Digital Photo Professional disc is a good start for processing.


Canon 60D, Gripped, a bunch of consumer glass, and a really cheap tripod.....
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Feb 06, 2013 09:58 |  #29

Yep, I plan to install the Canon software probably this weekend, then eventually go to Lightroom.

Question on the bulb setting: is there a way to lock open the shutter without a remote release? Probably a moot point since a release cable is on my short shopping list, but I was thinking that since the camera is electronic and since there is a mirror lockup that maybe there would be a shutter lock function as well ( click once for mirror lock, click to open shutter, then click again to close shutter and drop mirror instead of having to hold the shutter down).


=====
60D w/18-135 kit lens, 55-250mm, EF 50mm 1.8, 580EXII flash.

  
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Feb 06, 2013 10:24 |  #30

treebound wrote in post #15578959 (external link)
Yep, I plan to install the Canon software probably this weekend, then eventually go to Lightroom.

Question on the bulb setting: is there a way to lock open the shutter without a remote release? Probably a moot point since a release cable is on my short shopping list, but I was thinking that since the camera is electronic and since there is a mirror lockup that maybe there would be a shutter lock function as well ( click once for mirror lock, click to open shutter, then click again to close shutter and drop mirror instead of having to hold the shutter down).

I don't think there's any setting which will lock the shutter up in bulb mode, but what I've seen done is using a rubber band with a folded up piece of paper to hold it down. You'll get some shak at the start and stop, obviously, so it somwhat limits your subjects, but can work in a bind.




  
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