Bazza's Iron-Man suit build

Nearly ready to paint the back. Hopefully tomorrow afternoon/night.

It's amazing how much bogging and sanding you can do thinking it's super-smooth. Then you hit it with a shiny paint and all the lumps and bumps show up.

There comes a point where you say, "Stuff it, there's only so much time taken from my family I can justify, and I've already pushed it too far." Next goes the red.

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I would think adding a darker color could help, in some situations, to hide those slight imperfections. Also, as Iron Man battled various nemeses, he most likely had much larger imperfections!

TeamSpeed wrote in post #17994363
I would think adding a darker color could help, in some situations, to hide those slight imperfections. Also, as Iron Man battled various nemeses, he most likely had much larger imperfections!

A totally pristine IM suit, without some bumps and bruises is sort of like a shiny, chromed out 4x4...no one believes it I think you're all good with a little "battle damage" in there, Baz

It feels like we are in the home stretch, can't WAIT to see the final product and first run!

Snydremark wrote in post #17994481
A totally pristine IM suit, without some bumps and bruises is sort of like a shiny, chromed out 4x4...no one believes it I think you're all good with a little "battle damage" in there, Baz

Good point!

I think you need to add a fog machine and bright background lights to the suit. You always want to give off the Iron-man aurora wherever you are.

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Alright.

I asked the question on several forums and on Facebook. The one that made the most sense came from a friend who said that 24 hours drying on my Duplicolor red was not enough. I need more like four or five days.

Based on RYNO666's, (405th) link to the Rustoleum option he provide me yesterday, I made contact with an Australian distributor in Victoria and spoke with one of their paint technicians.

He has basically confirmed what my friend has said.

The Duplicolor is a enamel paint, and apparently the solvents in enamels take a very long time to disperse, unlike acrylics or 2-packs.

His advice is to try again, give it four or five days to cure - the longer the better. Then when applying the clear coat over the top, give a very light spray first, wait for it to go off, then apply two normal coats with 15 to 20 minutes between coats.

very nice!

(I still find the concept of tools hung nicely in their place outlined & named very disturbing! )

joeseph wrote in post #17995272
very nice!

(I still find the concept of tools hung nicely in their place outlined & named very disturbing! )

Having them hung up against an outline is great for me so I know where to go to get anything at a moment's notice and it will be there.

Having them named is for the benefit of whoever I send in there to get something for me.

That sounds correct, and when cars are painted, often they are run through a heating cycle in the paint booth to accelerate the curing process, usually with IR light. Temps aren't that hot though to decrease the curing times. If you run IR bulbs over your painted materials to raise their temps a bit (not too hot), you might be able to shrink days to hours.

Could you cure in an oven at low heat for a couple hours?

TeamSpeed wrote in post #17995569
That sounds correct, and when cars are painted, often they are run through a heating cycle in the paint booth to accelerate the curing process, usually with IR light. Temps aren't that hot though to decrease the curing times. If you run IR bulbs over your painted materials to raise their temps a bit (not too hot), you might be able to shrink days to hours.

Chet wrote in post #17995576
Could you cure in an oven at low heat for a couple hours?

I've got time. I still have bog work to do on the midriff, legs and feet, so what I have painted so far can wait a few days.

Back armour painted.