dr_who wrote:
1) Which one is better USM or smart sharpen? Seems USM is mentioned a lot more than smart sharpen. What is a basic guide line setting for USM for RAW image, landscape.
2) I'm just starting photography as a hobby, and I always used auto exposure. This is good? What are some situation to use manual and are there some basic guide lines? In lots of photos I took with Canon G3 in raw, photoshop raw did a auto -1.5 exposure and +75 brightness, does that suggest something? (it was an overcast day with AE, auto WB, subject mostly in shadow or at least no direct light).
I think that Smart Sharpen IS Unsharpen Mask when it's on Gausian Blur. I use it like that about 99% of the time. Every once in awhile I'll try Motion Blur if I can figure out which way the subject is moving. It works some times and others not so much.
I'd suggest that you try to use Manual until you understand what's going on. With Manual YOU will be in control, not the camera. Both Shutterspeed and Aperature will affect exposure but Shutterspeed will freeze or blur the subject and YOU make the decisions. Aperture will affect the depth of field and to a certain extent lens sharpness. What to you choose? A fast Shutterspeed and a wide open Aperture; or a slower shutterspeed and more depth of field with the aperture?
Not to flame you but if you don't understand this try to take a course on basic photography.
Now once you understand it's perfectly OK to use one of the Automatic settings like Tv (shutterspeed priority but called Tv because in Canon speak it's "Time Value") or Av (Aperture priority). The reason I use Av and to a lesser extent Tv is because they are quicker than I am. The sun goes behind a cloud and the camera reacts, while I'm turning dials. But I understand what they are doing and I keep a close eye on their suggested exposure.
That brings us to the program settings which are for people who have no clue. The camera does all of the work and takes away all of the control. I've had a 10D for three years and a 20D for just over a year and they've NEVER had a program exposure selected. I just want more control over the camera and subsequent images. One of these days someone will ask me how one of the funny esoteric Programs settings works & I'll have to tell them that I no clue!
Don't be too concerned about what Photoshop tells you in regard to what the "correct" exposure is. Check your histogram (I assume you can on that camera) and make sure that your exposure is close - the mountain's peak is more or less in the middle, and then you'll be fine. You do want to be as close as you can, but if you can make a good print out of it how bad could it have been?
"There's never time to do it right. But there's always time to do it over."
Canon 5D, 50D; 16-35 f2.8L, 24-105 f4L IS, 50 f1.4, 100 f2.8 Macro, 70-200 f2.8L, 300mm f2.8L IS.