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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 15 Jun 2013 (Saturday) 12:08
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Need an indoor lens for full frame

 
RickRandhawa
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Location: Chandler, AZ
     
Jun 15, 2013 12:08 |  #1

I'd like a good lens I can use in the office to take pictures of employees and events we have going on (birthday parties, foosball tournaments, etc).

Don't want to have to try and setup lights or anything like that. It's pretty well lit indoors anyways (like grocery store brightness).

24-70MKII, 35L, or something else?

Thanks in advance.


6D l 24-70L II l 85L II l 70-200/4L IS

  
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Craign
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Jun 15, 2013 12:33 |  #2

Use your 24-105
1. To determine if 24 to 35mm is wide enough.
2. At f/4 and what ISO is needed to get the proper exposure.

Example: If ISO 12800 is needed at f/4, then you could use ISO 6400 at f/2.8, ISO 3200 at f/2 or ISO 1600 at f/1.4

This method is probably more accurate than anyone guessing what lens you might need. At least you can experiment under YOUR real world conditions. This is how I could determine flash would be required in my home at f/2.8 so I got a 24-105 f/4 instead of a 17-55 f/2.8 or a 24-70 f/2.8 lens.

I hope this makes sense to you.

Note: DOF is thin at f/1.4 if you are thinking about a really fast lens.


Canon 7D Mark II w/Canon BG-E16 Battery Grip; Canon EOS 50D w/Canon Battery Grip; Canon SL1; Tokina 12mm - 24mm f/4 PRO DX II; Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS; Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS; Canon 70-300mm f/4-5.6L IS; Sigma 85mm f/1.4 EX DG HSM; Canon EF 300mm f/4L IS; Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM; Canon Extender EF 1.4x II; Canon Extender EF 2x II; Canon Speedlite 430EX II Flash
Image Editing Okay

  
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amfoto1
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Jun 15, 2013 12:42 |  #3

Just get a good flash. Modern ETTL flash are dead simple to use.

Best results with flash often can be gotten by bouncing it off a low ceiling or wall (if walls or ceiling are neutral white) or...

Get a flash bracket to move the flash up and to the left, along with an off-camera shoe cord to connect the flash to the camera. This can be used directly (maybe with a diffusion panel, if you prefer), and will minimize redeye and ugly shadows (that tend to be worse if using the flash in the camera's hot shoe).


Alan Myers (external link) "Walk softly and carry a big lens."
5DII, 7DII(x2), 7D(x2) & other cameras. 10-22mm, Tokina 12-24/4, 20/2.8, TS 24/3.5L, 24-70/2.8L, 28/1.8, 28-135 IS (x2), TS 45/2.8, 50/1.4, Tamron 60/2.0, 70-200/4L IS, 70-200/2.8 IS, 85/1.8, Tamron 90/2.5 Macro, 100/2.8 USM, 100-400L II, 135/2L, 180/3.5L, 300/4L IS (x2), 300/2.8L IS, 500/4L IS, EF 1.4X II, EF 2X II. Flashes, studio strobes & various access. - FLICKR (external link) - ZENFOLIO (external link)

  
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RickRandhawa
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Jun 15, 2013 13:02 |  #4

craign-Theres about 25 employees right, and will be around 50 soon, didn't think about the fact that dof would be pretty thin in the wider apertures, it's been a while since I've owned a camera. :)

amfoto- it's not really "dark" in the office where flash would be necessary...think of like the lighting you'd see in a grocery store or something. Big wide open space, high ceilings, white lights. Kinda more looking for the "best lens" as far as IQ goes for those types of situations.

I've edited my first post.


6D l 24-70L II l 85L II l 70-200/4L IS

  
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DocFrankenstein
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Jun 15, 2013 14:02 |  #5

For events and shooting more than 1 person at a time, you should be fine with 24-105. Just get a flash and bounce it. At 2.8 the DOF is too thin.


National Sarcasm Society. Like we need your support.

  
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gonzogolf
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Jun 15, 2013 14:04 |  #6

RickRandhawa wrote in post #16033709 (external link)
craign-Theres about 25 employees right, and will be around 50 soon, didn't think about the fact that dof would be pretty thin in the wider apertures, it's been a while since I've owned a camera. :)

amfoto- it's not really "dark" in the office where flash would be necessary...think of like the lighting you'd see in a grocery store or something. Big wide open space, high ceilings, white lights. Kinda more looking for the "best lens" as far as IQ goes for those types of situations.

I've edited my first post.

Sufficient light isnt good light. Flash is more about getting the light where you want rather than how much you need. Get a flash to go along with whatever lens you select.




  
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JeffreyG
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Jun 15, 2013 14:14 |  #7

Use the 24-105, and when you are in a situation where you cannot bounce the flash and fill the entire space with light, learn to drag the shutter and blend the flash with ambient.

Also get a set of gels so that you can adjust the flash color temperature to match ambient.


My personal stuff:http://www.flickr.com/​photos/jngirbach/sets/ (external link)
I use a Canon 5DIII and a Sony A7rIII

  
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TabulaVicious
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Location: Minneapolis, MN
     
Jun 15, 2013 15:43 |  #8

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned it so far, but I'm extremely pleased with the 50L. Probably worth selling the 24-105L over. If you wanted that 105mm reach, you could just crop the photo and still have a sharper image.


6D | 50D | 35-80 Macro | 16-35 f/2.8L II | 50 f/1.2L | 85 f/1.2L II | 100-400L | 580EX II | 580EX II

  
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amfoto1
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Jun 15, 2013 15:57 |  #9

If it's like most offices... fluourescent lighting, which really sucks for photography... ugly greenish yellow color and it cycles on and off, so you will have a lot of missed exposures, too. It's even worse if you mix it with outdoor light and/or flash.

Buy a flash.

High ceilings and big spaces... forget bouncing the flash. So also get a flash bracket and an off-camera shoe cord. (There are cheap brackets and cords on eBay, if you don't want to spend very much.) These allow you to use direct flash and get nice looking images. Optionally, get a diffuser to use on the flash.

Or reposition your subjects closer to windows and use natural windowlight. If you combine flash with windowlight, you'll need to put a colored gel on the flash so that it's color is better matched with the windowlight. Otherwise the mixed color temps can be a problem.

But, basically, you don't need a lens. You need a flash.

270EX is quite small, mostly automatic modes only, might be sufficient for your purposes. 320EX is a little lbigger, has a few more controls for the user and also has a continuous light if you want to shoot video with it too. Canon 430EX II is compact, reasonably affordable, but still pretty powerful and flexible. Now discontinued but still available - 580EX II is bigger, a bit more powerful and more expensive, and gives you a lot of controls, if needed. 600EX RT is probably way more than you need, powerful and ideal for multi-flash setup and wireless off-camera flash contro... it's also quite pricey. (430EX/420EX and 580EX/550EX all also can be used wirelessly off-camera, but use an older near-IR-light form of communication - rather than radio control - that requires line-of-sight and limits setups.)


Alan Myers (external link) "Walk softly and carry a big lens."
5DII, 7DII(x2), 7D(x2) & other cameras. 10-22mm, Tokina 12-24/4, 20/2.8, TS 24/3.5L, 24-70/2.8L, 28/1.8, 28-135 IS (x2), TS 45/2.8, 50/1.4, Tamron 60/2.0, 70-200/4L IS, 70-200/2.8 IS, 85/1.8, Tamron 90/2.5 Macro, 100/2.8 USM, 100-400L II, 135/2L, 180/3.5L, 300/4L IS (x2), 300/2.8L IS, 500/4L IS, EF 1.4X II, EF 2X II. Flashes, studio strobes & various access. - FLICKR (external link) - ZENFOLIO (external link)

  
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TabulaVicious
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Location: Minneapolis, MN
     
Jun 15, 2013 17:58 as a reply to  @ amfoto1's post |  #10

If I was buying a flash, I wouldn't get anything less than the 430EX or EXII. The 270EX has a bounce capability but it's barely powerful enough to make use of it.


6D | 50D | 35-80 Macro | 16-35 f/2.8L II | 50 f/1.2L | 85 f/1.2L II | 100-400L | 580EX II | 580EX II

  
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Need an indoor lens for full frame
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