Questions on Night Photography

So Im ready to go shoot some night photography around the city where i live, ive done some research and watched some youtube vids. I have my tripod and shutter release trigger cable...but i have 2 questions...

1. should i use live view when shooting night time photography or long exposures?
2. I know that in low light its sometimes hard for your camera to focus so you need to use manual focus, how exactly should i do that? and what metering mode should i use?

thanks
Steve

You need to be more specific of what you mean by 'Night Photography'

I guess he means like architecture/landscape at night.
I always use Liveview screen. Put focus on Infinite. And put a timer to 10 seconds(not the exposure but the selftimer).
Aperture shouldn't go below and above F8.0 - F11. (at least for APSC and Fullframe sensors).

Yes I mean night photography like shooting city buildings, bridges etc
But thanks for the reply guys
Steve

Steve Sanchez Photography wrote in post #15788013
So Im ready to go shoot some night photography around the city where i live, ive done some research and watched some youtube vids. I have my tripod and shutter release trigger cable...but i have 2 questions...

1. should i use live view when shooting night time photography or long exposures?
2. I know that in low light its sometimes hard for your camera to focus so you need to use manual focus, how exactly should i do that? and what metering mode should i use?

thanks
Steve

Spot meter if you can find any mid tones. But the truth is for night shooting your meter may not be of much use. You are essentially shooting highlights and shadows and your meter is designed to measure middle tones (which may not be present). Your best bet is to take a test shot and then look at where your highlights fall on the histogram. It may be okay to let them blow out as you might want pure white in the brightest part of the scene.

Just use live view and histogram. Doesn't matter what metering mode you use...

Steve Sanchez Photography wrote in post #15789779
Yes I mean night photography like shooting city buildings, bridges etc
But thanks for the reply guys
Steve

I have had no problems using my Canon DSLR cameras on aperture priority with auto exposure bracketing and -1 stop exposure compensation. Having the Canon on burst mode and using either a remote (corded or cordless) release or using the self-timer to mitigate any camera movement due to your finger pressing the shutter button. This system provides 3-exposures (one at the meter reading, one at 1-stop below the reading and one at 2-stops below) every time you trip the shutter. The camera will then stop shooting until the next time the shutter is tripped.

I will frequently use mirror lock up when mounted on a tripod.

Of course, a tripod is usually needed for night shots but, occasionally, such as in these shots of Hong Kong Harbor at night, I can hand hold the camera.

IMAGE LINK: http://rpcrowe.smugmug​.com …682538&k=2rC3TQ​G&lb=1&s=A

IMAGE LINK: http://rpcrowe.smugmug​.com …069848&k=XMvSQt​X&lb=1&s=A

IMAGE LINK: http://rpcrowe.smugmug​.com …069435&k=JCMHhC​C&lb=1&s=A

Try to use as much good technique as possible. Tripod, cable release, mirror up (if your camera has this feature), live view, and base ISO. Also if possible try taking pictures during the "blue hour" instead of when it is completely dark outside.

Steve Sanchez Photography wrote in post #15788013
1. should i use live view when shooting night time photography or long exposures?
2. I know that in low light its sometimes hard for your camera to focus so you need to use manual focus, how exactly should i do that?

Yes, use live view. Compose the shot in live view, then go to max magnification in live view and fine tune your focus. Take the shot with your cable release while in live view - no need to use mirror lock up in that case since the mirror is already up.

Steve Sanchez Photography wrote in post #15788013
... and what metering mode should i use?

The camera may not always be able to accurately meter the scene. Bracket your shots if you are relying on the camera's meter. An alternative is use the method below. I have found this to be most reliable, especially for long exposures in BULB mode.

Shoot RAW and expose the shot so that the histogram is as far to the right as possible with minimal clipping. I say "minimal" because the lights in the scene will almost always blow out. You can dial back down the exposure (to your taste) later in post-processing. This method ensures that you have captured maximum data.