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FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos RAW, Post Processing & Printing 
Thread started 14 Jan 2006 (Saturday) 11:02
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Need help with post processing this photo

 
Bob_A
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Jan 14, 2006 13:46 |  #16

Here's my attempt:

I used the same approach as Mike since I prefer to use Curves white and black droppers for correcting color problems like this. For the white dropper I picked the piece of (hopefully) white paper near the wall above the cats back, and for the black dropper I searched around for the darkest shadow and picked that. I then sharpened it a bit using USM at 200, 0.25,0 .

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tzalman
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Jan 14, 2006 14:36 |  #17

To go back to your original problem - Canon's Auto WB is not very good with tungston light, in fact it sucks. The orange light reflected from the walls further complicated matters. There are two solutions: 1.) If shooting jpgs, create a custom WB. Read the manual to learn how. 2.) If shooting RAW, the WB will only be determined later during post-processing, so you can make it whatever you like at that time. This task can be simplified by either making a CWB, as in 1., or shooting a white or neutral grey card to serve as a referrence.
Elie


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yb98
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Jan 14, 2006 14:39 |  #18

why not turn it to black and white ?

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blue_max
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Jan 14, 2006 14:41 as a reply to  @ tzalman's post |  #19

You should consider altering your signature to allow editing. There is a purpose made selection that allows this. You have had a few edits that technically should not be allowed.

It's a rule that is easy to miss, but probably needs bringing to the fore in this thread for the benefit of all.

Graham


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watchcaddy
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Jan 14, 2006 14:53 as a reply to  @ blue_max's post |  #20

blue_max wrote:
You should consider altering your signature to allow editing. There is a purpose made selection that allows this. You have had a few edits that technically should not be allowed.

It's a rule that is easy to miss, but probably needs bringing to the fore in this thread for the benefit of all.

Graham

I am sorry but I don't quite understand this rule and what it is suppose to do. Please execuse me for being new. If you can, please show me how to change this. Thank you.


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watchcaddy
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Jan 14, 2006 14:54 as a reply to  @ Bob_A's post |  #21

Bob_A wrote:
Here's my attempt:

I used the same approach as Mike since I prefer to use Curves white and black droppers for correcting color problems like this. For the white dropper I picked the piece of (hopefully) white paper near the wall above the cats back, and for the black dropper I searched around for the darkest shadow and picked that. I then sharpened it a bit using USM at 200, 0.25,0 .

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HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO

I am sorry, but what is USM? And where can I adjust it? Thank you.


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Bob_A
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Jan 14, 2006 15:23 |  #22

USM = Unsharp Mask. From the top menubar in Photoshop choose Filters -> Sharpen -> Unsharp Mask. A good starting point for a full sized image from the camera is Amount = 300%, Radius = 0.3, Threshold = 0. However this will oversharpen small images posted on the web which is why 200, 0.25-0.3, 0 works better.

Also, you can add the words "Image Editing OK" on the left hand side under your name by setting the option in User CP found at the top left hand side of ever page in the forum. No one is supposed to edit anyones images unless they get permission first, which is why I asked you for it earlier :)


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watchcaddy
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Jan 14, 2006 16:04 as a reply to  @ Bob_A's post |  #23

Bob_A wrote:
USM = Unsharp Mask. From the top menubar in Photoshop choose Filters -> Sharpen -> Unsharp Mask. A good starting point for a full sized image from the camera is Amount = 300%, Radius = 0.3, Threshold = 0. However this will oversharpen small images posted on the web which is why 200, 0.25-0.3, 0 works better.

Also, you can add the words "Image Editing OK" on the left hand side under your name by setting the option in User CP found at the top left hand side of ever page in the forum. No one is supposed to edit anyones images unless they get permission first, which is why I asked you for it earlier :)

Thank you! It works great! Also, thank you for the explaination of the rule.


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watchcaddy
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Jan 14, 2006 16:06 as a reply to  @ tzalman's post |  #24

tzalman wrote:
To go back to your original problem - Canon's Auto WB is not very good with tungston light, in fact it sucks. The orange light reflected from the walls further complicated matters. There are two solutions: 1.) If shooting jpgs, create a custom WB. Read the manual to learn how. 2.) If shooting RAW, the WB will only be determined later during post-processing, so you can make it whatever you like at that time. This task can be simplified by either making a CWB, as in 1., or shooting a white or neutral grey card to serve as a referrence.
Elie


Thank you. I will read more to learn how to do it. Thank you.


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Palladium
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Jan 14, 2006 16:28 as a reply to  @ watchcaddy's post |  #25

I reset the light and dark points in curves using the threshold as a guide.

The points I used:
Dark an area around the cat's left front elbow.
Light an area around the Cat's Bell
Grey an area of the Canon Printer box that grey.

Sharpened only the Cat's face & reduced to 800 wide, a couple of clicks & a couple of seconds.

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Palladium
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Jan 14, 2006 16:33 |  #26

Althought now that I look at the reduced 800 wide version I probally should have worked on an 800 wide image to begin with - the sharpening effect was more effective at full size.




  
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