Odd issue with 5d3 locking into P mode? Or was it me?

Hi,

I encountered 2 problems while I torture tested my new 5d3 on my last 20+ day trip:

1. Orange bands started appearing horizontally, taking up about 1/4 of the frame in thickness. Went away the next day. I assume this was the shutter breaking or getting stuck, maybe due to the ridiculoud humidity. Anyway, I'll have Canon check this out.

---> and this 2. The Av and Tv modes would not operate correctly. When I push the Q button it indicated that it was in P mode, even though the dial was on Av or Tv. M mode worked as it always did. I never shoot in P mode, so I dunno how it even works, but the shutter speed and aperture keeps changing based on lighting. I guess this is what P does?

After hours of frustration I finally put all settings back to default then started over. After the initial reset, the problem still existed. But then I went though the entire menu changing things back to how I normally have it and the problem dissappeared.

Question: is there a setting somewhere that changes Av and Tv modes to P that I accidentally triggered?

If not, I guess it was a bug or something broke.

Thanks.

Xyclopx wrote in post #15992430
Hi,

I encountered 2 problems while I torture tested my new 5d3 on my last 20+ day trip:

1. Orange bands started appearing horizontally, taking up about 1/4 of the frame in thickness. Went away the next day. I assume this was the shutter breaking or getting stuck, maybe due to the ridiculoud humidity. Anyway, I'll have Canon check this out.

---> and this 2. The Av and Tv modes would not operate correctly. When I push the Q button it indicated that it was in P mode, even though the dial was on Av or Tv. M mode worked as it always did. I never shoot in P mode, so I dunno how it even works, but the shutter speed and aperture keeps changing based on lighting. I guess this is what P does?

After hours of frustration I finally put all settings back to default then started over. After the initial reset, the problem still existed. But then I went though the entire menu changing things back to how I normally have it and the problem dissappeared.

Question: is there a setting somewhere that changes Av and Tv modes to P that I accidentally triggered?

If not, I guess it was a bug or something broke.

Thanks.

Orange bands sounds more like a data corruption problem to me. What cf card were you using? Do you have any samples?

When you are in Av or Tv, the Q menu should definitely show that. P mode alows you to take control of everything but shutter speed and aperture. Sounds like something is wrong with your mode dial...

Sorry that you are having these problems...

NPuter wrote in post #15992787
Orange bands sounds more like a data corruption problem to me. What cf card were you using? Do you have any samples?

When you are in Av or Tv, the Q menu should definitely show that. P mode alows you to take control of everything but shutter speed and aperture. Sounds like something is wrong with your mode dial...

Sorry that you are having these problems...

i'll post pics when i get home. but i doubt it's data corruption. there is one band per pic, usually about 1/4 from top or 1/4 from bottom, but at slightly different places. the bands are more solid in the middle, but they blend smoothly as on the top and bottom sides. i really doubt data corruption as i would expect bytes to be either right or wrong, not in between. and the bands are all exact horizontal. though that's a good thought....

Would a failing shutter really cause colored bands though? That's why I brought up the possibility of data corruption.

Shooting under fluorescent lights will cause orange bands... http://www.learningdsl​rvideo.com/yellow-banding-high-iso/

k, here's one example:

HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO

Looks like fluorescent light to me.

casaaviocar wrote in post #15993973
Looks like fluorescent light to me.

oh wow, i just looked at the link jim_t provided... yup, looks about the same. guess that's what happened huh? ha ha, well, thanks guys. that explains why the next morning it was perfectly fine.

guess we decided the av/tv -> p thing was a problem huh?

Hehehehe..

Xyclopx wrote in post #15993993
oh wow, i just looked at the link jim_t provided... yup, looks about the same. guess that's what happened huh? ha ha, well, thanks guys. that explains why the next morning it was perfectly fine.

guess we decided the av/tv -> p thing was a problem huh?

Yep, that's the fluorescent lighting.

Yes, the tv/av thing was a problem. Does it still happen, or is it now fixed? I wouldn't worry about it if everything is working fine now.

NPuter wrote in post #15994686
Yep, that's the fluorescent lighting.

Yes, the tv/av thing was a problem. Does it still happen, or is it now fixed? I wouldn't worry about it if everything is working fine now.

works fine now. thanks.

Although I do a lot of shooting under florescent lights, I've never seen the bands before. However, WB shift from frame to frame drives me nuts.

I'm going to take a wild guess that the banding occurs due to shutter speeds 'in sync' with the cycle times of a florescent light. Knowing florescent lights flip-flop on/off 60 complete cycles/second, I would have to guess that a shutter speed of 1/30 or 1/60 would be the culprit for the banding. Under florescents, I typically have enough light to shoot at 1/125 or faster, or I simply let the flash provide a 'constant' light.

bratkinson wrote in post #15997887
Although I do a lot of shooting under florescent lights, I've never seen the bands before. However, WB shift from frame to frame drives me nuts.

I'm going to take a wild guess that the banding occurs due to shutter speeds 'in sync' with the cycle times of a florescent light. Knowing florescent lights flip-flop on/off 60 complete cycles/second, I would have to guess that a shutter speed of 1/30 or 1/60 would be the culprit for the banding. Under florescents, I typically have enough light to shoot at 1/125 or faster, or I simply let the flash provide a 'constant' light.

I had originally noticed this problem at f/1.4, so at faster shutter speeds. at the time I tried varying the shutter speeds up to 1/4000 or so, and the faster I went the darker the bands got. that's why originally I thought that it was a shutter problem because I figured moving the shutter faster would make worse the problem. I believe when under 1/100? or so the problem went away.

Acually the problem will disappear at shutter speeds in the sequence 1/120, 1/60, 1/40, 1/30, 1/24(non existent), 1/20, 1/15, etc. The problem will appear at "in-between" SSs such as 1/90, 1/80, 1/50, etc. and anything higher than 1/120(for North America, European numbers are different).

bratkinson wrote in post #15997887
Although I do a lot of shooting under florescent lights, I've never seen the bands before. However, WB shift from frame to frame drives me nuts.

I'm going to take a wild guess that the banding occurs due to shutter speeds 'in sync' with the cycle times of a florescent light. Knowing florescent lights flip-flop on/off 60 complete cycles/second, I would have to guess that a shutter speed of 1/30 or 1/60 would be the culprit for the banding. Under florescents, I typically have enough light to shoot at 1/125 or faster, or I simply let the flash provide a 'constant' light.

Xyclopx wrote in post #15998443
I had originally noticed this problem at f/1.4, so at faster shutter speeds. at the time I tried varying the shutter speeds up to 1/4000 or so, and the faster I went the darker the bands got. that's why originally I thought that it was a shutter problem because I figured moving the shutter faster would make worse the problem. I believe when under 1/100? or so the problem went away.

Yes, I believe faster shutter speeds will exasperate the problem. Florescent lighting is very annoying to shoot under. If you don't get those bands, you get WB shift like stated.