High Speed Sync Studio Strobes?

Submariner wrote in post #15721107
Thanks for link.
Only thing is, to me ND filters really seem to have a "look" about them, which I am not sure I like.
It's as though people dont look too nice, almost a bit like the look you get with these new videos, that one minute look like real actors, and then the next they look like cartoons.

But I have had some surgery that seems to have slightly effected my vision maybe need a new prescription for the glasses? So i'll hold off judgement for the moment.

that look youre talking about is caused by people mixing polarizers with their ND filters.

dmward wrote in post #15721358
B) C-sync which is Copal shutter sync. i.e. leaf shutters which can support flash firing at any speed up to their 1/500 maximum speed.

Not sure if you were throwing a theoretical number out or not, but leaf shutter systems can sync higher than that. The H system, which i also have, syncs up to 1/800th.

Example:

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …olphotography/4​851255695/

symbolphoto wrote in post #15724020
The H system, which i also have, syncs up to 1/800th.

By "H system", do you mean Hasselblad?

It's a good idea to let the newbies here understand what's being written about.

Aressem wrote in post #15721222
Unfortunately, the OP hasn't provided any extra information about WHY he/she wants the ability to shoot above their camera's sync speed and there seems to be a ton of speculation. You guys don't know if the OP wants to freeze a moving bullet or just shoot wide open.

Possibly that the op wants to use his strobes on location outdoors and shooting wide open.

I also have nd filters and a circular polarizer that shooting wide open at f2.8 and iso100 is still way above the shutter sync speed. Going to a higher nd also affect the viewfinder brightness.

symbolphoto wrote in post #15724020
Not sure if you were throwing a theoretical number out or not, but leaf shutter systems can sync higher than that. The H system, which i also have, syncs up to 1/800th.

That is at 1/750th with an Elinchrom Ranger.

A couple of leaf shutter Mamiya/Phase lenses, known as LS lenses can technically sync at 1/1600. The problem syncing that fast is that it's oftentimes also cutting out light in part of the curve. Depending on the type of light etc...

.02

As I was writing that, I was thinking that it had been years since I used a leaf shutter lens and that it was likely they had improved speed capabilities along with focal plane shutters.

I went ahead and included it because I didn't have time to check and I knew someone with more current knowledge would help.

The principle is still valid, leaf shutters, by their design do not impose a constraint on flash sync. They will not "clip" the light at any speed.

Thanks,

There is a DIY mod to use studio strobes on location for more power in broad daylight:

http://www.prophotonut​.com …r-mobil-and-canon-5d-mk2/

Its clumsy, but it certainly works. I have tested it up to 1/2000 on my 5DmkII and 60D. However, unless you are fixated on using f8+ outside, you can get similar results by simply having your flash closer to the subject.

-Scott

SkipD wrote in post #15724033
By "H system", do you mean Hasselblad?

It's a good idea to let the newbies here understand what's being written about.

Yes, Hasselblad.

sspellman wrote in post #15724166
There is a DIY mod to use studio strobes on location for more power in broad daylight:

http://www.prophotonut​.com …r-mobil-and-canon-5d-mk2/

Its clumsy, but it certainly works. I have tested it up to 1/2000 on my 5DmkII and 60D. However, unless you are fixated on using f8+ outside, you can get similar results by simply having your flash closer to the subject.

-Scott

There are now triggers that will get the camera to switch to FP-Sync which is what this hack was accomplishing. That is the key to getting the studio lights to fire so one can take advantage of the energy tail.

boerewors wrote in post #15720830
Why are you looking for HSS on a studio strobe anyway? If you need to freeze motion then rather look for strobes with a shorter pulse duration. If you want to kill ambience but retain wider apertures then get a ND filter.

well if I want to shoot, for example, a big light source thats heavily softened but still powerful enough to be a key light over powering ambiance. I can do that yea with speedlights... but not just (1) speedlight... I would need multiple speedlights for the extra needed power. So for efficiency purposes I prefer to carry around one studio strobe than 10 speedlights, which may likely cost me more than the one studio strobe. (purpose of use is more leaning towards fashion/model photography on-location outdoors)

I do plan on buying a Variable Neutral Density Filter, which is very expensive and cannot afford right now...

Aressem wrote in post #15721222
Unfortunately, the OP hasn't provided any extra information about WHY he/she wants the ability to shoot above their camera's sync speed and there seems to be a ton of speculation. You guys don't know if the OP wants to freeze a moving bullet or just shoot wide open.

wide open, ability to shoot at clear skies, highest level of sun ambiance, get perfect balance in exposure from sky to human subject(s), and still have ability to shoot at auto focus (ND may affect this)

These new studio strobes sound interesting..

http://www.lencarta.co​m …om-lencarta/#.UUhD3RyeOSp

Yaamon wrote in post #15724053
Possibly that the op wants to use his strobes on location outdoors and shooting wide open.

I also have nd filters and a circular polarizer that shooting wide open at f2.8 and iso100 is still way above the shutter sync speed. Going to a higher nd also affect the viewfinder brightness.

That's why there are vari ND filters!

wambam wrote in post #15731200
These new studio strobes sound interesting..

http://www.lencarta.co​m …om-lencarta/#.UUhD3RyeOSp

As the blog points out the short duration flash is because the light is using IGBT power control. This is the same power control that Buff used in the Einstein which also has very short flash duration at lower power settings.

Given the price, the 600Ws unit is about the same price as the Einstein E640, I'd probably opt for that in the US. Outside the US these are probably the best alternative for short duration flash at an attractive price.

dmward wrote in post #15717600
The Cheetah Light CL180 and soon to be announced CL 360 are the closest to studio strobes that offer the FP-sync capability. They have an H mode setting that does the high speed cycling required for the longer output duration... The YN-622 requires a receiver attached to the light via a mini-plug.

As only the sync Fire! signal is being transmitted by the PC-sync port. how do you set the HSS/FP "flat light" duration in H mode?

SkipD wrote in post #15717355
There is no studio strobe made that emulates Canon's "High Speed Sync" mode.

Not quite true. I have a Promaster D400R. It has a "FP mode" (HSS). That is the only reason I bought it. It will sync up to 8000th. It works exactly as our speed lights do.

It looses a lot of power just like our speedlights do in HSS. But it is still a LOT brighter than a speedlight.

They are discontinued now. Not sure why these didnt sell like crazy for the FP mode alone.

Really.. wow.. now I have to go check on those D400R's! Thanks Mark!