Q: Stabilization - high(er) shutter speeds

I was poking around on the 'net, read something that I thought was interesting.
Should have bookmarked it, but failed to do so. So, I thought I would run it past you folks here (I trust the info I get on this forum as opposed to some others)

In a nutshell: It was stated not to use stabilization at higher shutter speeds, due to a frequency effect (forget the name of it) introduced by the stabilization motor

Has anyone heard of this?

Claimed it could affect the sharpness / focus at the time the shutter is tripped.

I normally leave the stabilization turned on, even if I'm shooting past the reciprocal
(is that the right word?) of the focal length ( i.e. 1/200th for 200mm) as sometimes I shoot things in varying lighting conditions (someone in / out of a follow spot, heavily shaded areas outdoor, etc)

Should I be switching off stabilization once I get into lit areas where I can up the shutter speeds? Might be easier when I'm outdoors, but indoors, at a play or concert, I'm pretty certain I will forget to do so...

thanks!

Make your life simple and just leave it on at all times. OK, some lenses need it to be turned off on a tripod, but, I believe not yours. If in doubt - do your own test. Most usually the best answer. Gene

billinvegas wrote in post #15928362
I was poking around on the 'net, read something that I thought was interesting.
Should have bookmarked it, but failed to do so. So, I thought I would run it past you folks here (I trust the info I get on this forum as opposed to some others)

In a nutshell: It was stated not to use stabilization at higher shutter speeds, due to a frequency effect (forget the name of it) introduced by the stabilization motor

Has anyone heard of this?

Claimed it could affect the sharpness / focus at the time the shutter is tripped.

I normally leave the stabilization turned on, even if I'm shooting past the reciprocal
(is that the right word?) of the focal length ( i.e. 1/200th for 200mm) as sometimes I shoot things in varying lighting conditions (someone in / out of a follow spot, heavily shaded areas outdoor, etc)

Should I be switching off stabilization once I get into lit areas where I can up the shutter speeds? Might be easier when I'm outdoors, but indoors, at a play or concert, I'm pretty certain I will forget to do so...

thanks!

I never turn IS off unless I am doing long exposures on a tripod.

some people like to say that the IS needs a second to spool up...and if a shot is taken in between that time it'll be blurry because of the IS...

I'm not sure I really believe that...of course, someone could post a pic to prove me wrong...

I only turn it off if I'm on a tripod

Dre, what kind of tripod do you have that you can be on it?

billinvegas wrote in post #15928362
I was poking around on the 'net, read something that I thought was interesting.
Should have bookmarked it, but failed to do so. So, I thought I would run it past you folks here (I trust the info I get on this forum as opposed to some others)

In a nutshell: It was stated not to use stabilization at higher shutter speeds, due to a frequency effect (forget the name of it) introduced by the stabilization motor

Has anyone heard of this?

Claimed it could affect the sharpness / focus at the time the shutter is tripped.

I normally leave the stabilization turned on, even if I'm shooting past the reciprocal
(is that the right word?) of the focal length ( i.e. 1/200th for 200mm) as sometimes I shoot things in varying lighting conditions (someone in / out of a follow spot, heavily shaded areas outdoor, etc)

Should I be switching off stabilization once I get into lit areas where I can up the shutter speeds? Might be easier when I'm outdoors, but indoors, at a play or concert, I'm pretty certain I will forget to do so...

thanks!

Heard something similar, myself.

Did some tests, and I think it all comes down to; how large you view your images, if you print, if you pan, and how good your holding-technique is.


I was 'brought up' on film, without IS, so maybe my holding-technique is pretty good. So, for me, the biggest difference I've found with IS on/off is in the battery life!


Regards,

Simon

I started a thread on this subject last year as I concluded, from shooting many tennis tournaments, that it is useless to use IS with high shutter speeds. I turn it off with most anything over 1/1000 but do maintain good holding technique.


---------------negatives------

1) A high shutter speed is going to stop motion, including minor hand shake, so you reach a point where IS is pointless for that.

2) Having IS on all the time will drain batteries much faster. This is something to consider when in the field all day.

3) "Initial" focusing with IS on, can cause a slight hesitation as it locks in/on. This can cause you to miss some very quick shots, as with sports. This isn't really noticeable on my Canon 15-85mm lenses but it is very noticeable, hence something to consider, with a Tamron 70-300 Di VC which I have.

It's not an issue if I've already focused on a subject and am holding the shutter, in anticipation of getting a shot. It's only an issue with initial focus...

BTW: I actually had Tamron confirm the above and they do indeed recommend turning off the IS as described. I think I recall Canon stating the same but cannot confirm that... Here is the LINK to my thread with picture examples in post #39.




---------------Positive-----------

There is one positive aspect to using the IS even with high shutter speeds. It will keep the image steady in the viewfinder which can be very beneficial when tracking a fast moving object or long zoom for some...

Good luck,
Ralph

billinvegas wrote in post #15928362
I was poking around on the 'net, read something that I thought was interesting.
Should have bookmarked it, but failed to do so. So, I thought I would run it past you folks here (I trust the info I get on this forum as opposed to some others)

In a nutshell: It was stated not to use stabilization at higher shutter speeds, due to a frequency effect (forget the name of it) introduced by the stabilization motor

Has anyone heard of this?

Claimed it could affect the sharpness / focus at the time the shutter is tripped.

I normally leave the stabilization turned on, even if I'm shooting past the reciprocal
(is that the right word?) of the focal length ( i.e. 1/200th for 200mm) as sometimes I shoot things in varying lighting conditions (someone in / out of a follow spot, heavily shaded areas outdoor, etc)

Should I be switching off stabilization once I get into lit areas where I can up the shutter speeds? Might be easier when I'm outdoors, but indoors, at a play or concert, I'm pretty certain I will forget to do so...

thanks!

Actual images from real stabilized lenses. Fast shutter speeds were used in each case.

Make your life simple and just leave it on at all times.

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bump

billinvegas wrote in post #15928362
I was poking around on the 'net, read something that I thought was interesting.
Should have bookmarked it, but failed to do so. So, I thought I would run it past you folks here (I trust the info I get on this forum as opposed to some others)

In a nutshell: It was stated not to use stabilization at higher shutter speeds, due to a frequency effect (forget the name of it) introduced by the stabilization motor

Has anyone heard of this?

Was it this article?

http://www.bythom.com/​nikon-vr.htm

KirkS518 wrote in post #15929703
Dre, what kind of tripod do you have that you can be on it?

I shudder at the mental visual of HOW he is MOUNTED on the tripod!

I would encourage the OP, and others, to do some testing for themselves on this matter.
There really is nothing wrong with leaving the IS on all the time; however....

Best case scenario:
1) It serves NO purpose with high shutter speeds.
2) It drains the batteries much faster. That may not be an issue for most folks but it is something to consider if in the field and taking a thousand or more shots over a long day.

Worst case scenario:
It can cause you to miss or otherwise get less than desired results with quick shooting due to the IS having to lock on/in.

The following pictures taken with Tamron 70-300 Di VC serve to prove this point. FYI, the first pic is just for reference purposes. The six "comparative" shots (cropped) is what matters.
_______________

The sequential shots taken below were all taken with the same parameters (ISO, Aperture, 1/125 Shutter Speed, Focus set to Manual). They were all hand held using good technique at 300mm and 30ft from subject. The only difference is the images on the left were taken quickly, whereas I allowed the IS to lock on before taking the images on the right.

RESULTS: In each case, the image on the right is unquestionably sharper. The images on the left are unquestionably less sharp because the IS wasn't fast enough to lock on/in before the shot was taken.

If I had used a fast shutter speed, 1/1000 or greater, there would be NO blur that could be noticed. So the point is; you can use IS all the time but above a certain shutter speed it's really useless. It can also be detrimental in some situations.

More pics.

Note: I pressed the shutter quickly with each image on the left. Whereas, I allowed the IS a split second to lock on/in with each comparative image on the right. Focus was the same with all as it was set to manual. I also took each comparative shot immediately after the other in order to maintain the same composure.

If I were forced to take a quick action shot the results would have been the same, less than desirable, at slower shutter speeds. Whereas High Shutter speeds would negate this effect and consequently negates IS.

I always leave mine on. I have not had a problem, that I'm aware of, yet. I don't plan on changing.