High Speed Sync Studio Strobes?

is there any manufactured? Can it be done without a DYI mod?

I have a 430 EXII and a high speed sync/TTL wireless trigger YN622C, so I can do it with a speedlight but in the future I want to advance into using more powerful lighting such as in strobes would have on the field and on-location, and not need many speedlights to achieve that same power...

ChrisAdval wrote in post #15716949
is there any manufactured? Can it be done without a DYI mod?

I have a 430 EXII and a high speed sync/TTL wireless trigger YN622C, so I can do it with a speedlight but in the future I want to advance into using more powerful lighting such as in strobes would have on the field and on-location, and not need many speedlights to achieve that same power...

There is no studio strobe made that emulates Canon's "High Speed Sync" mode.

There is no possible "DYI" mode to truly emulate Canon's "High Speed Sync" mode. That's because when using a Canon Speedlite (or a clone) in HSS mode, the flash unit output is a very rapid string of very short pulses of light over a much longer than normal period of time (as compared to a conventional flash output burst). The purpose is to provide what essentially becomes a constant light source while the camera's focal plane shutter travels the whole distance across the film or sensor plane. You cannot make any flash unit that is not designed to do the "High Speed Sync" mode (Canon's Speedlites and a few clones) emulate that mode.

You have started two threads which are essentially asking the same thing. It would be good if you asked the moderators to combine the two threads.

The Cheetah Light CL180 and soon to be announced CL 360 are the closest to studio strobes that offer the FP-sync capability. They have an H mode setting that does the high speed cycling required for the longer output duration. As with the Canon speedlites there is an output penalty. The YN-622 can be used or the Cells-II transmitter. The Cells-II triggers the light via it CL-Rx module. The YN-622 requires a receiver attached to the light via a mini-plug.

The lights are available from; https://www.cheetahsta​nd.com/category-s/1938.htm

Full disclosure: I have been testing the capability for Edward. It works well and as Skip described becomes a constant light source so that shutter speed does affect exposure.

SkipD wrote in post #15717355
There is no studio strobe made that emulates Canon's "High Speed Sync" mode.

There is no possible "DYI" mode to truly emulate Canon's "High Speed Sync" mode. That's because when using a Canon Speedlite (or a clone) in HSS mode, the flash unit output is a very rapid string of very short pulses of light over a much longer than normal period of time (as compared to a conventional flash output burst). The purpose is to provide what essentially becomes a constant light source while the camera's focal plane shutter travels the whole distance across the film or sensor plane. You cannot make any flash unit that is not designed to do the "High Speed Sync" mode (Canon's Speedlites and a few clones) emulate that mode.

I totally agree with SkipD on this.
Personally I tried defying all the seasoned flash experts and tried to mix Speedlites and studio flashes; because I thought there must be a way to trick the system - especially as the Bowens Pro series at one time alluded that it could happen!
Forget it!
It wasnt ignorance or arrogance on my part - it was purely financially driven.
I needed 2 speedlites in the summer for external work, and in bad weather wanted studio lights for power per £.
HOWEVER IT MAY AND IMO WILL NEVER DO HSS. BUT the Bowens GM500 PRO series does have a very quick Flash Duration 1/2,900 of a sec. Of course you set your 7D at its max synch speed of 1/250 and the 5D3 at its max sync of 1/200 of a sec (manual not on Ipad4 yet so may be wrong)
So effectively the shutter opens for the correct 1/250 sec but sometime within that 1/250 sec period the strobe flashes for 1/2,900 sec. That is enough to freeze flying paint in the air so it looks like solid pellets or a mantle. It can also be used say on french window with the sun coming in against the subjects back - to fill flash this side of your subject. Sure its not a true 1/2,900 sec exposure as the shutter is still technically open for the remaining part of the flash synch - but obviously with no Flash.
Apparrently there are even faster studio flashes running at a flash duration of 1/4000 sec.
Can't remember the name. So it depends what you want to do with them?

Let's make sure High Speed Sync is properly defined;
Canon uses the term to identify its implementation of flat power (FP sync) with speedlites. It does not reduce the flash duration, it increases it.

If the OP wants short flash duration then reduce the power on a speedlite. The IGBT power control circuit reduces power by quenching the flash thus shortening its duration. This is done to keep as much power as possible in the capacitor at all times. That's why the recycle time goes down as the power is lessened.

If the OP means they want to use studio strobes at shutter speeds beyond the camera x-sync that's essentially impossible. As mentioned, the only flash units that come close are the CL-180 and 360. They have approximately the same Watt second output as a smaller moonlight and do have a High Speed Sync like H mode. As with speedlites that capability is at the expense of peak light output.

In their normal M mode they too shorten flash duration as power is reduced.

There is one setup that I know will allow you to shoot beyond the cameras sync-speed. Using the Elinchrom Ranger system and the standard "S" head(s) triggered by the Pocket Wizards Mini TT1 and Power ST4 system.

Using this system I am able to sync at up to 1/1000s on my 5DMkII and at any power level. There is a very light touch of banding at this speed but its barely noticeable and from 1/800 and down its clean as a whistle.

By using the longer flash duration of the "S" heads and the Hyper Synch function of the Pocket Wizard your in business. And using the Pocket Wizard Utility you can hone the max sync speed, I am still toying with it but so far this is where I am at. I still have to do more with my 7D but so far I am only getting 1/500s clean with banding starting at 1/800s and faster.

Here is a link to photographer Tom Bol's blog where he has done a pretty extensive research project on this setup. http://tombolphoto.com …ore-rangerhypersync-news/ Hope this is useful info.

Why are you looking for HSS on a studio strobe anyway? If you need to freeze motion then rather look for strobes with a shorter pulse duration. If you want to kill ambience but retain wider apertures then get a ND filter.

Anyone up for educating me ? .... please.

In practical terms whats the difference in using HSS Or a short flash duration on the Bowens studio lights say 1/2,900 sec.
Is it not about freezing action?
I appreciate that the Bowens route is not a purists dream, as the exposure continues throughout the whole duration of the 1/250 sync time; and therefore to say keep the subject exposed and the background underexposed one uses very small apertures.
I appreciate that affects the DOF. And could be a real limiter creatively speaking,
In my mind that is the only shortcoming or penalty of using the studio system.

My understanding was one can shorten the flash duration on a Speed lite but by upping the power. And because the physical power is somewhat limited, its desirable to use the other method HSS. to use high shutter speeds. OR use studio lights.

If I am wrong please let me know as I'd really like to improve in the area.

Just seen beorewors post which may answer the DOF issue? Seems clever but is that the usual way?

This thread is all about ND filters being used for shooting wide apertures in daylight with flash. It should answer all you need to know
https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1154254

Submariner wrote in post #15720859
My understanding was one can shorten the flash duration on a Speed lite but by upping the power.

That is backwards. Canon Speedlites have a longer flash duration with higher power settings.

SkipD wrote in post #15720893
That is backwards. Canon Speedlites have a longer flash duration with higher power settings.

Thanks didn't realise that, I just thought the duration was increased in HSS mode to allow for multiple flashes.

In normal mode I thought as the power increased the duration decreased , and the recycle time increased.
- appreciate the info

boerewors wrote in post #15720878
This thread is all about ND filters being used for shooting wide apertures in daylight with flash. It should answer all you need to know
https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1154254

Thanks for link.
Only thing is, to me ND filters really seem to have a "look" about them, which I am not sure I like.
It's as though people dont look too nice, almost a bit like the look you get with these new videos, that one minute look like real actors, and then the next they look like cartoons.

But I have had some surgery that seems to have slightly effected my vision maybe need a new prescription for the glasses? So i'll hold off judgement for the moment.

Unfortunately, the OP hasn't provided any extra information about WHY he/she wants the ability to shoot above their camera's sync speed and there seems to be a ton of speculation. You guys don't know if the OP wants to freeze a moving bullet or just shoot wide open.

Real HSS is truly only possible with a leaf shutter lens, as opposed to a focal plane shutter.. What canon has to offer with HSS and strobes is reduced power by around a stop to have the flash duration consistent with the shutter speed. As far as studio strobes, you would need a set with a much longer flash duration and that still wouldn't work the same I believe..

One of the major reasons I switched to the H system for 1/800 sync with any strobes..

Zerimar wrote in post #15721260
Real HSS is truly only possible with a leaf shutter lens, as opposed to a focal plane shutter.. What canon has to offer with HSS and strobes is reduced power by around a stop to have the flash duration consistent with the shutter speed. As far as studio strobes, you would need a set with a much longer flash duration and that still wouldn't work the same I believe..

One of the major reasons I switched to the H system for 1/800 sync with any strobes..

High Speed Sync is a marketing department creation.
There are 3 kinds of sync that I know about;
A) X-sync which is for the max shutter speed with both curtains off the sensor to support a Xeon flash tube firing.

B) C-sync which is Copal shutter sync. i.e. leaf shutters which can support flash firing at any speed up to their 1/500 maximum speed.

C) FP Sync Flat Power sync which is an early fire signal for focal plane shutters to permit specially designed flash bulbs to begin their flat power burn which provided constant illumination for the duration of the focal plane shutter curtain travel across the sensor.

Short flash duration for stopping action and HSS are opposites. Short duration flash burn is a strobe design consideration. HSS is specialized firing scheme to lengthen flash burn.