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Thread started 13 Feb 2013 (Wednesday) 12:22
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did/do you use FoCal software to calibrate your lenses?

 
mantra
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Feb 13, 2013 12:22 |  #1

Hi

i'm just reading focal Fully Automated Camera Calibration

http://www.reikan.co.u​k/focalweb/ (external link)

it's in english and i 'm tring to translate it

should i take shots of the monitor?

does it work?

do you use it?

thanks!


canon 5d markII,24L & 24ts , 35L ,17-40L,24-70L,70-200 2.8ISL,50 1.4,85 1.4 , canon eos 3 ,eos 5 ,t90 , ae program and some very sweet fd lenses
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Domino1999
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Feb 13, 2013 14:06 |  #2

Have you read this thread?
https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1272615


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Trvlr323
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Feb 13, 2013 14:59 as a reply to  @ Domino1999's post |  #3

I've used the software. I found that it works...and it doesn't. I'll offer my expereince with all due respect to those who swear by it.

I used the software and like most I found that my focus was improved hence my initial reaction wasn't unlike many people who rave about the software. I thought it was great, wondered how I got along without it and was even a little upset that Canon didn't provide this performance out of the box. Yes, the software appeared to give better post-calibration results when verified in the sterile conditions in which the calibration was performed but over time I found that it was six of one and half a dozen of the other. AF systems perform differently depending on a lot of factors. Lighting, focal distance and on and on. I found that using my lenses micro-adjusted or not provided the same amount of keepers, non-keepers, super sharp focused and softer images taken over a period of time. My assumption is that micro-adjusting vs. non-micro adjusting provides equal performance but the peak performance becomes apparent under different conditions. So since then my approach has been if my results aren't going to be improved why bother with the expense and time?


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marcosv
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Feb 13, 2013 16:25 |  #4

As I've mentioned in the other thread, I also wasn't that impressed with the software due to repeatability issues and lack of feedback on whether my lens was front or rear focusing. The software could give me the impression that it nailed the adjustment, but, when I test the adjustment, I'm not that happy with it.

In the end, I prefer using Lens Align, despite the cost and the flimsy material that makes me hesitant from taking it apart for travel.

But, you should try FoCal for yourself first. If it works for you, it's really portable.


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hollis_f
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Feb 14, 2013 05:14 |  #5

mantra wrote in post #15606018 (external link)
should i take shots of the monitor?

No. You need to print the target that Reikan include. Print it on A4 paper, with an inkjet if you can, but a laser printer will also work.

mantra wrote in post #15606018 (external link)
does it work?

Yes. You do need a lot of light. And the light must be consistent - it must not vary a lot. But then it works very well indeed.

mantra wrote in post #15606018 (external link)
do you use it?

Oh yes! I have used it for about 20 lenses on my two cameras and another 6 lenses on a friend's camera.

Before FoCal I only did 4 lenses on one camera because it took too much time. But FoCal is so quick and easy that it was OK to do all my lenses.

mantra wrote in post #15606018 (external link)
thanks!

You are most welcome.


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bobbyz
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Feb 14, 2013 08:49 |  #6

Used it couple of times with my 5dmk3 and 35L, 135L, and 85mmf 1.8. So many times it will tell me target not found when doing the adjustment when target was successfully acquired and nothing moved. Test done on a nice tripod in a empty parking lot so no wood floor issues IMHO. Overall it was better than doing anything manual and tests seemed repeatable if done in good light.

Wish it had auto support for 5dmk3 but that is more a canon issue of changing the api.


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05Xrunner
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Feb 14, 2013 09:30 |  #7

bobbyz wrote in post #15609122 (external link)
Used it couple of times with my 5dmk3 and 35L, 135L, and 85mmf 1.8. So many times it will tell me target not found when doing the adjustment when target was successfully acquired and nothing moved. Test done on a nice tripod in a empty parking lot so no wood floor issues IMHO. Overall it was better than doing anything manual and tests seemed repeatable if done in good light.

Wish it had auto support for 5dmk3 but that is more a canon issue of changing the api.

Same exact problem I had. Everything was setup and image validation. Half way through says cannot find target. Reiken tried to blame me for the issue. But they are refunding me


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John_N
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Feb 14, 2013 13:38 |  #8

bobbyz wrote in post #15609122 (external link)
Used it couple of times with my 5dmk3 and 35L, 135L, and 85mmf 1.8. So many times it will tell me target not found when doing the adjustment when target was successfully acquired and nothing moved. Test done on a nice tripod in a empty parking lot so no wood floor issues IMHO. Overall it was better than doing anything manual and tests seemed repeatable if done in good light.

Wish it had auto support for 5dmk3 but that is more a canon issue of changing the api.

I didn't get along with it at all sadly - the two cameras I tried it on were the 1DIII and 5DIII - neither are fully compatible and neither worked well for me.



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mantra
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Feb 16, 2013 00:34 as a reply to  @ John_N's post |  #9

i swear
i did perform a search focal* but i did not find it
thanks

nqjudo wrote in post #15606556 (external link)
I've used the software. I found that it works...and it doesn't. I'll offer my expereince with all due respect to those who swear by it.

I used the software and like most I found that my focus was improved hence my initial reaction wasn't unlike many people who rave about the software. I thought it was great, wondered how I got along without it and was even a little upset that Canon didn't provide this performance out of the box. Yes, the software appeared to give better post-calibration results when verified in the sterile conditions in which the calibration was performed but over time I found that it was six of one and half a dozen of the other. AF systems perform differently depending on a lot of factors. Lighting, focal distance and on and on. I found that using my lenses micro-adjusted or not provided the same amount of keepers, non-keepers, super sharp focused and softer images taken over a period of time. My assumption is that micro-adjusting vs. non-micro adjusting provides equal performance but the peak performance becomes apparent under different conditions. So since then my approach has been if my results aren't going to be improved why bother with the expense and time?

thanks for the feedbacks!

marcosv wrote in post #15606890 (external link)
As I've mentioned in the other thread, I also wasn't that impressed with the software due to repeatability issues and lack of feedback on whether my lens was front or rear focusing. The software could give me the impression that it nailed the adjustment, but, when I test the adjustment, I'm not that happy with it.

In the end, I prefer using Lens Align, despite the cost and the flimsy material that makes me hesitant from taking it apart for travel.

But, you should try FoCal for yourself first. If it works for you, it's really portable.

thank to you tooo


canon 5d markII,24L & 24ts , 35L ,17-40L,24-70L,70-200 2.8ISL,50 1.4,85 1.4 , canon eos 3 ,eos 5 ,t90 , ae program and some very sweet fd lenses
3 analogic Hasselblad and 2 anologic Mamiya

  
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mantra
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Feb 16, 2013 00:40 |  #10

hollis_f wrote in post #15608773 (external link)
Before FoCal I only did 4 lenses on one camera because it took too much time. But FoCal is so quick and easy that it was OK to do all my lenses.

You are most welcome.

thanks a lot! really
so i have to shoot with a great ammount of light a paper (chart) , cf - PC and load the images in the program and it should analyze them ?


but how can the program know if the camera is perfectly perpendicular to the chart and if the distance from the chart is 100% right

thanks Hollis again!


canon 5d markII,24L & 24ts , 35L ,17-40L,24-70L,70-200 2.8ISL,50 1.4,85 1.4 , canon eos 3 ,eos 5 ,t90 , ae program and some very sweet fd lenses
3 analogic Hasselblad and 2 anologic Mamiya

  
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Canon ­ Bob
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Feb 16, 2013 02:39 |  #11

mantra wrote in post #15615356 (external link)
......so i have to shoot with a great ammount of light a paper (chart) , cf - PC and load the images in the program and it should analyze them ?

No, you connect the camera to your PC via the USB cable and the software takes the shots, performs the analysis and modifies the MA value to the best figure and then generates a report for you.

Bob


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kouasupra
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Feb 16, 2013 02:44 |  #12

I used it. Got great result. I would recommend it.




  
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mantra
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Feb 18, 2013 01:25 |  #13

Canon Bob wrote in post #15615499 (external link)
No, you connect the camera to your PC via the USB cable and the software takes the shots, performs the analysis and modifies the MA value to the best figure and then generates a report for you.

Bob

kouasupra wrote in post #15615503 (external link)
I used it. Got great result. I would recommend it.

thanks

how can i know if the camera is 100% perpendicular to the chart ?
i guess it's important

and for the distance from the chart and the camera?

how do you do it?

thanks!


canon 5d markII,24L & 24ts , 35L ,17-40L,24-70L,70-200 2.8ISL,50 1.4,85 1.4 , canon eos 3 ,eos 5 ,t90 , ae program and some very sweet fd lenses
3 analogic Hasselblad and 2 anologic Mamiya

  
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hollis_f
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Feb 18, 2013 02:32 |  #14

mantra wrote in post #15622403 (external link)
how can i know if the camera is 100% perpendicular to the chart ?
i guess it's important

It's not important. As long as it's near perpendicular it'll be OK. I just eyeball it.

mantra wrote in post #15622403 (external link)
and for the distance from the chart and the camera?

how do you do it?

Again, I estimate somewhere between 20 and 50x the focal length. So, for a 100mm lens I put the target somewhere about 2 to 5m away.


Frank Hollis - Retired mass spectroscopist
Give a man a fish and he'll eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he'll complain about the withdrawal of his free fish entitlement.
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mantra
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Feb 18, 2013 04:42 |  #15

hollis_f wrote in post #15622471 (external link)
It's not important. As long as it's near perpendicular it'll be OK. I just eyeball it.
Again, I estimate somewhere between 20 and 50x the focal length. So, for a 100mm lens I put the target somewhere about 2 to 5m away.


very kind Hollis !
thank you so much


canon 5d markII,24L & 24ts , 35L ,17-40L,24-70L,70-200 2.8ISL,50 1.4,85 1.4 , canon eos 3 ,eos 5 ,t90 , ae program and some very sweet fd lenses
3 analogic Hasselblad and 2 anologic Mamiya

  
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