High Speed Sync Studio Strobes?

ChrisAdval wrote in post #15730278
well if I want to shoot, for example, a big light source thats heavily softened but still powerful enough to be a key light over powering ambiance. I can do that yea with speedlights... but not just (1) speedlight... I would need multiple speedlights for the extra needed power. So for efficiency purposes I prefer to carry around one studio strobe than 10 speedlights, which may likely cost me more than the one studio strobe. (purpose of use is more leaning towards fashion/model photography on-location outdoors)

I do plan on buying a Variable Neutral Density Filter, which is very expensive and cannot afford right now...

wide open, ability to shoot at clear skies, highest level of sun ambiance, get perfect balance in exposure from sky to human subject(s), and still have ability to shoot at auto focus (ND may affect this)

So you've basically answered your own question. Variable ND that's on my wish list too but I just spent $1000 on the new Sigma 35mm f/1.4 so it'll have to wait

One question; How far away from the subject you you plan to have the strobe with modifier?
Next question; How far will the subject be from the background?
Third question; How critical is DoF other than blurring the background?
Fourth question; what is maximum aperture of your lens?
Fifth question; What is the focal length of your lens?
Sixth question; How far are you going to be from the subject?
Seventh question; Where is the sun relative to your subject?
Eighth question; Is the background sunlit?
Ninth question; Is the sun striking the subject directly?

Once all these questions are answered, and there are probably some others that haven't come to mind, you will be in a position to decide how to light the shot and whether there is an advantage to having your shutter speed greater than x-sync.

Aressem wrote in post #15737158
So you've basically answered your own question. Variable ND that's on my wish list too but I just spent $1000 on the new Sigma 35mm f/1.4 so it'll have to wait

that problem I am hearing, and seen (in creativeLIVE workshops) that you can have issues with auto-focus when the viewfinder is totally blacked out... correct?

dmward wrote in post #15737367
One question; How far away from the subject you you plan to have the strobe with modifier?
Next question; How far will the subject be from the background?
Third question; How critical is DoF other than blurring the background?
Fourth question; what is maximum aperture of your lens?
Fifth question; What is the focal length of your lens?
Sixth question; How far are you going to be from the subject?
Seventh question; Where is the sun relative to your subject?
Eighth question; Is the background sunlit?
Ninth question; Is the sun striking the subject directly?

Once all these questions are answered, and there are probably some others that haven't come to mind, you will be in a position to decide how to light the shot and whether there is an advantage to having your shutter speed greater than x-sync.

1; far as possible, not sure exactly, but I want to capture some detailed environmental portraits with very soft lighting in most cases...
2; some cases the background may be a very big mountain thats miles away... so, pretty far...
3; a lot in some cases... sometimes I may shoot at a higher DOF such as f/13-16 for some environmentals
4; current 2.8, but plan on getting 85 1.2 in the future
5; ^
6; 85mm to 150mm (using 85 1.2 or 24-70 [at 70mm] or 70-200 [at 120 to 170] most of the time at least...
7; generally rules of thirds, so if I am shooting in landscape angles (which I do most of the time in environmentals) top left or top right or center left/right most of the time
8; yes, I don't like having human subjects looking at sun light so I'll use that as the back light
9; not sure what you mean here...

Chris,
Interesting answers.
My reason for asking the questions was to illustrate that those are the questions, the answers for which in each shooting situation will determine how you will need to use lighting, camera settings, lens features etc. to determine how best to get the shot you envision.

i.e. there is not one lighting formula that works for every shot.

dmward wrote in post #15738192
Chris,
Interesting answers.
My reason for asking the questions was to illustrate that those are the questions, the answers for which in each shooting situation will determine how you will need to use lighting, camera settings, lens features etc. to determine how best to get the shot you envision.

i.e. there is not one lighting formula that works for every shot.

I agree... I made the topic to see if its possible to make life a bit easier, less expensive, efficient, etc.. with studio strobes with an HSS feature... I don't have tons of HSS speedlights right now, but if I wanted to achieve something with one studio strobe than use 10 HSS speedlights to meet the same power as that one studio strobe... get me? I want to be able to go on-location shoots not needing to have that many HSS speedlights and just take 1 maybe 2-4 max studio strobes (w/ HSS feature if they make them)... and meet my photo vision, such as exposure balance from background to subject in the cases that I would need to. I know a vari ND would work, but it has its limits when its completely black and auto-focus wouldn't work unless I pre-focus, which isn't hard, just time consuming and an extra unnecessary step to achieve the photograph... not saying I won't do it, but just think a new market of new equipment for studio strobes would be beneficial for me and many others that do not want the limitations of a vari/ND filter...

Everything in photography is a compromise.
HSS is as well. In order to get the extended light duration the strobe has to output less light over a longer period.

At the moment there are not any studio strobes that support high speed sync.

The closest is the about to be introduced Cheetah Light 360. It has a full power rating approaching 360 Ws. It also supports a version of HSS called H mode. Like Canon HSS it rapidly cycles the light to provide a longer duration to support FP sync. And like Canon that capability is available at a penalty. i.e. lower light output.

Bottom line, its better than a Canon speedlite, but still less output than available at x sync speeds.

Someone mentioned it earlier but no one caught on (for some reason?)

I'll add myself to the list of people who can shoot at 1/8000th, wide open.

My rig:

1dx
Pocketwizard Mini TT1 on cam
Pocketwizard ST4 on Ranger
Ranger RX AS Speed
"S' Head

Not claiming it's HSS but who cares what it's technically labelled? I can shoot at f/2.8 outdoors into the sun with a powerful studio strobe, call it whatever you like

BJWOK wrote in post #15741408
Someone mentioned it earlier but no one caught on (for some reason?)

I'll add myself to the list of people who can shoot at 1/8000th, wide open.

My rig:

1dx
Pocketwizard Mini TT5 on cam
Pocketwizard ST4 on Ranger
Ranger RX AS Speed
"S' Head

Not claiming it's HSS but who cares what it's technically labelled? I can shoot at f/2.8 outdoors into the sun with a powerful studio strobe, call it whatever you like

but you can only on the the Ranger RX AS Speed?

I cannot confirm that it is the ONLY Ranger to enable it.

I don't have any other Ranger's in my kit to try it on, however it definitely works on this setup.

Here's an examples from a recent shoot: (albeit not 1/8000th, I only needed 1/800th to convincingly under expose the bright blue sky - shot just after midday)

f/2.8, 1/800th ISO 100

BJWOK wrote in post #15742447
I cannot confirm that it is the ONLY Ranger to enable it.

I don't have any other Ranger's in my kit to try it on, however it definitely works on this setup.

Here's an examples from a recent shoot: (albeit not 1/8000th, I only needed 1/800th to convincingly under expose the bright blue sky - shot just after midday)

f/2.8, 1/800th ISO 100

nice, that's the type of outdoor portraits I'd like to capture or at least more underexposed ambient... I wonder if it would work with the YN622s...

yeah, it's what i was looking for in a outdoor studio strobe for some time.

and for those wondering, i can confirm that the above setup works seamlessly in conjunction with Speedlite 680EX RT's. I have a flex TT5 (with the latest pocketwizard firmware) on each Speedlite and the same shooting possibilities

BJWOK wrote in post #15742590
yeah, it's what i was looking for in a outdoor studio strobe for some time.

and for those wondering, i can confirm that the above setup works seamlessly in conjunction with Speedlite 680EX RT's. I have a flex TT5 (with the latest pocketwizard firmware) on each Speedlite and the same shooting possibilities

Go to the Pocket Wizard site and read about HyperSync.
http://www.pocketwizar​d.com …hypersync_tutor​ial_video/

That's what you're using.
The Ranger, with S head has a full power duration of about 1/1200 second t.5 which means a t.1 about 1/400 and as you reduce power the tail on the flash to t.1 lengthens.

Its a useful tool, and has similar power penalties.

PS: unless they've introduced a new model down under, I think you meant 600EX-RT.

BJWOK wrote in post #15741408
Not claiming it's HSS but who cares what it's technically labelled?

The O/P, apparently. He knows the difference between HSS (in the topic title) and Hypersync. Different technologies, different photog techniques.

I'm fully aware of HyperSync and it's differences to HSS.

That was why I purchased the Ranger with S head and updated my pocketwizard firmware.

That's the problem here: too many puppies get tangled in the specifics of "how" and "what" and "why" when all the OP wanted to know was if it there were studio strobes that make it possible to shoot wide open outside without using ND filters.

The answer: Yes, with the gear I mentioned.

Clive, the OP has not once mentioned HyperSync.

dmward wrote in post #15742674
PS: unless they've introduced a new model down under, I think you meant 600EX-RT.

Sorry mate, you're correct - that was a typo on my behalf.