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Thread started 11 Mar 2013 (Monday) 12:16
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Are ball heads a PITA or is it just me?

 
almeeker
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Mar 13, 2013 17:14 |  #31

Give a look at an Acratech Ballhead. They are very lightweight and really do the job.




  
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LV ­ Moose
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Mar 13, 2013 17:17 |  #32

GroWeb wrote in post #15706661 (external link)
....Ever since I learned to hold primarily the ballhead at the base of the camera or lens when adjusting the positioning, and not the camera or lens alone, I no longer have sagging/settling problems with my Manfrotto 498RC2 head, and I am able to adjust it very precisely.

I've got the same head; I'll have to try that. Thanks.


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pwm2
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Mar 13, 2013 17:37 |  #33

How about people stop using the word "creep" when you mean "sag".

If there is creep when you lock down the head, then the camera will continue to droop more and more and more and more since the ball is slowly sliding. So aim point will continue to slowly change as the creep continues.

When there is sag, the ball isn't sliding. It is firmly locked. Just that either the mechanism changes the positioning of the ball a bit when the mechanism is tightened and the forces are increased. Or the head or some part of the tripod bends a bit when force is applied. If there is sag, the camera will still end up firmly held. But the lens will have ended up aimed lower than intended. But will stay aimed at same spot.


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mnphotos
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Mar 13, 2013 19:16 |  #34

Here's a nice option for $180.

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …79_002_BHD2_Bal​lhead.html (external link)

Or for $267.

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …9_022_BHL2_Ball​_Head.html (external link)


Gear List

  
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sawsedge
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Mar 13, 2013 20:00 as a reply to  @ post 15705514 |  #35

I'm surprised no one has posted this link. It's good advice.

http://bythom.com/supp​ort.htm (external link)


- John

  
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GroWeb
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Mar 13, 2013 21:47 |  #36

GroWeb wrote in post #15706661 (external link)
Ever since I learned to hold primarily the ballhead at the base of the camera or lens when adjusting the positioning, and not the camera or lens alone, I no longer have sagging/settling problems with my Manfrotto 498RC2 head, and I am able to adjust it very precisely

James33 wrote in post #15707322 (external link)
Guess I'll try this first before dropping the $$$$$ on a new head. Lots to choose from that's for sure. Thanks for all the help!

LV Moose wrote in post #15711818 (external link)
I've got the same head; I'll have to try that. Thanks.

Please report back to let it be known if this works for either or both of you.




  
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mak65
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Mar 13, 2013 22:13 |  #37

Like others I had the same problem with creep/droop/sag with my Manfrotto. Ditched it for an RRS BH-40 and won't look back.




  
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dave_bass5
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Mar 14, 2013 06:45 |  #38

My 496RC2 must be faulty as i dont have any of these issues with my 5DMKIII and 70-200 f/4 IS.

Maybe i just dont use it enough to loosen it to the point where it sags but in the year that ive had it ive not had any issues with it moving (or moving it)


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pwm2
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Mar 14, 2013 07:49 |  #39

dave_bass5 wrote in post #15713611 (external link)
My 496RC2 must be faulty as i dont have any of these issues with my 5DMKIII and 70-200 f/4 IS.

Maybe i just dont use it enough to loosen it to the point where it sags but in the year that ive had it ive not had any issues with it moving (or moving it)

Note that the 70-200 f/4 is a very light lens.

If you have a lens without own collar, you get much of the weight in front of the ball head.

If you have a bigger lens with lens collar, you normally have balance - as long as you aim at the horizon. If you aim up or down, then the balance will change since all the weight is well above the ball, and tilting the camera will then move the weight forward/backward.


5DMk2 + BG-E6 | 40D + BG-E2N | 350D + BG-E3 + RC-1 | Elan 7E | Minolta Dimage 7U | (Gear thread)
10-22 | 16-35/2.8 L II | 20-35 | 24-105 L IS | 28-135 IS | 40/2.8 | 50/1.8 II | 70-200/2.8 L IS | 100/2.8 L IS | 100-400 L IS | Sigma 18-200DC
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dave_bass5
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Mar 14, 2013 07:53 |  #40

Yes, i do have a collar for the 70-200 but never use it as, like you say, its pretty light anyway.
It just surprised me that the OP also mention problems with a 50mm lens.

Actually this thread has reminded me that i dont like the RC2 system at all, so i am actually going to change my Ball head now lol.
No idea what to go for but ill figure it out.


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Canon R7 | Canon EOS-M50 | Canon 24-70 f/2.8L MKII | 70-300L | 135L f/2.0 | EF-S 10-18 | 40 f/2.8 STM | 35mm f/2 IS | Canon S110 | Fuji F31FD | Canon 580EXII, 270EXII | Yongnuo YN-622C Triggers.

  
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jdizzle
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Mar 14, 2013 07:56 |  #41

dave_bass5 wrote in post #15713758 (external link)
Yes, i do have a collar for the 70-200 but never use it as, like you say, its pretty light anyway.
It just surprised me that the OP also mention problems with a 50mm lens.

Actually this thread has reminded me that i dont like the RC2 system at all, so i am actually going to change my Ball head now lol.
No idea what to go for but ill figure it out.

I recommend Markins if you have the budget for it.




  
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dave_bass5
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Mar 14, 2013 08:04 |  #42

Thanks. Unfortunately they are out f my budget. Im going to keep it low, around £100 - £130.
I had thought about a 3LT Airhead1 but ive seen cheaper versions on Amazon in the UK for around £89.


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Canon R7 | Canon EOS-M50 | Canon 24-70 f/2.8L MKII | 70-300L | 135L f/2.0 | EF-S 10-18 | 40 f/2.8 STM | 35mm f/2 IS | Canon S110 | Fuji F31FD | Canon 580EXII, 270EXII | Yongnuo YN-622C Triggers.

  
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pwm2
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Mar 14, 2013 08:04 |  #43

dave_bass5 wrote in post #15713758 (external link)
Yes, i do have a collar for the 70-200 but never use it as, like you say, its pretty light anyway.
It just surprised me that the OP also mention problems with a 50mm lens.

I haven't tried your newer head. I have the 488RC2.

But I think much of the issue is that when you twist the screw to tighten the friction, this will make the clamp around the ball slightly deform, which results in the ball slightly drooping down. So you aim the lens and then tighten the head and then notice that the lens now points a bit below the original target.


5DMk2 + BG-E6 | 40D + BG-E2N | 350D + BG-E3 + RC-1 | Elan 7E | Minolta Dimage 7U | (Gear thread)
10-22 | 16-35/2.8 L II | 20-35 | 24-105 L IS | 28-135 IS | 40/2.8 | 50/1.8 II | 70-200/2.8 L IS | 100/2.8 L IS | 100-400 L IS | Sigma 18-200DC
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dave_bass5
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Mar 14, 2013 08:08 |  #44

Well you could be right, its just something that i haven't noticed. i do tend to frame wide most of the time so that might hide it, but I have shot the moon a few times and its been more or less where i wanted it to be, even when using 200% live view.


Dave.
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Canon R7 | Canon EOS-M50 | Canon 24-70 f/2.8L MKII | 70-300L | 135L f/2.0 | EF-S 10-18 | 40 f/2.8 STM | 35mm f/2 IS | Canon S110 | Fuji F31FD | Canon 580EXII, 270EXII | Yongnuo YN-622C Triggers.

  
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Lowner
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Mar 14, 2013 08:27 |  #45

dave_bass5 wrote in post #15713611 (external link)
My 496RC2 must be faulty as i dont have any of these issues with my 5DMKIII and 70-200 f/4 IS.

Maybe i just dont use it enough to loosen it to the point where it sags but in the year that ive had it ive not had any issues with it moving (or moving it)

Its most apparent when lining up shots of the moon and stars with long lens, in the 500mm bracket. Wide angle lenses will never notice it. Try lining up something on the top or bottom edge of the frame, tighten up the ballhead and then let go.


Richard

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Are ball heads a PITA or is it just me?
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