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Thread started 05 Mar 2013 (Tuesday) 21:58
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Camera/Lens Calibration needed? Or do I just need to get better?

 
CJ230K
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Mar 05, 2013 21:58 |  #1

Editing this to hopefully get some response (92 views and no response). I bought the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 and it's not as sharp as I thought it would be unless I use live view to focus, then it's great! After reviewing my real world shots, I tested it using the below focus test, and to me, it appears to be focusing better to the right, but not as well to the left, and somewhat front focusing.
http://www.flickr.com …/55498312@N05/8​529420011/ (external link)

Has anyone else had issues with their Sigma 30mm being soft unless they use live view? Should I just send this in to Sigma to get it calibrated to my camera? Any info on how that process works would be much appreciated.

Thanks!


T3i gripped - 18-55 Kit Lens - Nifty Fifty - Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 - Sigma 30mm f/1.4 - Tamron 70-300 f/4.0-5.6 SP Di VC USD XLD - Canon 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM - Neewer TT560 - YongNuo YN-468 II

  
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CJ230K
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Mar 06, 2013 17:20 |  #2

Can anyone offer some help here? I posted this on another site and got one response as well, basically saying "that lens sucks, send it back and get something different like the Sigma 35mm". Just looking for some info from people who've had this lens calibrated to see if it fixed the focus issues.

Thanks!


T3i gripped - 18-55 Kit Lens - Nifty Fifty - Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 - Sigma 30mm f/1.4 - Tamron 70-300 f/4.0-5.6 SP Di VC USD XLD - Canon 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM - Neewer TT560 - YongNuo YN-468 II

  
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Nightdiver13
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Mar 06, 2013 17:30 |  #3

It looks fine to me. The samples you previously had posted looked fine too. A few looked like maybe they were slightly front focused, but the diagonal paper test isn't the best way to determine that. A target parallel with the sensor and then something diagonal next to it would be better. I'd say to forget the test charts and go shoot real stuff. If you feel like you're seeing issues in your shots, go back to the testing to see if it's a product of the lens or something you're doing.

edit: Missed where you said you had already been doing real world shots. So you feel those shots were out of focus, which is why you started testing the lens? How about a sample shot where it didn't hit focus properly.


Neil

  
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little ­ johny
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Mar 06, 2013 18:58 |  #4

There are three ways to skin the cat this time.
1) Get a refund and buy something else.
2) Exchange for another copy and hopefully you get a good one.
3) send it in with your camera to get it checked out / recalibrated.

Doses Sigma 30mm 1.4 sucks ? Yes !!! big time. I am on my third copy and still working on it. Their service department in Toronto has been great though. They are the only people who keep me buying Sigma. I would not buy another Sigma lens if I am not living in Toronto.




  
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mrbtd
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Mar 06, 2013 18:59 |  #5

That is pretty sharp. Can hardly tell if it is back or front focusing because of the way things are lined up. Just take it out and use it.




  
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CJ230K
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Mar 06, 2013 21:44 |  #6

Nightdiver13 wrote in post #15684995 (external link)
So you feel those shots were out of focus, which is why you started testing the lens? How about a sample shot where it didn't hit focus properly.

Here are a couple samples, one where focus was good, and one not so good. I'm beginning to wonder if it's just the fact that the ISO is cranked so high, causing them to look less sharp.

Live View focus
http://www.flickr.com …/55498312@N05/8​534967607/ (external link)

Viewfinder focus
http://www.flickr.com …/55498312@N05/8​536075388/ (external link)


T3i gripped - 18-55 Kit Lens - Nifty Fifty - Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 - Sigma 30mm f/1.4 - Tamron 70-300 f/4.0-5.6 SP Di VC USD XLD - Canon 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM - Neewer TT560 - YongNuo YN-468 II

  
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Snydremark
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Mar 06, 2013 21:55 |  #7

High ISOs will definitely impact the sharpness. As another poter mentioned, shooting at an angled target to determine front/back focus is a recipe for madness. The canera can use any area uner the AF point (or slightly outside of it to actually focus on; so angling the target gives more tha a single plane for focus to 'hit' on. If you're going to use a test target I suggest something like the LensCal or similar targets.


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (R5, RF 800 f/11, Canon 16-35 F/4 MkII, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
"The easiest way to improve your photos is to adjust the loose nut between the shutter release and the ground."

  
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xanctum
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Mar 06, 2013 22:07 |  #8

I had the same problem with my Sigma. I thought my shots were out of focus until I go better with my technique using that lens. At 1.4 unless you really know what you are doing it is very difficult to have a high keeper rate. I got maybe 3-4/10 after a couple of months using it.. from there it only goes up :)


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mwsilver
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Mar 06, 2013 22:19 |  #9

CJ230K wrote in post #15681874 (external link)
Editing this to hopefully get some response (92 views and no response). I bought the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 and it's not as sharp as I thought it would be unless I use live view to focus, then it's great! After reviewing my real world shots, I tested it using the below focus test, and to me, it appears to be focusing better to the right, but not as well to the left, and somewhat front focusing.
http://www.flickr.com …/55498312@N05/8​529420011/ (external link)

Has anyone else had issues with their Sigma 30mm being soft unless they use live view? Should I just send this in to Sigma to get it calibrated to my camera? Any info on how that process works would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

It looks similar to my first copy of this lens from B&H. It was decentered to the right. The attached link is from Lens Rental. Read the instructions for use. If you right click on the test pattern and do a Save As, you can download it to your computer and enlarge it as needed. Once you focus on the center then defocus it a bit manually and take a picture, its easy to tell. if the doughnut and hole both remain completely concentric even after blurring, your ok. Try it at f/1.4. if not a trip to Sigma would be in order.

http://www.lensrentals​.com …technique-gets-a-makeover (external link)


Mark
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mwsilver
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Mar 06, 2013 22:22 |  #10

xanctum wrote in post #15685908 (external link)
I had the same problem with my Sigma. I thought my shots were out of focus until I go better with my technique using that lens. At 1.4 unless you really know what you are doing it is very difficult to have a high keeper rate. I got maybe 3-4/10 after a couple of months using it.. from there it only goes up :)


I agree completely, but it is possible he has a decentered copy. My first one was. Additionally, auto focus on small subjects in low light may be a mixed bag. Sometimes it will be spot on even at 100%, sometimes its a bit off.


Mark
Nikon Z fc, Nikkor Z 16-50mm, Nikkor Z 40mm f/2, Nikkor Z 28mm f/2.8 (SE), Nikkor Z DX 18-140mm, Voigtlander 35mm f/1.2, Voigtlander 23mm f/1.2, DXO PhotoLab 5 Elite, DXO FilmPack 6 Elite, DXO ViewPoint 3

  
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philwillmedia
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Mar 06, 2013 22:36 |  #11

CJ230K wrote in post #15685842 (external link)
Here are a couple samples, one where focus was good, and one not so good. I'm beginning to wonder if it's just the fact that the ISO is cranked so high, causing them to look less sharp.

Live View focus
http://www.flickr.com …/55498312@N05/8​534967607/ (external link)

Viewfinder focus
http://www.flickr.com …/55498312@N05/8​536075388/ (external link)

Well, if you're going to do a test with two images, make sure you use the same settings and compare apples with apples.
Part of, if not all of, the answer is in your exif data.
Your live view shot was 1/40 at f1.4 and ISO1000
Your viewfinder shot was 1/50 at f1.4 and ISO 2500.
Even though you were at 30mm the shutter speed was too slow to begin with, given you were shooting A) something with the potential to move and B) you had the potential for camera shake and C) introduced noise with high ISO which would not help the apparent sharpness of the image. Combine that with a miniscule depth of field at f1.4 and you have bugger all margin for error.
I wouldn't be blaming the lens, but pointing the finger at user error.


Regards, Phil
2019 South Australian Country Press Assoc Sports Photo of the Year - Runner Up
2018 South Australian Country Press Assoc Sports Photo of the Year
2018 CAMS (now Motorsport Australia) Gold Accredited Photographer
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"A bad day at the race track is better than a good day in the office"

  
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Bill ­ Emmett
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Mar 06, 2013 23:25 |  #12

First, I am not familiar with your camera model. I do shoot with a Canon 50D, and it will set micro settings for up to 20 lenses. If you know how to check the setting, and micro focus of your camera, I would check that all the settings are at "0". If not set them to "0". But only if you have not set the micro focus settings for another lens. I would then purchase a copy of FoCal, a program from England. I use this program and have set up all my lenses. It has quite a set up, and you must aim your lenses exactly to the center of the target, and the camera MUST be on the same plane as the target. The full blown program will give you all the information about the lens, center focus, any adjustment, and sweet spot of the aperture. The program will automatically tune your lens to the camera. I have purchased two Sigma lenses in the past and have had serious quality control issues. I have gotten rid of all my Sigma lenses. I now shoot with a Tamron 18-270, Canon EF 70-200 f4L USM, Canon ef-S 18-135 STM Lens, and Canon EF 40mm Pancake STM lens. I have used FoCal on every lens. Of course the "L" glass has very little correction, but the Tamron, and EF -S 18-135 had considerable adjustment.


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CJ230K
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Mar 07, 2013 08:16 |  #13

mwsilver wrote in post #15685952 (external link)
It looks similar to my first copy of this lens from B&H. It was decentered to the right. The attached link is from Lens Rental. Read the instructions for use. If you right click on the test pattern and do a Save As, you can download it to your computer and enlarge it as needed. Once you focus on the center then defocus it a bit manually and take a picture, its easy to tell. if the doughnut and hole both remain completely concentric even after blurring, your ok. Try it at f/1.4. if not a trip to Sigma would be in order.

http://www.lensrentals​.com …technique-gets-a-makeover (external link)

Thanks mwsilver! I'll give this a test tonight and see what I find.

philwillmedia wrote in post #15685952 (external link)
Well, if you're going to do a test with two images, make sure you use the same settings and compare apples with apples.
Part of, if not all of, the answer is in your exif data.
Your live view shot was 1/40 at f1.4 and ISO1000
Your viewfinder shot was 1/50 at f1.4 and ISO 2500.
Even though you were at 30mm the shutter speed was too slow to begin with, given you were shooting A) something with the potential to move and B) you had the potential for camera shake and C) introduced noise with high ISO which would not help the apparent sharpness of the image. Combine that with a miniscule depth of field at f1.4 and you have bugger all margin for error.
I wouldn't be blaming the lens, but pointing the finger at user error.

I don't doubt some (maybe most) of this is to blame on my own user error, but I've read so much about so many focus issues with this particular lens, it's hard for me to think it's 100% my fault. I took some other pictures of my kids posing (not moving) in their room under normal lighting, and most of those pictures came out soft all around as well. A few had that sharpness that I'm looking for, just not as many as I'd like.
As for the potential for camera shake, I thought the general rule of thumb is to keep your shutter speed at 1/focal length and you'll generally avoid it? Those two pictures were taken with me laying on my belly on the kitchen floor with my arms stabilized on the ground, so I don't know how much camera shake had to do with those.
I will definitely take more test shots of the kids/dogs, this time using the same settings in Manual mode and then comparing Live View focusing and viewfinder focusing.

I appreciate everyone's advice on this. I want to love this lens so bad, as I love my nifty fifty w/ it's wide 1.8 aperture, it's just too tight for my needs indoors. Hopefully I can get this all sorted out, whether it's my technique, or the lens. I just want to get to taking some good pictures!


T3i gripped - 18-55 Kit Lens - Nifty Fifty - Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 - Sigma 30mm f/1.4 - Tamron 70-300 f/4.0-5.6 SP Di VC USD XLD - Canon 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM - Neewer TT560 - YongNuo YN-468 II

  
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philwillmedia
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Mar 07, 2013 14:16 |  #14

CJ230K wrote in post #15687055 (external link)
...I don't doubt some (maybe most) of this is to blame on my own user error, but I've read so much about so many focus issues with this particular lens, it's hard for me to think it's 100% my fault. I took some other pictures of my kids posing (not moving) in their room under normal lighting, and most of those pictures came out soft all around as well. A few had that sharpness that I'm looking for, just not as many as I'd like...

"Normal" inside lighting (no matter how good it might appear) is still cr@ppy and is generally not going to produce consistent results.
Do a test outside in decent light and you'll probably get the results you're looking for.
You're right about the rule of thumb, but it's just a guide and is not foolproof.
1/40 and 1/50sec is still pretty slow even with a 30mm and as still as you think you and the kids are, there is a pretty good chance that more often than not, you will still induce some camera shake and the kids (or the dog) will move slightly during the exposure.


Regards, Phil
2019 South Australian Country Press Assoc Sports Photo of the Year - Runner Up
2018 South Australian Country Press Assoc Sports Photo of the Year
2018 CAMS (now Motorsport Australia) Gold Accredited Photographer
Finallist - 2014 NT Media Awards
"A bad day at the race track is better than a good day in the office"

  
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Camera/Lens Calibration needed? Or do I just need to get better?
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