Non-convert RAW images go under exposed when I load to LR

I see my images in Cannon Digital Photo Professional, they look good. If I don't convert to jpg, the RAW image darkens like it is under exposed and if I increase the exposure in LR, it looks bad.

If I convert and save from RAW to jpg and than load into LR, it is fine.

Any idea what I am doing wrong?

Lightroom can't read you're in camera settings so it takes the raw file and applied it's own default settings to it when it renders the image.
DPP can read your in camera preferences and applies them to the raw image. The raw image in DPP should look like the in camera jpeg preview.

Scatterbrained wrote in post #16007360
Lightroom can't read you're in camera settings so it takes the raw file and applied it's own default settings to it when it renders the image.
DPP can read your in camera preferences and applies them to the raw image. The raw image in DPP should look like the in camera jpeg preview.

so convert to tiff before loading to LR?

Or just open in Lr and process it there. The power of Lr is as a raw processor. If you're going to use DPP for processing your raw images you might as well get PsE instead of Lr.

Lightroom - like all other third-party raw converters - is designed to read only a limited subset of your in-camera settings; ISO, aperture, shutter speed, and White Balance. All other camera settings are ignored so if your raw files are appearing darker in Lightroom it means that you probably have a setting like Auto Lighting Optimizer enabled in your camera.

theantiquetiger wrote in post #16007325
I see my images in Cannon Digital Photo Professional, they look good. If I don't convert to jpg, the RAW image darkens like it is under exposed and if I increase the exposure in LR, it looks bad.

If I convert and save from RAW to jpg and than load into LR, it is fine.

Any idea what I am doing wrong?

PixelMagic wrote in post #16007416
Lightroom - All other camera settings are ignored so if your raw files are appearing darker in Lightroom it means that you probably have a setting like Auto Lighting Optimizer enabled in your camera.

It only seems to do it with skin tones

theantiquetiger wrote in post #16007434
It only seems to do it with skin tones

Different picture styles effect color relationships. Landscape lends a blue bias for example. Lr can't read these styles, it takes the raw data and interprets it in it's own way, using the Adobe Standard as a default profile. The only image specific setting that Lr reads and renders is white balance. You can try using different camera profiles in Lr to see what works best, as well as trying a custom profile with a tool like the Color Checker Passport.

theantiquetiger wrote in post #16007390
so convert to tiff before loading to LR?

No. Create a set of default settings for LR that will more closely approximate what you require in the final image.

Find a representative image, not over or under-exposed, a decent range from blacks to whites, with a good selection of clours. Tweak the LR 'Basic', 'Detail' and 'Camera Calibration' settings in the 'Develop' module until the image looks its best. Then, still in the 'Develop' module, hold the 'Alt' key. You'll see the button in the bottom right change from 'Reset' to 'Set Default...'. Press that button and the settings you've chosen will be applied to every new image. There are options to have a different default for different cameras and ISO values - so you may have to do it a few times, or change those options in Edit | Preferences | Presets.

hollis_f wrote in post #16008270
No. Create a set of default settings for LR that will more closely approximate what you require in the final image.

Find a representative image, not over or under-exposed, a decent range from blacks to whites, with a good selection of clours. Tweak the LR 'Basic', 'Detail' and 'Camera Calibration' settings in the 'Develop' module until the image looks its best. Then, still in the 'Develop' module, hold the 'Alt' key. You'll see the button in the bottom right change from 'Reset' to 'Set Default...'. Press that button and the settings you've chosen will be applied to every new image. There are options to have a different default for different cameras and ISO values - so you may have to do it a few times, or change those options in Edit | Preferences | Presets.

That's similar to what I do. One of the really nice things about Lightroom is when I shoot raw (which is almost always), I could care less about picture style defaults in the camera, because I can create as many of my own in Lightroom as I want. For example, some of the presets I have are sports (daytime, nighttime and indoors), landscape, candid, street, various monochrome, and quite a few more. And I have those (or some subset) for my 5D, 40D and P&S cameras. When I import my raw files into Lightroom, I have it apply the appropriate preset, and now, depending on the picture, often all I have left to do is crop, possibly apply a white balance setting, and make a few minor tweaks.

So, I do understand why some people always use the Canon software for the initial RAW conversion, but for me, I consider the proprietary information that the Adobe software can't read is pretty insignificant.

As a "reference" between DPP and Lightroom, it could be helpful to experiment with your Picture Styles (if you are working with Raw).

For example, I have my cameras set to the Neutral Picture Style (some prefer Faithful) and I have my Contrast and Saturation dialed all the way back to -4. So, this is what gets "viewed" in DPP when I open/view a Raw file. I find that these settings are fairly close to the Lightroom/Camera Raw defaults (the Adobe Standard profile). Using these settings can avoid the kind of confusion you are having, and of course you can change around the Picture Style settings in DPP as well as the camera profile settings in Lightroom.

Thanks for this thread. When developing my new 7D raw files tonight, they looked underexposed and my black leather couch and loveseat had the purple fringe, and on my outside shots, any shadows were purple fringed too. Increasing the black level a couple of notches under Detail fixed it, then I saved it as Default. My first LR expedition!

? ?
Detail is Sharpening (Amount, Radius, Detail, Mask) and Noise Reduction (Luminance: Amount, Detail, Contrast and Color: Amount, Detail). Nothing there to do with black point.
And if you saved the settings as a new default, you should keep in mind that any default is only a starting point and other images may need other settings.

Addendum: For purple fringing there are tools in the Lens Correction section; CA Removal and Fringe Removal.

tzalman wrote in post #16044401
? ?
Detail is Sharpening (Amount, Radius, Detail, Mask) and Noise Reduction (Luminance: Amount, Detail, Contrast and Color: Amount, Detail). Nothing there to do with black point.
And if you saved the settings as a new default, you should keep in mind that any default is only a starting point and other images may need other settings.

Addendum: For purple fringing there are tools in the Lens Correction section; CA Removal and Fringe Removal.

.............. I have a black......... of course I'm a complete newb to this. Ver 5.

ETA: Oop's. It's under Basic.

tzalman wrote in post #16044401
? ?
Detail is Sharpening (Amount, Radius, Detail, Mask) and Noise Reduction (Luminance: Amount, Detail, Contrast and Color: Amount, Detail). Nothing there to do with black point.
And if you saved the settings as a new default, you should keep in mind that any default is only a starting point and other images may need other settings.

Addendum: For purple fringing there are tools in the Lens Correction section; CA Removal and Fringe Removal.

for some weird reason the CA removal does nothing on my images. The fringe removal tool however does a fantastic job.

boerewors wrote in post #16044849
for some weird reason the CA removal does nothing on my images. The fringe removal tool however does a fantastic job.

Do you actually have any CA on your images prior to using it?