High Speed Sync Studio Strobes?

BJWOK wrote in post #15744638
That's the problem here: too many puppies get tangled in the specifics of "how" and "what" and "why" when all the OP wanted to know was if it there were studio strobes that make it possible to shoot wide open outside without using ND filters.

Look at post #1 - your re-wording is quite unwarranted.

BJWOK wrote in post #15744638
The answer: Yes, with the gear I mentioned.

Also with the YN-622 which the o/p already has. He knows that "supersync" is available, if minus the timing control on PWs.

BJWOK wrote in post #15744638
Clive, the OP has not once mentioned HyperSync.

Exactly my point - so why give a Hypersync answer? And complain that others have ignored that option.

I can look into other options, but sounds like my YN622s are not able to do any Hypersync, so you recommend getting pocket wizards to do hyper sync on that studio strobe?

ChrisAdval wrote in post #15745332
I can look into other options, but sounds like my YN622s are not able to do any Hypersync, so you recommend getting pocket wizards to do hyper sync on that studio strobe?

You may not understand the "hypersync" thing. There is no light meter made that can give you proper settings for exposure when using the technique. It's largely trial-and-error, at least until you find a combination of settings and light-to-subject distance in a particular type of ambient light. For me, this is a useless technique for anything but experimental fun photography.

This may be an option worth looking at
https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1270039

ChrisAdval wrote in post #15745332
I can look into other options, but sounds like my YN622s are not able to do any Hypersync, so you recommend getting pocket wizards to do hyper sync on that studio strobe?

That is not so, Chris.

HSS (High Speed Sync spelt with capitals) is a patented technology which Canon and others use. Canon calls it "flat light", and is extended from before the shutter opens to after it closes. Zenon tubes need to be excited frequently to function this way. Apart from the 5-stop drop in light getting through the lens to the sensor from x-sync to 1/8000th. the average power normally produced is re-distributed over some 10ms or so of the entire shutter action. David Ward covered HSS with studio strobes - a very limited product range.

But, the 622s do what YN calls supersync. It is similar to PW's patented Hypersync, but lacks the user-settable timings. This means that the T1 timing of a studio strobe is critical. A short T1 will not last long enough. So, buy a strobe with a long T1 (1/400th or 2.5 milliseconds), They should work just fine, and in some circumstances, a shorter T1 will do. (Look at a strobe's specs - the T5 is just the starting peak; supersync needs the tail time also - the T1 time.)

Of course, any form of hypersync is challenged to provide enough light when the shutter is shut down 5 stops below x-sync. The shutter does, does control the amount of light in the high-speed shutter zone. A good example of a flash suited to this use is the Jinbei Discovery 1200w.

Used in supersync with YN-622C triggers.

BTW, Chris. In another thread you asked if HSS flashes and non-hotshoe flashes can be mixed. Yes they can. It takes more skill, but that adds to the reward.

Hot-shoe flashes and studio strobes can be added to the mix. What is difficult is mixing E-TTL-set and Manual set flashes, unless the manual ones are hairlight, background, etc, not contributing to the main subject's exposure. It's similar to mixing flash with sun.

You will find more info in "The Other YN-622C User Guide" - see my signature for a link. It has several sections on mixing studio lights using the 622s.

This is the very reason I don't often join in conversations on this board anymore.

Let's just leave it at this: if you want to shoot wide open with studio strobes and not use ND filters there are a bunch of ways to do it.

There are a couple of explanations how to with examples in this thread.

You can argue back and forth all day what they are called and how they specifically work or you can just go out and shoot wide open with studio strobes on location using the techniques given here.

I'll take the later.

CliveyBoy wrote in post #15733478
As only the sync Fire! signal is being transmitted by the PC-sync port. how do you set the HSS/FP "flat light" duration in H mode?

Clive, I missed this question, sorry.
The CL-180 is switched into H mode on the light by a button push. There is then an ability to set the H mode power from 1/1 to 1/8. The CL-180 has a remote power adjustment capability via the CL-Tx. So, its basically like setting power for a normal strobe shot.

Mark1 wrote in post #15733894
Not quite true. I have a Promaster D400R. It has a "FP mode" (HSS). That is the only reason I bought it. It will sync up to 8000th. It works exactly as our speed lights do.

It looses a lot of power just like our speedlights do in HSS. But it is still a LOT brighter than a speedlight.

They are discontinued now. Not sure why these didnt sell like crazy for the FP mode alone.

Per Mark above, I went and checked out these lights, and then went ahead and bought two of them. In the store, I was testing and it seemed I was hyper synching, as when I dropped the power output from full (6) down to less than 5.4 i was getting partial frame. But here at home was able to read the one line in the manual, and give it a go and here is one of the results:

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …ddenrockranch/8​581856049/

ksbal wrote in post #15746268
HSS and Hypersynch to your specifications, I'd be happy to produce whatever you are looking for. Unfortunately, it is overcast here today, so any sunny tests will have to wait on the weather.

These are not set up to have a battery pack...??? I'm limited to where I can plug in. Generator time to go out in the woods or might there be another option?

The FP mode, as described in the manual is a version of Canon High Speed Sync. They are rapidly cycling the flash to extend its duration for higher shutter speeds.

The gradient is a by product.

The much shorter flash duration as power in reduced indicates that these units are using the same power control scheme used by a speedlite. You will notice, when going into FP mode that there is about 2 stops less light. That's because the stored energy is being spent over a longer duration. This makes the strobe a constant light source and thus the shutter does influence exposure just as with any constant light source.

As for portable power, check the Buff VML battery pack. It may work providing these lights are not dual voltage.

ksbal wrote in post #15746268
Per Mark above, I went and checked out these lights, and then went ahead and bought two of them. In the store, I was testing and it seemed I was hyper synching, as when I dropped the power output from full (6) down to less than 5.4 i was getting partial frame. But here at home was able to read the one line in the manual, and give it a go and here is one of the results:

Exif data
Camera Canon EOS 50D
Exposure 0.001 sec (1/1000)
Aperture f/3.5
Focal Length 50 mm
ISO Speed 200
Exposure Bias 0 EV
Flash On, Fired
X-Resolution 96 dpi
Y-Resolution 96 dpi


The equipment is a 50D, yn-622's and the promaster D400R strobe. And, this is bounced in a 60inch umbrella.

I'm going to mess with them today, I also played with the stroboscopic mode and got it to work, but not exactly sure my lighting conditions were ideal. (think everything blurry and too much ambient) When in FP/HSS mode, it appeared to have falloff as I went up to 1/4000 of a second, I did have to increase ISO, but there was no banding on any shutter speed I played with when in that mode.

What I know about flash is minimal, and I know even less about strobes, so if anyone would like to outline a test showing Strobic, HSS and Hypersynch to your specifications, I'd be happy to produce whatever you are looking for. Unfortunately, it is overcast here today, so any sunny tests will have to wait on the weather.

These are not set up to have a battery pack...??? I'm limited to where I can plug in. Generator time to go out in the woods or might there be another option?

http://www.paulcbuff.c​om/vagabond.php

dmward wrote in post #15746878
The FP mode, as described in the manual is a version of Canon High Speed Sync. They are rapidly cycling the flash to extend its duration for higher shutter speeds.

The gradient is a by product.

The much shorter flash duration as power in reduced indicates that these units are using the same power control scheme used by a speedlite. You will notice, when going into FP mode that there is about 2 stops less light. That's because the stored energy is being spent over a longer duration. This makes the strobe a constant light source and thus the shutter does influence exposure just as with any constant light source.

As for portable power, check the Buff VML battery pack. It may work providing these lights are not dual voltage.

Thanks, I think I'll have a lot of fun with these units - and thanks for the vagabond tip, I bet those will work for these as they are only set up for ac power.

ksbal wrote in post #15749323
Thanks, I think I'll have a lot of fun with these units - and thanks for the vagabond tip, I bet those will work for these as they are only set up for ac power.

According to the spec sheet, they are single voltage so the VML should work just fine.

i just got a d400r, too this thing is awesome!
my b800 will be for sale shortly