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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 19 Mar 2013 (Tuesday) 17:58
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What is your lens micro adjust technique?

 
starkyrulz
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Mar 20, 2013 19:09 |  #16

Dot Tune :-)


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samsen
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Mar 20, 2013 19:28 |  #17

Will try.


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imonkey89
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Mar 20, 2013 21:10 |  #18

Nightdiver13 wrote in post #15737393 (external link)
What's spot focus?

It's a smaller focus point inside the normal focus point. It allows for more precise focus.


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Mar 20, 2013 21:32 |  #19

imonkey89 wrote in post #15737970 (external link)
It's a smaller focus point inside the normal focus point. It allows for more precise focus.

Weird never heard of that. Which camera? Can you explain how to enable this?


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Scrumhalf
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Mar 20, 2013 21:34 |  #20

7d has it. My old t3i did not.


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If I don't get the shots I want with the gear I have, the only optics I need to examine is the mirror on the bathroom wall. The root cause will be there.

  
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Invertalon
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Mar 20, 2013 21:41 |  #21

I used FoCal until Dot-Tune came out and is much more reliable/accurate/quic​k...

If the lens is out of wack though I send to Canon... Like my 70-200 II and 1.4x III combo was 0W but +12T... Even though the lens alone was +4W and +3T... So I send to them and came back at around 0 for both ends with extender.


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imonkey89
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Mar 21, 2013 03:10 |  #22

Aressem wrote in post #15738041 (external link)
Weird never heard of that. Which camera? Can you explain how to enable this?

My 7D and 5DIII have it. Not sure what others do. I would assume 1DX.


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Scrumhalf
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Mar 21, 2013 03:13 |  #23

I didn't watch the video on the Fred Miranda post, but read the procedure. For a zoom lens, would this procedure need to be done at more than once focal length (or at least at the extremes of the zooms) and then the average of the values be taken to dial in the actual adjustment?


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If I don't get the shots I want with the gear I have, the only optics I need to examine is the mirror on the bathroom wall. The root cause will be there.

  
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mitchrapp
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Mar 21, 2013 05:08 |  #24

rndman wrote in post #15737555 (external link)
Not yet. Sometime in future..

Unless it is hidden somewhere on their website.

As pulsar123 stated, you have to use the nightlies.




  
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Mar 21, 2013 07:40 |  #25

I use my own focusing chart and get my lenses squared away with that, then when shooting real scenes, I do a final check and adjust in the field.

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ekinnyc
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Mar 21, 2013 09:13 |  #26

how would you use DotTune with a zoom? AF at wide, tele, and middle? so for a 24-70 - at 24, 70, 50?


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pulsar123
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Mar 21, 2013 09:17 |  #27

Here is my recent review of dot-tune + Magic Lantern:

https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1280584

For zoom lenses, there is no good solution. The common advice is to set MFA for the longest FL, as DoF there is smallest, but it is far from perfect. At least one camera (5D3) allows you to set separately both short and long FL ends.


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Scrumhalf
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Mar 23, 2013 22:06 |  #28

So, if I wanted to run Dottune on my 100-400, I would have to set the lens at a distance of 50 x 400 = 20m? Well, I guess I will need to take this into the parking lot tomorrow.


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If I don't get the shots I want with the gear I have, the only optics I need to examine is the mirror on the bathroom wall. The root cause will be there.

  
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Mar 23, 2013 23:14 |  #29

Using live view manual focus, I snap a picture of text at the distance and lighting condition I used the most. This is my base standard picture to compare with AF. (focus with live view at max magnification)
Take the same picture using AF. Micro-adjust to get the AF as or near as sharp as the manual focus one. All this is done with the LCD screen. (you will find that in most cases, MF is sharper than AF. simply because the MA changes in large incremental steps where as MF has a more finer adjustment.


I do this now for all my lens over any other technique. The reasons are:
1. With MF, you will know how sharp the lens can be. At center, at corners, at top and bottom.
2. It is an easy concept and now it is a simple task of replicating this sharpness with AF.
Once you have MA your lens (for center, wide open), you may find that different lighting conditions, different distances, different f-stops may affect the accuracy of the autofocus, when you finally go out shooting. You will start to notice that maybe one corner is sharp and the other corner is not as sharp and the lens is probably de-centered (no wonder the AF can't be consistant) You will finally notice if you have a lens in need of tuning by the lens maker. Or that all of your lens have the same issues, which then points to the camera.


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dave_bass5
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Mar 24, 2013 09:13 |  #30

Having been using the moire test for a few months, and seeing that I don't really need much MFA I tried FoCal on there consecutive tests (just using TurboCal) I got the same results with my 24-70MKII. -2 on the long and wide end. Two days later, did it agin and got -2 wide end and +5 on the long end. Tried again, got -4 on wide end and -2 on long end. I gave up. Set it all back to 0 and ran the moire test. Back to not needing anything.
After shooting a target with -2 and then + 2 I'm struggling to see any difference.

The Dot tune method looks a bit long winded but I'm sure it works.


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