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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 25 Apr 2013 (Thursday) 07:58
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Strobe / Monolight hyper sync

 
ksbal
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Apr 29, 2013 12:08 |  #31

Ok.. I will try this out when I get to be home and the stinking sun is out at noon (we've had rain and cloudy cold days here for-ever!)

Here is the strobe in FP mode (it has one, really!) and it will also Hyper Sync at full power and a smidge down using YN-622's.

Indoor example below, I will create an outdoor example when the weather and sun cooperate.

IMAGE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8385/8582958750_b7529cac75.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …ddenrockranch/8​582958750/  (external link)
billyjumpweb0726 (external link) by Hidden Rock Ranch (external link), on Flickr

Exif:
Camera Canon EOS 50D
Exposure 0.001 sec (1/1000)
Aperture f/3.5
Focal Length 50 mm
ISO Speed 200
Exposure Bias 0 EV
Flash On, Fired

Godox/Flashpoint r2 system, plus some canon stuff.

  
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dmward
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Apr 29, 2013 23:54 |  #32

bobbyz wrote in post #15879068 (external link)
All I wanted to see was real fulll length shots with modifiers to show how well a flash/strobe does outside where HSS/HyperSync is useful. Everyone talks I can sync at xyz speed but then don't show shots and some other folks start believe with being able to sync at those higher ss they will be able to lower ambient, which is not the case most of the time. That is all.

Bobby,
As you've pointed out several times, there are people proporting or asking about how to do the impossible. The image I posted in 11 on this thread illustrates that HSS can be used to light a subject when they are in bright sun. Will it stop action? Not unless the action is slow enough for the shutter speed to stop it. Are there situations where the camera can't make the proper exposure? Sure. ISO 100, 1/8000 shutter is as all one can get out of a Canon. If that means the aperture is stopped down from wide open so be it. Time for ND filters if you have to have F1.4.

Fill HSS work at ISO 100, 1/8000? For sure. The amount of light depends on how far the light is from the subject. Just like it does with any constant light source.

There is no magic here. Just basic physics and lighting principles that, I hope, we all learned long ago in our photographic educations.


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dmward
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Apr 30, 2013 13:48 |  #33

Here are two images from a test this morning.
The camera is a 5DIII with 85mm F1.2L settings were F1.4, ISO 50, 1/8000. That resulted in just about 2/3 stop below ambient reading with sunny sky occupying about half the frame.

As you can see in the first image, the subject and the background are under exposed. It was shot at about 11:00a in Chicago. (If you look at the EXIF it will say 10 because I left this camera on standard time.)

Second shot is with CL-180 at Full power in H mode. 19" collapsible octa with a 3" disk and diffusion fabric. The light is about 4 feet from the subject.

The images have no LR processing applied. i.e. all the sliders are neutral and the white balance was set to daylight.

The light was triggered with a YN-622c. The CL-Tx/Rx were used to adjust power.

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dmward
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Apr 30, 2013 14:05 |  #34

Here is a set of images that illustrate power range in H mode.
First image is a pull back showing the CL-180 with standard reflector and diffusion disk. Its about 6 feet from the model. The fingers represent power setting on the light in H mode. i.e. one finger is full, 2 fingers is 1/2, 4 fingers is 1/4. Other images in next post.

Lens was 24 F1.4 L at F1.4, shutter was 1/8000, ISO 50. All Lightroom sliders are 0 WB is Daylight.

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dmward
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Apr 30, 2013 14:28 |  #35

Here are half and quarter power shots;

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ksbal
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Apr 30, 2013 16:01 |  #36

If the darn wind would just calm down a bit.. but I doubt it will for me today, then we are suppose to get snow.. in May... for heavens sake!

Nice examples there David! Looks like the wind is blowing there too!


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dmward
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Apr 30, 2013 23:45 |  #37

ksbal wrote in post #15884002 (external link)
If the darn wind would just calm down a bit.. but I doubt it will for me today, then we are suppose to get snow.. in May... for heavens sake!

Nice examples there David! Looks like the wind is blowing there too!


It was. And its supposed to get cold again as well. I think if Kansas would keep its weather to itself, spring would finally get here. :-)


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ksbal
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May 03, 2013 18:06 |  #38

Ive done a test, but it isn't against full sun.. still cloudy and windy and very cold here. darn it.

And here I was just sure Chicago was known as the windy city, and it was Chicago wind making us cold down here in Oz... :)


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dmward
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May 03, 2013 21:15 |  #39

ksbal wrote in post #15895131 (external link)
...Chicago was known as the windy city...

I have it on good authority that the reference to Chicago as the windy city is a reference to its politics rather than its weather. :-)

As for Hyper Sync. That is a Pocket Wizard trademarked term.

The longer the strobe's t.5 duration the better it will be.

There are strobes coming out of China that have implemented a generic version of rapid cycling used by Canon to provide High Speed Sync.

That is a preferable approach in my opinion.

One that's currently available is the Cheetah Light 180. Pro Master had a monolight available with the capability but its apparently been discontinued.


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DDL
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Jul 06, 2013 10:11 |  #40

This appears to be another battery powered FP option similar to the Godox/Cheetah lights.

http://www.phottixstor​e.com …ed-400w-studio-light.html (external link)

I might try the Cl/Godox 360 as it appears to be the least risk to my money during the ordering process.


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dmward
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Jul 06, 2013 10:24 |  #41

DDL wrote in post #16096152 (external link)
This appears to be another battery powered FP option similar to the Godox/Cheetah lights.

http://www.phottixstor​e.com …ed-400w-studio-light.html (external link)

I might try the Cl/Godox 360 as it appears to be the least risk to my money during the ordering process.

This isn't a bare bulb flash. Its more a battery powered monolight.

It uses a circular flash tube with a reflector behind it similar to monolights.

It has less common modifier mount.

Phottix has a good reputation. Not certain whether they manufacture the light or are reseller.

Elv (Flash Havoc) may have more info. Nice t. speeds, I presume t.5


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elv
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Jul 06, 2013 10:47 |  #42

dmward wrote in post #16096180 (external link)
This isn't a bare bulb flash. Its more a battery powered monolight.

It uses a circular flash tube with a reflector behind it similar to monolights.

It has less common modifier mount.

Phottix has a good reputation. Not certain whether they manufacture the light or are reseller.

Elv (Flash Havoc) may have more info. Nice t. speeds, I presume t.5

This is a Cononmark flash, of which there are many variations (likely the most popular flash sold). I don't know what the FP mode refers to there, I don't think is its HSS.
.


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DDL
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Jul 06, 2013 10:55 |  #43

This was one of the small portable battery powered flash/strobes I was looking at to supplement my Speedlites.

It appears the Cononmark does some form of high speed sync.

http://www.lightingrum​ours.com …fers-high-speed-sync-2633 (external link)


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dmward
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Jul 06, 2013 11:36 |  #44

DDL wrote in post #16096244 (external link)
This was one of the small portable battery powered flash/strobes I was looking at to supplement my Speedlites.

It appears the Cononmark does some form of high speed sync.

http://www.lightingrum​ours.com …fers-high-speed-sync-2633 (external link)

Phottik version may be older version. Pictures show different stand mount and a Halogen modeling light.

The AK4.0 shows an LED modeling light. And the 3G remote isn't mentioned in the Phottix specs which I think is a key capability.

This comparison, makes the Phottix much less desirable.


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abbadon31
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Jul 06, 2013 13:10 |  #45

dmward wrote in post #15868228 (external link)
Freezing action while overpowering the sun with a strobe is an oxymoron.

Hyper Sync (PW proprietary technology) manipulates the FP sync signal to optimize output from a studio strobe to extend the shutter speed above x-sync. One aspect of that is to use the tail of the strobe's light pulse as a continuos light source. That means the better performing strobes are those with the longest t.1 and t.5 durations. That is counter to the action stopping requirement.

High Speed Sync is Canon's term for using rapidly pulsing speedlite firing to emulate the Flat Power (FP) flash bulbs used with focal plane shutters. The bulb was designed for a long, constant output flash that lasted long enough for the shutter curtains to travel across the film plane. HSS does the same thing with a speedlite. Two compromises, a) much less light on the subject since the energy usually spent for a single burst is now used for multiple "mini" flashes over a longer time period. Which leads to b) longer flash duration. The shutter speed is now responsible for action stopping.

The Mid-day sun just adds the complication of requiring even more power from the stone/speedlite(s).

Best light I've found so far is the Cheetahstand CL-180. The CL-360 will be even better when it arrives.

Here's a shot from last Saturday. Not action stopping but it did work well with a strong sun from the back.
IMG NOTICE: [NOT AN IMAGE URL, NOT RENDERED INLINE]


Oh My

Why is the guy in the dark


I AM SHOM

  
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Strobe / Monolight hyper sync
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