Strobe / Monolight hyper sync

Looking for a strobe with the following features:

- Can sync at 1/500 on 5D2
- pocket wizard compatible

I'm trying to freeze action while overpowering the midday sun.

Use an ND filter and shoot at 1/160

It's the only way I could figure out how to do it with a strobe.

I am curious if someone else has a better answer.

I can sync my Promaster 300C's at up to 1/8000 using my Phottix Odins. It's not true HSS, and power output drops dramatically.

Going a bit above x-sync has worked out for me pretty well. I was shooting a business person in their office, and didn't want the window to blow out. Increased shutter to 1/640, and upped the power on the strobe. Worked great.

chris_holtmeier wrote in post #15865483
I can sync my Promaster 300C's at up to 1/8000 using my Phottix Odins. It's not true HSS, and power output drops dramatically.

Chris,

Do you know if the reason this works with the Promaster is because of the slow speeds of the strobe?

I made this post thinking getting an Einstein would be a bad idea since you can really only use it with hyper sync at full power, but I can't think of a better alternative that wouldn't cost $5,000, like using eight 580ex ii's, lol.

I'd only ever need hyper sync every once in awhile so I guess I can make do with the Einstein.

Unless someone jumps into this thread and blows my mind.

Here is a hack for HHS w strobes and PW:

http://www.prophotonut​.com …r-mobil-and-canon-5d-mk2/

I have personally used it up to 1/2000th on my 5DmkII with an AB800.

The PW MiniTT1 and 5 are reported to simulate HSS with studio strobes:

http://www.pocketwizar​d.com …/36/TT1-C/features#AutoHS

Heath wrote in post #15865520
Chris,

Do you know if the reason this works with the Promaster is because of the slow speeds of the strobe?

While I have read a couple of articles supporting this theory, my statement was based on personal experimentation.

LostArk wrote in post #15865544
Unless someone jumps into this thread and blows my mind.

Phottix have some new firmware for the Odin coming any day now that is pretty sweet.

You are up against it though with the 5DII, big sensor and slow shutter are the hardest to get a result. Then the Einstein is very fast.

If anything is possible though, the Odin will make the most of it (very soon).
.

You need a really powerful strobe with a slow duration. Look at the PCB white lightning 3200, or maybe two white lightning ultra zap 1600's.

LostArk wrote in post #15865449
Looking for a strobe with the following features:

- Can sync at 1/500 on 5D2
- pocket wizard compatible

I'm trying to freeze action while overpowering the midday sun.

Isn't the flash sync speed for the Canon 5D Mk. II already limited to 1/200 second?

LostArk wrote in post #15865449
Looking for a strobe with the following features:

- Can sync at 1/500 on 5D2
- pocket wizard compatible

I'm trying to freeze action while overpowering the midday sun.

Freezing action while overpowering the sun with a strobe is an oxymoron.

Hyper Sync (PW proprietary technology) manipulates the FP sync signal to optimize output from a studio strobe to extend the shutter speed above x-sync. One aspect of that is to use the tail of the strobe's light pulse as a continuos light source. That means the better performing strobes are those with the longest t.1 and t.5 durations. That is counter to the action stopping requirement.

High Speed Sync is Canon's term for using rapidly pulsing speedlite firing to emulate the Flat Power (FP) flash bulbs used with focal plane shutters. The bulb was designed for a long, constant output flash that lasted long enough for the shutter curtains to travel across the film plane. HSS does the same thing with a speedlite. Two compromises, a) much less light on the subject since the energy usually spent for a single burst is now used for multiple "mini" flashes over a longer time period. Which leads to b) longer flash duration. The shutter speed is now responsible for action stopping.

The Mid-day sun just adds the complication of requiring even more power from the stone/speedlite(s).

Best light I've found so far is the Cheetahstand CL-180. The CL-360 will be even better when it arrives.

Here's a shot from last Saturday. Not action stopping but it did work well with a strong sun from the back.

dmward wrote in post #15868228
Freezing action while overpowering the sun with a strobe is an oxymoron.

Hyper Sync (PW proprietary technology) manipulates the FP sync signal to optimize output from a studio strobe to extend the shutter speed above x-sync. One aspect of that is to use the tail of the strobe's light pulse as a continuos light source. That means the better performing strobes are those with the longest t.1 and t.5 durations. That is counter to the action stopping requirement.

Correct, which is why I believe I will need a Ranger RX (speed version) for my purposes.

LostArk wrote in post #15868258
Correct, which is why I believe I will need a Ranger RX (speed version) for my purposes.

No. It has a relatively fast flash duration, but as power is reduced the duration gets longer. And if you want to extend the shutter beyond sync speed you are caught in the constant light source slowdown.

LostArk wrote in post #15868258
Correct, which is why I believe I will need a Ranger RX (speed version) for my purposes.

What you feel you need is actually an extremely powerful constantly-on light source. Think WWII searchlights, for example.

SkipD wrote in post #15868790
What you feel you need is actually an extremely powerful constantly-on light source. Think WWII searchlights, for example.

That would work. The trick will portability, both light and power.

I think they mounted some on trucks.