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Thread started 17 Mar 2013 (Sunday) 13:26
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Colour shift when using CS6 vs DPP.

 
Bob_A
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Mar 17, 2013 19:03 |  #16

You should see zero difference between what you see in CS4 and what you see in CS6 if your working space and warnings have been set up the same for each application. Open up PS CS6 and under Edit -> Color Settings see what your working space is for both CS4 and CS6. Also under "Profile Mismatches" and "Missing Profiles" do you have both checked to "Ask when opening"?

If your images are untagged (no embedded profile) and you aren't set up to receive a warning when they are brought into CS6 then you could see color shifts if the working space in CS6 is different than what was used to create the image.

Also, digital paradise gave a really nice example of how different profiles can effect color. They don't just change vibrance, but they twist different colors around so that you get significantly different color results.


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Mar 17, 2013 21:02 |  #17

The working space was the same on both (North American General Purpose) but the check boxes weren't checked IN EITHER program. After putting a check mark I now get asked to (CS 6)Use the imbedded, Convert to working space, or Discard and I've tried them all but still get the same color cast. I can't have both CS 4 & SC 6 running at the same time so each test requires a fresh re start.
If I select Discard in CS 4 I get a minor purplish tint to the sky again but it's not greenish like in CS 6.


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Mar 18, 2013 00:44 |  #18

You haven't said anything about your White Balance...? ACR and DPP have different "approaches" to White Balance, when you look at a shot in ACR and in DPP does the color match?


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Mar 18, 2013 08:04 |  #19

To me they look correct & did before the Save (in CS) which has been corrected Now it's the tint when using the normal work area of CS 6 (which I just started using because of this particular issue). White balance also looks correct in both programs & in the work area of CS 4. This was processed in DPP & has enough white for you to judge if I'm right about the whites. (My eyes see it as a clean white without any tint)

IMAGE: http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8Y-A0ckamvQ/UUOqLCIYKhI/AAAAAAAARms/mQ4ks1cI6A4/s1024/INGR8824DPPv1D1.jpg

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Mar 18, 2013 09:12 |  #20

tonylong wrote in post #15726875 (external link)
You haven't said anything about your White Balance...? ACR and DPP have different "approaches" to White Balance, when you look at a shot in ACR and in DPP does the color match?

I'd agree with Tony. Even set to "As Shot" they can look quite different whilst setting WB to daylight can yield very different results between raw editors.


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Mar 18, 2013 10:13 |  #21

cicopo wrote in post #15727498 (external link)
To me they look correct & did before the Save (in CS) which has been corrected Now it's the tint when using the normal work area of CS 6 (which I just started using because of this particular issue). White balance also looks correct in both programs & in the work area of CS 4. This was processed in DPP & has enough white for you to judge if I'm right about the whites. (My eyes see it as a clean white without any tint)

QUOTED IMAGE

I think you have pushed the whites far too far, the top surfaces of the aircraft look way over exposed, then you have done exactly the same thing with the blacks in the oposite direction, blocking up the shadows. There is no detail that I can see in the white parts, and the same in the shadows. Obviously without seeing the actual RAW file it is hard to tell if you have actually blown the highlights. The problem is that you can easily get colour ****s if you blow the highlights in the RAW processor, even if they were recorded in the the actual RAW file. This is a situation where I would expose to the right by about 1.5 to 2 stops (The exact value would depend on your specific camera, and be from the value that would be suggested by an incident lightmeter, or from a spot reading from a grey card in the same light). This should ensure that you have captured detail in the shadow areas, but without blowing the highlights. In process 2012 I would suggest trying setting Highlights at -100 and shadows at +100 and seeing what you get. I find that by exposing as far as I can for the shadows the final result ends up with the shadows displayed at about the level they were when they came "out of camera" while the highlights are pulled down. This saves having to introduce noise from pushing the shadows if you expose for the highlights.

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cicopo
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Mar 18, 2013 11:30 |  #22

It's entirely probable that I may have blown out some of the white highlights, but as of yet I haven't worked on anything in any of the samples except trying to get the sky to look correct. Once I'm convinced the sky looks believable (when viewed in other programs) I'll move on to the rest of the image. I will try your suggestions tonight on that photo & see how well I do. As for the photos displayed they are from a 1D4 using the 100-400 L EXCEPT the Snowbird shots. They were with a 28-300 L IS.


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Mar 18, 2013 12:30 |  #23

But you can't "just work on the sky" in isolation. You need to get everything working together. Altering the WB will have an effect on the exposure. Adjust the white/black points you affect the contrast too. All of the basic controls interact with each other to a greater or lesser amount. Changing the picture style in LR/ACR has a huge effect on all of the basic settings, especially colour/contrast. The majority seem to go with setting the camera calibration then working in a generally top down fashion (in ACR thats left to right and top to bottom).

Specifically with regard to those aviation images you will generally struggle to get a deep blue saturated sky, to get a decent exposure of the aircraft you will not be able to reduce the sky brightness enough. About the only time a real deep blue is achivable is if you are pointing the camera nearly straight up. Also on a day when there is a clear blue sky you still need a WB setting around 6500K to get the aircraft looking good. That tends to kill the blue in the sky, it will all depend on the atmospherics too of course but it is not surprising that mostly you tend to see pale blues not deep ones.

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cicopo
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Mar 18, 2013 13:30 |  #24

Pale blues are OK compared to a purple tint. Now that I've got it out of the process I still need to find out why my workspace in CS 6 has the greenish tint across every area of the photos I open. It's a new installation & something's wrong but at least I still have CS 4 available on the same computer.

Back when I installed & set up CS 4 I was laid up from an operation so I took the lessons from Lynda.com and used their guidelines before getting into the program. In the meantime I've pretty much forgot that part of the deal but as far as I can see I've set the preferences the same in both versions.


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Mar 18, 2013 14:47 |  #25

cicopo wrote in post #15728532 (external link)
Pale blues are OK compared to a purple tint. Now that I've got it out of the process I still need to find out why my workspace in CS 6 has the greenish tint across every area of the photos I open. It's a new installation & something's wrong but at least I still have CS 4 available on the same computer.

Back when I installed & set up CS 4 I was laid up from an operation so I took the lessons from Lynda.com and used their guidelines before getting into the program. In the meantime I've pretty much forgot that part of the deal but as far as I can see I've set the preferences the same in both versions.

One question if I may. Is your monitor colour managed? I.e. - Do you use a calibration device to be certain that what you see is actually what its doing?


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cicopo
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Mar 18, 2013 15:24 |  #26

No calibration device. I downloaded & printed test images & matched the monitor as best as I could to match the printer output, both color & brightness wise. I'm still more than satisfied with my prints & check them against what I'm seeing on the monitor often. (I spent a lot of time on that, then had to do it all again when I built a new computer with a better video card ).


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Mar 18, 2013 15:31 |  #27

cicopo wrote in post #15728922 (external link)
No calibration device. I downloaded & printed test images & matched the monitor as best as I could to match the printer output, both color & brightness wise. I'm still more than satisfied with my prints & check them against what I'm seeing on the monitor often. (I spent a lot of time on that, then had to do it all again when I built a new computer with a better video card ).

Can you post a screen shot of a CS6 window that shows this tint alongside of a DPP window that does not?


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cicopo
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Mar 18, 2013 16:53 |  #28

I'm not sure whether I can but will try. I think I've only done a screenshot once over the years.


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Mar 18, 2013 17:25 |  #29

cicopo wrote in post #15729303 (external link)
I'm not sure whether I can but will try. I think I've only done a screenshot once over the years.

What OS are you using? Windows Vista and later has a nifty "Snipping Tool" that makes it quick -- have your window open, type in "Snipping Tools" in the command line, and then you just drag and "snip" the relevant part of your screen, Save the resulting jpeg, upload here, and you've got it!


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cicopo
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Mar 18, 2013 18:12 |  #30

I Googled it & it was very easy in XP Just had to hold down the alt key & then the Print Screen key. Capture went right into Picasa & was easy to find & make this. The problem is no longer between DPP & CS, that's solved but this is what I get when opening ANY jpg in CS 4 vs opening it in CS 6.

IMAGE: http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8gfHKnnBLGs/UUeeGKJDQGE/AAAAAAABJKE/DzJQAgLvRPo/s1024-c/Collages.jpg

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Colour shift when using CS6 vs DPP.
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