Light Weight Battery for Speedlights...?

Was about to order a couple of them...wish I had done so a week ago...wow...supply and demand I suppose.

so... nobody cares or noticed the price jumped 90%?

ChrisAdval wrote in post #16064757
so... nobody cares or noticed the price jumped 90%?

A) there is nothing we can do about it but not purchase.
B) Sellers can set the price to whatever they want. If appears that the seller realized they were selling it at too low a price. (Maybe the supplier contacted them and complained.)

I used the battery at a wedding today.
Lasted all day and capacity indicator lights went from 3 to 2. A lot of the shooting was outside so the power was up on the speedlite. That's a good result.

What is not good, is that the cable kept pulling out of the socket on the battery. the coiling is too string and the fit is too loose. Only that that will make this workable is finding a way to keep the cable connected.

dmward wrote in post #16079557
What is not good, is that the cable kept pulling out of the socket on the battery. the coiling is too string and the fit is too loose. Only that that will make this workable is finding a way to keep the cable connected.

I encountered this same problem. At the last event the cable came loose and I didn't even notice. I'm going to use a velcro cable tie and cinch it to the din plug. When in use, I'll just loop the tie to the strap ring. Hope this works.

But have to admit... the PB3000 kick arse over any AA battery packs.

EmaginePixel wrote in post #16079817
I encountered this same problem. At the last event the cable came loose and I didn't even notice. I'm going to use a velcro cable tie and cinch it to the din plug. When in use, I'll just loop the tie to the strap ring. Hope this works.

But have to admit... the PB3000 kick arse over any AA battery packs.

Velcro is a good solution.
I agree that the battery is a nice replacement for the battery packs.
The pull out problem would be solved if there were a locking system ala Cheetah/Godox battery. Or, a longer cable.

dmward wrote in post #16080221
Velcro is a good solution.
I agree that the battery is a nice replacement for the battery packs.
The pull out problem would be solved if there were a locking system ala Cheetah/Godox battery. Or, a longer cable.

don't forget the Turbo 3 as the first one !

even though,
I would not recommend using Turbo 3 as there are several cheaper
and better alternatives battery pack on the market

I've been using eneloop rechargeable batteries. They are lightweight NiMH batteries and last a long time. I bought a bunch of them in Costco and take plenty of them along with me whenever I am on a job.

Jim

dmward wrote in post #16079557
...
What is not good, is that the cable kept pulling out of the socket on the battery. the coiling is too string and the fit is too loose. Only that that will make this workable is finding a way to keep the cable connected.

The power cable supplied with the PB-3000 is, indeed, too short. Depending upon how much length you need, a Quantum (or Paramount) cable might be worth considering. I've been using a Quantum CKE cable (Nikon compatible) with my PB-3000 without issue. The Quantum cable is longer than the Sky Eagle cable (expands to 6-feet) and the coils are not nearly as stiff.

Interestingly (and disappointingly, as well) the Quantum QT49 10-foot extension cable does not work with the PB-3000. When the extension is introduced between the power pack and the flash cable, the LEDs on the pack will extinguish briefly when the flash is fired but recycling time is not improved (compared to using the four interna Eneloops alone).

tetrode wrote in post #16080979
The power cable supplied with the PB-3000 is, indeed, too short. Depending upon how much length you need, a Quantum (or Paramount) cable might be worth considering. I've been using a Quantum CKE cable (Nikon compatible) with my PB-3000 without issue. The Quantum cable is longer than the Sky Eagle cable (expands to 6-feet) and the coils are not nearly as stiff.

Interestingly (and disappointingly, as well) the Quantum QT49 10-foot extension cable does not work with the PB-3000. When the extension is introduced between the power pack and the flash cable, the LEDs on the pack will extinguish briefly when the flash is fired but recycling time is not improved (compared to using the four interna Eneloops alone).

That's a good suggestion.
The flimsy little cable that's on the Pixel etc. packs was always a weak point in my mind. Now I wish there were a way to plug them into the PB-3000.

dmward wrote in post #16081188
That's a good suggestion.
The flimsy little cable that's on the Pixel etc. packs was always a weak point in my mind. Now I wish there were a way to plug them into the PB-3000.

David: If you're feeling brave-ish you could always cut the (typically-Pixel lightweight) cable off a TD-381, pop a DIN 45326 jack on the end and then it'll fit your PB-3000. It's only 3 solder connections after all - oh, and the loss of the Pixel pack

Phil,
Now you've got me wondering where I put the pack that failed. Or was it two? Anyway, it was cheaper to just buy additional packs considering the $20 plus to ship them back and Pixel's reluctance to accept that the packs were bad.

Anyway, clipping the cable(s) off those would be no loose. Then again, its been so long since I soldered anything that I'd probably end up with a pound of solder on the joints.

It might be possible to put the connector where the cable comes out of the pack if someone wanted to make the pack usable after detaching the cable.

First I'll see how the Paramount cable, that Dave suggested, works.

David: Ooops, I genuinely thought you were leg-pulling.
Yes, perfectly easy to put a socket on the stub cable cut off outside the Pixel pack if you wanted - just remember to leave sufficient length of cable to be able to retract the socket case for soldering up. The Lumberg cable-mount socket is the KV81. There are other makes - I just liked the screw-together aspect of the Lumbergs for what I originally started doing (making an extension lead).

For those not familiar with this type of connector - be warned that there are TWO configurations of 8 pin DIN circular socket. One has all the connections in a circle (no use for what we want) while the other has pin 8 slightly inset from the circle. Don't get the wrong ones, you want DIN 45326 plugs/sockets with the inset pin 8. Although we only use 3 pins, the sockets on proprietary power packs (8 pin) and their mating jacks require that we use 8 pin connectors for cross-brand compatibility.

Pound of solder? Your shoulders, mate, not mine.

Phil,
I started out tongue-in-cheek, then when reading our post realized that I could, with lots of practice to renew my soldering skills, do as you're suggesting to have a springy cable. That would at least make the PB3000 a little more useful.

I put my battery pack in my left back (hip) pocket. I'm about 6'1" so the cable has to stretch from my rump to my face. With the springy Pixel cables I can even stretch my arms above my head and all is well.
Sunday the cable came unplugged at least 6 times during the day. That was just too much of a pain.

If I could gain access to someone at the manufacturer with some authority I'd strongly suggest that they lengthen the cable and make it more springy.

Forget the Din extension. Wouldn't it be easier to just fabricate an extension cable (female to male) of the 3 pin connection into the speedlite? Where's Lon (flashzebra) or Ed (Cheetahstand)?