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Thread started 05 May 2013 (Sunday) 20:43
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LP-E4 battery calibration, aftermarket recommendations?

 
kenjancef
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May 05, 2013 20:43 |  #1

Out of 3 LP-E4 batteries I have, 2 of them have asked to be calibrated immediately after doing a calibration, so I am assuming that they are heading south... looks like they still hold a charge, but not sure what up with the calibration. I have a 1D3 and 1D4, and the 2 batteries say the same thing on both bodies.

So, in looking for replacements, I see the knock-off stuff, and the OEM ones. Does anyone have any experience with aftermarket LP-E4's? Do I run the risk of ruining the camera with aftermarket batteries? Any one aftermarket brand better than another?

Thanks!!


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John ­ from ­ PA
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May 05, 2013 20:54 |  #2

No direct experience with the LP-E4 but I tnink the general concensus would be SterlingTek presents the least issues.




  
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kenjancef
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May 05, 2013 20:57 as a reply to  @ John from PA's post |  #3

Heard people say they are good, but checked their website, no mention of any LP-E4 equivalent, unless I missed it...


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primoz
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May 06, 2013 03:02 |  #4

Why would you ruin your camera with 3rd party batteries? They are batteries only afterall ;)
Personally I'm using DSTE (http://www.ebay.de …_trksid=p3984.m​1497.l2649 (external link)) for about $25 each (these ones on link are 2 for $50 and free shipping, but it's from Hong Kong so it took about 2 weeks to get them). My original went byebye after about 2 years, so these were pretty good option instead of paying 150eur for original one.
But there's one catch... they work just fine on 1dmk4, but 1dx doesn't recognize them. And as far as I saw, there's no 3rd party battery out yet, which would be recognized in 1dx.
Otherwise I have been using 3rd party for years in old 1d, 1dmk2 and now 1dmk4 and never had problems. In fact, they normally last much longer then originals. But I did had to change "cap" and locking mechanism from original 1dmk2 battery to this 3rd party one, since it wasn't really great one. For these DSTE I can't say anything about it, and they look just as good as original ones, except they are 3400mAh instead of 2300mAh of original ones.


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Lowner
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May 06, 2013 03:52 |  #5

I've never heard of "calibrating" batteries!

I have a background in low voltage engineering so might have expected to come across it. What are you doing when you "calibrate"?


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LowriderS10
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May 06, 2013 04:05 |  #6

OP: I wouldn't go jumping the gun on this...if the batteries are performing well, then do what the camera says and calibrate the batteries and forget about it. This is a minor adjustment, not the impending battery apocalypse. Those batteries should serve you well for quite some time to come. By the way, if I were you, I'd either get Canon or something extremely well-reviewed...I always had third-party batteries for my cameras and have been very happy with them. Then I got one for my 1D3, and I never once used it...it didn't fit worth crap, thus jeopardizing the entire camera's weather sealing...no thanks. It's still sitting in a drawer somewhere in Canada, even though I sold the camera 1.5 years ago.

Lowner: It's a 1D thing....my 1D3 had to do it while I owned it...I think it's basically that as the battery grows older, the maximum charge it holds is no longer exactly the same as what it held when new...so, even though it may be fully charged to current capacity, it's only at, let's say 90% original capacity...it's never actually "full" as far as factory specs go, and therefore can lead to inaccurate battery level readings (ie: since the current 100% corresponds to the old 90%, it'll read out 90% charge when, in fact, the battery is 100% charged).

So, the calibration drains the battery completely (setting a baseline for 0% charge) and then charges it fully (setting a baseline for 100%). After this, the camera knows what the new norm for "full" is and can start displaying the charge information accordingly (more accurately).

At least that's how I always understood it...but I could be wrong.


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Lowner
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May 06, 2013 05:05 |  #7

LowriderS10,

Thanks, I've learnt something new here. So its about how the charge level shows on the camera LCD, in reality its calibrating the in-camera levels.


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LowriderS10
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May 06, 2013 07:51 |  #8

Lowner wrote in post #15902087 (external link)
LowriderS10,

Thanks, I've learnt something new here. So its about how the charge level shows on the camera LCD, in reality its calibrating the in-camera levels.

No problem! I'm glad my camera geekery can come in handy every now and again...usually it just bores the hell out of my friends and family. :D

Yeah, as far as I know, it's simply about the % display...I don't think anything is done to the battery except its "empty" and "full" parameters are redefined.


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kenjancef
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May 06, 2013 07:57 |  #9

LowriderS10 wrote in post #15902040 (external link)
OP: I wouldn't go jumping the gun on this...if the batteries are performing well, then do what the camera says and calibrate the batteries and forget about it. This is a minor adjustment, not the impending battery apocalypse. Those batteries should serve you well for quite some time to come. By the way, if I were you, I'd either get Canon or something extremely well-reviewed...I always had third-party batteries for my cameras and have been very happy with them. Then I got one for my 1D3, and I never once used it...it didn't fit worth crap, thus jeopardizing the entire camera's weather sealing...no thanks. It's still sitting in a drawer somewhere in Canada, even though I sold the camera 1.5 years ago.

I think I did jump the gun a bit. I woke up this morning and one of the batteries was finished with it's second calibration, put it in my 1D4, and surprisingly the calibration message was gone. Not sure why it would take 2 times to work, but I''l keep my eye on them. I am doing a second calibration on the second battery now, so I'll see what happens with that one...

The problem is that these batteries are sort of hard to find... and being out of work money is tight. It's hard to drop $120 or so on a battery. I missed an auction on Flea-bay yesterday for an OEM battery by about 10 seconds...


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kenjancef
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May 06, 2013 07:58 |  #10

LowriderS10 wrote in post #15902040 (external link)
Lowner: It's a 1D thing....my 1D3 had to do it while I owned it...I think it's basically that as the battery grows older, the maximum charge it holds is no longer exactly the same as what it held when new...so, even though it may be fully charged to current capacity, it's only at, let's say 90% original capacity...it's never actually "full" as far as factory specs go, and therefore can lead to inaccurate battery level readings (ie: since the current 100% corresponds to the old 90%, it'll read out 90% charge when, in fact, the battery is 100% charged).

So, the calibration drains the battery completely (setting a baseline for 0% charge) and then charges it fully (setting a baseline for 100%). After this, the camera knows what the new norm for "full" is and can start displaying the charge information accordingly (more accurately).

At least that's how I always understood it...but I could be wrong.

Wow... that's probably the best explanation I've ever heard... :)


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May 06, 2013 09:26 |  #11

kenjancef wrote in post #15902348 (external link)
I think I did jump the gun a bit. I woke up this morning and one of the batteries was finished with it's second calibration, put it in my 1D4, and surprisingly the calibration message was gone. Not sure why it would take 2 times to work, but I''l keep my eye on them. I am doing a second calibration on the second battery now, so I'll see what happens with that one...

The problem is that these batteries are sort of hard to find... and being out of work money is tight. It's hard to drop $120 or so on a battery. I missed an auction on Flea-bay yesterday for an OEM battery by about 10 seconds...

In that case (money being an issue), I'd say calibrate the batteries you have now and see how they work...I bet you won't find any real-world differences in their performance compared to before...I sure didn't! By the way, I can't remember now (this was a while ago), but having to do it twice kind of rings a bell...I think I may have had to do that as well...

kenjancef wrote in post #15902350 (external link)
Wow... that's probably the best explanation I've ever heard... :)

Haha...sweet, thanks! :)


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kenjancef
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May 06, 2013 20:25 as a reply to  @ LowriderS10's post |  #12

Quick update: as one of the affected batteries is now working correctly after the second calibration, one is still not working. It still shows the calibrate message in Battery Info, on both bodies. I will just run the battery down, then calibrate it one more time. I do have 3 batteries for 2 bodies, so I will have 1 replacement if need be...


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primoz
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May 07, 2013 00:58 as a reply to  @ kenjancef's post |  #13

I just gave up with calibration on such batteries. I used them as long as they worked and that's it. I tried calibrating it 5 or 6 times, but it didn't change anything, and it still requested calibration right after it was already calibrated. I used them as long as they were working normally, and then went and buy new ones.


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May 07, 2013 01:19 |  #14

John from PA wrote in post #15901241 (external link)
No direct experience with the LP-E4 but I tnink the general concensus would be SterlingTek presents the least issues.

SterlingTek has not released a replacement LP-E4, I have two from Wasabi Power and they seem to work well, including communication with the camera and charger.




  
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May 07, 2013 02:05 |  #15

So, would I be right in assuming this is similar to the Refresh function on the Maha 9000 charger, or the same function on my old Canon NC-E3 charger - but with the additional tweak of resetting the on-battery chip? I do like the additional Battery Info on the 5DII compared to the crudity of the original 5D read-out.


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LP-E4 battery calibration, aftermarket recommendations?
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