Feb 25, 2013 11:00 | #16 HyperYagami wrote in post #15649906  try http://dispcalgui.hoech.net/ . I found it way better when the stock software gave me a weird red cast.Thanks HyperYagami, I shall give that a whirl. Snowy's Gear
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Feb 27, 2013 07:50 | #17 Well... I just calibrated two monitors to the same Gamma and White Point but when I compare them they are not the same. Why is that? Datacolor says: Visual observation of two monitors sitting side-by-side will never appear to match. Even if they are the same type, make and model, two displays will have subtle differences that are readily discerned in side-by-side comparison, but become negligible when each display is viewed separately. Comparing a CRT monitor to an LCD monitor will be even less rewarding because of the inherent differences in display technology. In a side-by-side comparison between a CRT and an LCD, the LCD will always be perceived as 'brighter' and having 'higher contrast'. This is because the peak luminance of an LCD is typically about twice that of a CRT, even when you calibrate both monitors to have the same Gamma and White Point. To compound the effect, the organic eye-brain colorimeter (aka human color perception) causes one kind of difference to be perceived as if it were another kind of difference. Even if two samples have the same color but different luminance, they will be perceived as also different in color. Thus, when you calibrate a CRT and an LCD to the same Gamma and White Point and place the monitors next to each other, the fact that the LCD is twice as bright will cause them to appear different in color even if an instrument records identical chromaticities. The human visual system has another powerful feature, referred to as 'adaptation'. For example, if you move from a room with incandescent lighting to one that is lit with fluorescent tubes, you will initially perceive white objects as having a bluish cast, and possibly brighter than they were. However, after a few minutes, your visual system 'adapts' to the new environment and your 'adapted' perception is that white objects are merely white. Visual adaptation allows us to use two different technologies, like CRT and LCD, to view the same image file with similar perception. However, if you place two different monitors side-by-side and view them simultaneously, the visual system cannot adapt to both simultaneously. They will always appear different (in color, luminance and contrast) due to that very sensitive 'comparison' function of human visual perception. Therefore, a side-by-side comparison of two monitors is not a reasonable metric for determining whether you can use each monitor individually and achieve similar results. A better test would be to put each monitor in a separate room, displaying the same image file (using the same software). Then view the image on monitor 1, allowing time for visual adaptation. Next, move to monitor 2, again allowing time for visual adaptation. In such a test it is important to confirm that the image file being viewed has an embedded ICC profile that accurately defines its color space. Also that Photoshop's Color Settings are set such that the embedded color profile is used, and that each monitor is correctly calibrated, profiled and its profile is set as the current monitor profile. http://support.datacolor.com …-not-the-same-why-is-that Snowy's Gear
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OneJZsupra Goldmember  2,378 posts Joined Aug 2009 Location: Guam More info | Feb 27, 2013 12:32 | #18 HyperYagami wrote in post #15649906 try http://dispcalgui.hoech.net/ . I found it way better when the stock software gave me a weird red cast.Does anyone have anything to say about this? I'm wondering how well it works. Gear List | Feed Back | My Site
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caoko Senior Member 260 posts Joined Aug 2012 More info | Feb 27, 2013 12:55 | #19 dispcalgui works great. I use it on a spyder4express for multiple monitors.
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OneJZsupra Goldmember 2,378 posts Joined Aug 2009 Location: Guam More info | Feb 27, 2013 13:12 | #20 caoko wrote in post #15658154 dispcalgui works great. I use it on a spyder4express for multiple monitors. make sure you read the guide and know what each setting is/does. best part is that it makes the spyder4 usable incase you lose the stupid serial number for the bundled software. Well being that I have the 4pro which of the two softwares would be better? My only issue is my prints come out a bit bland. Gear List | Feed Back | My Site
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caoko Senior Member 260 posts Joined Aug 2012 More info | Feb 28, 2013 08:46 | #21 seoul4korea wrote in post #15658228 Well being that I have the 4pro which of the two softwares would be better? My only issue is my prints come out a bit bland. I calibrated, use the correct ICC profiles for my red river paper but they are still a bit off. What gives? the pro software is probably easier to use, but the end result should be very very close ( provided the same settings were used)
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OneJZsupra Goldmember 2,378 posts Joined Aug 2009 Location: Guam More info | Feb 28, 2013 19:58 | #22 caoko wrote in post #15660911 the pro software is probably easier to use, but the end result should be very very close ( provided the same settings were used) it'll always be off compared to a print. the thing is, how far off? if you want it to be close or exact then you have to use something like the colormunki, where it looks at the prints too. for myself, I just use it to get multiple monitors reasonably close, and consistant. Hmmm maybe I can adjust the color settings and reduce them a bit. Gear List | Feed Back | My Site
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bps Cream of the Crop 7,607 posts Likes: 406 Joined Mar 2007 Location: California More info | Feb 28, 2013 23:15 | #23 Great discussion going on here! I like learning more about folks' experience with calibrating their monitors.
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caoko Senior Member 260 posts Joined Aug 2012 More info | Mar 01, 2013 15:30 | #24 bps wrote in post #15663566 Great discussion going on here! I like learning more about folks' experience with calibrating their monitors. Bryan head over to the "RAW, Post Processing and Printing " forum, if you really want an eye opener.
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bps Cream of the Crop 7,607 posts Likes: 406 Joined Mar 2007 Location: California More info | Mar 01, 2013 16:18 | #25 caoko wrote in post #15665823 head over to the "RAW, Post Processing and Printing " forum, if you really want an eye opener. Admittedly, I haven't spent anytime in that forum. Thanks for pointing me that way!
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Oct 28, 2013 14:44 | #26 Can anyone tell me if Spyder4Express would work for me? I have a Macbook Pro (late 2009 version) and am going to order a new monitor: http://www.amazon.com …psc=1&smid=A28S4N50E4LJV9 Fuji X-T1 | Fuji 18-55 f/2.8-4 | Fuji 35 f/1.4
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Nick5 Goldmember  More info | Oct 30, 2013 08:25 | #27 Deron. Canon 5D Mark III (x2), BG-E11 Grips, Canon Lenses 16-35 f/4 L IS, 17-40 f/4 L, 24-70 f/4 L IS, 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II, 70-200 f/4 L IS, 70-200 f/4 L IS Version II, 100-400 f/4.5-5.6 L IS Version II, TS-E 24 f/3.5 L II, 100 f/2.8 L Macro IS, 10-22 f3.5-4.5, 17-55 f/2.8 L IS, 85 f/1.8, Canon 1.4 Extender III, 5 Canon 600 EX-RT, 2 Canon ST-E3 Transmitters, Canon PRO-300 Printer
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Oct 30, 2013 09:30 | #28 Nick5 wrote in post #16410539 Deron. I would, and did buy the Spyder 4 Pro. Not only does it allow me to do multiple monitors, it is upgradable to the Elite if I should ever decide to. For the difference in price it was a no brainier. Thank you! I figured that's what I should do. Fuji X-T1 | Fuji 18-55 f/2.8-4 | Fuji 35 f/1.4
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OneJZsupra Goldmember 2,378 posts Joined Aug 2009 Location: Guam More info | Oct 30, 2013 17:45 | #29 It has to do with home printing, I think mpix has a correction feature that ensures it comes out right. For home printing you need to calibrate, set photoshop or what ever to manage color, and use the correct ICC profiles for the paper you are using. Gear List | Feed Back | My Site
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Oct 30, 2013 18:22 | #30 seoul4korea wrote in post #16411822 It has to do with home printing, I think mpix has a correction feature that ensures it comes out right. For home printing you need to calibrate, set photoshop or what ever to manage color, and use the correct ICC profiles for the paper you are using. This should allow for accurate printing, what you see on your monitor should be very close to what you see coming out of the monitor Ok thank you. Sorry for my ignorance on this but if I don't have any desire to do home printing, is it really necessary to calibrate my monitor? Fuji X-T1 | Fuji 18-55 f/2.8-4 | Fuji 35 f/1.4
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