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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Discussion Astronomy & Celestial 
Thread started 12 Feb 2013 (Tuesday) 19:47
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Orion DSLR Camera Cooler

 
the ­ jimmy
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Feb 12, 2013 19:47 |  #1

Anyone have any experience with this? I didn't see anything about using different size lens, although the photo showing the back of the unit open with the camera inside seems to be a fair amount of room.

Improve your DSLR astrophotography results with this "cold box" for your camera
Chills your DSLR camera's imaging sensor to significantly reduce unwanted thermal noise, resulting in all-around better images
Insulated and thermoelectrically cooled chamber chills your camera up to -43°F from the ambient temperature
Requires no camera modification - use your DSLR to take pictures of the family during the day, and of the cosmos at night!

Website (external link)




  
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archer1960
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Feb 13, 2013 19:36 |  #2

I don't know about this specific one, but many astrophotographers swear by cooling boxes for their DSLRs, especially in the summer.


Gripped 7D, gripped, full-spectrum modfied T1i (500D), SX50HS, A2E film body, Tamzooka (150-600), Tamron 90mm/2.8 VC (ver 2), Tamron 18-270 VC, Canon FD 100 f/4.0 macro, Canon 24-105 f/4L,Canon EF 200 f/2.8LII, Canon 85 f/1.8, Tamron Adaptall 2 90mmf/2.5 Macro, Tokina 11-16, Canon EX-430 flash, Vivitar DF-383 flash, Astro-Tech AT6RC and Celestron NexStar 102 GT telescopes, various other semi-crappy manual lenses and stuff.

  
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the ­ jimmy
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Feb 13, 2013 20:03 |  #3

archer1960 wrote in post #15607551 (external link)
I don't know about this specific one, but many astrophotographers swear by cooling boxes for their DSLRs, especially in the summer.

This is the first I have ever seen such a thing, they state that it will cool the camera about 35° cooler then ambient temperature. Given current software available to reduce noise in post, I wonder how helpful this would be. I have never read any posts on this fourm about such a product, so I was surprised to find this.




  
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archer1960
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Feb 14, 2013 06:13 |  #4

the jimmy wrote in post #15607617 (external link)
This is the first I have ever seen such a thing, they state that it will cool the camera about 35° cooler then ambient temperature. Given current software available to reduce noise in post, I wonder how helpful this would be. I have never read any posts on this fourm about such a product, so I was surprised to find this.

Very helpful, IMO. When you're shooting a dense star field like the Milky Way, a lot of the stars look like noise to noise-reduction software. I don't have a cooler box, but I get MUCH better shots in the winter than in the summer no matter what I do with NR.

Go to a dedicated astronomy forum like CloudyNights.com, and you'll see plenty of discussion of cooling your camera.


Gripped 7D, gripped, full-spectrum modfied T1i (500D), SX50HS, A2E film body, Tamzooka (150-600), Tamron 90mm/2.8 VC (ver 2), Tamron 18-270 VC, Canon FD 100 f/4.0 macro, Canon 24-105 f/4L,Canon EF 200 f/2.8LII, Canon 85 f/1.8, Tamron Adaptall 2 90mmf/2.5 Macro, Tokina 11-16, Canon EX-430 flash, Vivitar DF-383 flash, Astro-Tech AT6RC and Celestron NexStar 102 GT telescopes, various other semi-crappy manual lenses and stuff.

  
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ohata0
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Feb 14, 2013 06:50 |  #5

interesting.

i've heard about this type of thing on cloudynights, but they were called peltier boxes and as the description stated, many, if not all, required modifications to the camera.

this sounds like a cool idea (no pun intended), but unfortunately, it's small and only works with rebel cameras. would be nice to have one that works with the 60Da, or full frame cameras (6D, 5dmkIII).




  
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StillCrazy
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Feb 14, 2013 07:08 |  #6

archer1960 wrote in post #15608843 (external link)
I don't have a cooler box, but I get MUCH better shots in the winter than in the summer no matter what I do with NR.

I wonder if the reason for this is because the atmosphere is clearer in winter than in summer? The air is generally dryer in winter, and less moisture would mean clearer skies and better pictures.

No need for a cooler in winter unless you're in tropical areas, but may make some difference in summer.


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archer1960
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Feb 14, 2013 07:47 |  #7

StillCrazy wrote in post #15608934 (external link)
I wonder if the reason for this is because the atmosphere is clearer in winter than in summer? The air is generally dryer in winter, and less moisture would mean clearer skies and better pictures.

No need for a cooler in winter unless you're in tropical areas, but may make some difference in summer.

I was referring specifically to the noise in my shots. The seeing is usually better in the summer around here, while the transparency is better in the winter, so those parts seem to cancel out most of the time.


Gripped 7D, gripped, full-spectrum modfied T1i (500D), SX50HS, A2E film body, Tamzooka (150-600), Tamron 90mm/2.8 VC (ver 2), Tamron 18-270 VC, Canon FD 100 f/4.0 macro, Canon 24-105 f/4L,Canon EF 200 f/2.8LII, Canon 85 f/1.8, Tamron Adaptall 2 90mmf/2.5 Macro, Tokina 11-16, Canon EX-430 flash, Vivitar DF-383 flash, Astro-Tech AT6RC and Celestron NexStar 102 GT telescopes, various other semi-crappy manual lenses and stuff.

  
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the ­ jimmy
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Feb 14, 2013 16:53 |  #8

archer1960 wrote in post #15608997 (external link)
The seeing is usually better in the summer around here

What do you mean by this? Do you mean what objects are in the sky (during the summer) to see and photograph?




  
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Feb 14, 2013 18:14 |  #9

the jimmy wrote in post #15610716 (external link)
What do you mean by this? Do you mean what objects are in the sky (during the summer) to see and photograph?

For astronomers and astropohtographers, "seeing" refers to how stable the earth's atmosphere is. When seeing is good, the atmosphere is calm, which means the stars don't twinkle and the planets look clear. When the seeing is bad, the turbulence makes it difficult to see any detail, and the more magnification you use, the worse things look. On really bad nights, it looks like you're looking at things through a pan of boiling water, and you might as well forget about seeing things like details on the surface of Mars, or Jupiter's red spot.

Hope this helps!


Gripped 7D, gripped, full-spectrum modfied T1i (500D), SX50HS, A2E film body, Tamzooka (150-600), Tamron 90mm/2.8 VC (ver 2), Tamron 18-270 VC, Canon FD 100 f/4.0 macro, Canon 24-105 f/4L,Canon EF 200 f/2.8LII, Canon 85 f/1.8, Tamron Adaptall 2 90mmf/2.5 Macro, Tokina 11-16, Canon EX-430 flash, Vivitar DF-383 flash, Astro-Tech AT6RC and Celestron NexStar 102 GT telescopes, various other semi-crappy manual lenses and stuff.

  
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the ­ jimmy
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Feb 14, 2013 19:11 |  #10

archer1960 wrote in post #15610965 (external link)
For astronomers and astropohtographers, "seeing" refers to how stable the earth's atmosphere is. When seeing is good, the atmosphere is calm, which means the stars don't twinkle and the planets look clear. When the seeing is bad, the turbulence makes it difficult to see any detail, and the more magnification you use, the worse things look. On really bad nights, it looks like you're looking at things through a pan of boiling water, and you might as well forget about seeing things like details on the surface of Mars, or Jupiter's red spot.

Hope this helps!

Yes I knew that, I guess I was unsure of your statement because you refered to the summer as being better viewing. I don't know where you're located, cetainly here in Fl the winter is the better "seeing" season.




  
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archer1960
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Feb 14, 2013 19:21 |  #11

the jimmy wrote in post #15611117 (external link)
Yes I knew that, I guess I was unsure of your statement because you refered to the summer as being better viewing. I don't know where you're located, cetainly here in Fl the winter is the better "seeing" season.

Yes, I know it varies from place to place as to when the seeing is better. Around here (southern New England), the winter typically has a lot of turbulence and wind from the big temperature differences between the ocean and the land. The summer, especially late summer once temperatures start coming down a bit, tends to be calmer. Of course we can get good days and bad days in any season, but those are the general tendencies around here.


Gripped 7D, gripped, full-spectrum modfied T1i (500D), SX50HS, A2E film body, Tamzooka (150-600), Tamron 90mm/2.8 VC (ver 2), Tamron 18-270 VC, Canon FD 100 f/4.0 macro, Canon 24-105 f/4L,Canon EF 200 f/2.8LII, Canon 85 f/1.8, Tamron Adaptall 2 90mmf/2.5 Macro, Tokina 11-16, Canon EX-430 flash, Vivitar DF-383 flash, Astro-Tech AT6RC and Celestron NexStar 102 GT telescopes, various other semi-crappy manual lenses and stuff.

  
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Feb 16, 2013 01:40 as a reply to  @ archer1960's post |  #12

only downside is that it is heavy and causes flexure and it is a little overpriced for what it does. However, under ideal conditions I would like to try one out


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archer1960
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Feb 16, 2013 10:07 |  #13

calypsob wrote in post #15615434 (external link)
only downside is that it is heavy and causes flexure and it is a little overpriced for what it does. However, under ideal conditions I would like to try one out

Yep, I agree with all those points. I believe Orion's is a rebranded version of somebody else's cooler box, which can be found somewhat cheaper elsewhere.


Gripped 7D, gripped, full-spectrum modfied T1i (500D), SX50HS, A2E film body, Tamzooka (150-600), Tamron 90mm/2.8 VC (ver 2), Tamron 18-270 VC, Canon FD 100 f/4.0 macro, Canon 24-105 f/4L,Canon EF 200 f/2.8LII, Canon 85 f/1.8, Tamron Adaptall 2 90mmf/2.5 Macro, Tokina 11-16, Canon EX-430 flash, Vivitar DF-383 flash, Astro-Tech AT6RC and Celestron NexStar 102 GT telescopes, various other semi-crappy manual lenses and stuff.

  
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